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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice shot squatch! Really shows how wonderfully jagged the Fringe is!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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i know yer out there
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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About the name, I've got to believe it was sort of generic, about climbers
being part of the lunatic fringe of society and all,
but there also was a comedy group in England which included Peter Cooke
and Dudley Moore, I believe.
They may well have been part of Barry's cultural background. Maybe too
obscure?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Sep 17, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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There will be a few people on this climb in the week ahead I imagine.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
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The ever-lovin' bump...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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The crack was fringed the way it broke to form; Barry was witty and funny; ergo the name.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 26, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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To the OP from way back, two words, Waverly Wafer.
I overheard a brief mention that some folks solo Waverly.
That seems so far out there!
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Feb 26, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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thought it'd be appropriate to post this photo again....
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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the original response is right i think - " it's 10c for 3 feet " - but, for that 3 it is 10c
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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No wonder Werner was able to solo it. look at them new fangled cheater shoes
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Waverly Wafer is a great solo. I've done it.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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He is currently sans computer for a while.
All will be revealed in his own words when he gets the inclination to get to the library in town.
Hi, Selfish Man! Hope to meet you someday.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Feb 27, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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FYI - You can rap this route safely with one 70m rope. Just rap onto the bushy ledge to the right of the crack, pull your rope and let it fall to the ground, then walk off of the ledge to the right and back to the base of the climb where your rope will be waiting for you.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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It's a great one - steep jamming for the duration, all hand and finger sizes, no fixed pro. Super clean. Yosemite at its best.
Five and Dime is a harder version of a classic straight in with a little thin hand shite at the bottom. The other two classic Barry Bates routes are Vanishing Point and Independence Center. Vanishing Point probably has the hardest crux of all 4, Five and Dime is the most strenuous/intimidating, and Lunatic F. is the best - IMO. All were kind of funky in the old shoes and junk nuts.
JL
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Remember looking up at "Lunatic Fringe" sometime in 1973 and seeing an 1.5" piton at the first 11/4" crux off the little ledge. At that time there were also still munge hummocks around and in the crack. So did Barry originally lead the route with a hammer and pins? And did he clean it on the lead as he climbed it? Or were there some pins in the crack left over from some previous anonymous aid-practice ascent? I remember hearing somewhere or other that Barry climbed the route on site with a hammer and a rack of pins and only used maybe three or four of them. Like the Fog & Mist of some forgotten war!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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Got these pics of a stranger on Saturday while waiting to rap - good send, smooth as silk. Talking to him at the chains, turns out to be one of the guys from the Half Dome, Big Backpack Strategy TR.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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Send him an email. Barry posts here.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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All I can tell you about it is that I only did it once, in 1986. My ex-wife -- who, for the record, I do not get along with, at all -- hiked it. I counted, she used a total of six pieces of pro. It seemed significantly easier than a lot of Valley 10d's.
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