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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 31, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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One day I was out on the sand cruising past Echo T towards More Monkey and I crossed paths with Dan Michael. I was just walking, but he was alone, "wandering the desert" and he looked pretty pumped up, not spaced out, but really juiced.
I had done some big routes with Dan and we had road tripped together, so I knew him pretty good. He'd clearly swallowed some sort of goose and a big one at that, because I could see this sideways grin, while huge amounts of light streamed from his eyes and physically, although checking in at a mere 135 pounds, he was all pumped up like a bodybuilder ready to throw down in Pumping Iron.
"All right, Dan, out with it buddy, WHAT DID YOU DO?"
He’d just solo’d Figures on a Landscape, which back then, maybe 1981, was some pretty jaunty stuff. Heck even now that has to rate as a rarely soloed item, if done at all.
Yah, the girl's name was Louise Shepard, a super accomplished Australian Lass and I had seen her looking stunningly fetching, wearing high heels around Camp 4, nearly stilettos really…
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cowpoke
climber
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Oct 31, 2007 - 10:56am PT
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Love the TR and pics, Chiloe! Especially the shots of Dave on the sharp end (and, boy, it looks sharp!).
Great shots of Tarbuster too (sans lid).
Thinking about this route has always made my palms sweat and even more so now...
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mpandy
Trad climber
Jackson Hole, WY
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Oct 31, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
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In 1991, my buddy and I finally got the courage to climb Figures. After hiking out there, we were bummed to realize we were second in line - arriving right when the follower was putting on his shoes.
The first bolt is up and right quite a ways - and depending on where the follower starts there can be some swing potential. So the follower steps on the rock, makes two moves, and promptly falls. As he is swinging to the right... WHAM.... his foot catches a random edge and he promptly breaks his ankle. A bad break - literally stepping off the ground.
Helicopters, litters, and the entire rescue shannagins commence.
Needless to say we didn't climb the route that day.
14 years later we finally got the courage and circumstances to do it again.....
It was.... most definitely.... worth the wait.
Here's my buddy starting the traverse....
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Oct 31, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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"just before he appeared in the horrific A Clockwork Orange."
What's up with that?! ACO is a classic, dude. 4 Oscar nominations. There are some really central themes to the movie, such as exploring the definition of "goodness". Also it really goes at length against behavioral psychology and behavior modification. Not to mention the cinematography, dialog, etc.
The film stayed very true to the book, btw. The film is a requirement in most psych programs at universities...
You must be more into things like Cliffhanger? Bloodsport, etc? Usually the only peeps who don't care for the movie are chicks - mainly due to the rape scene, or people who don't appreciate good movies and go more for the "blockbuster hits".
How can you go wrong with a film with quotes like the following?
"Initiative comes to thems that wait."
"We were all feeling a bit shagged and fagged and fashed, it being a night of no small expenditure."
"What you got back home, little sister, to play your fuzzy warbles on? I bet you got, say, pitiful, portable picnic players. Come with uncle and hear all proper! Hear angels' trumpets and devils' trombones. You are invited! "
"Female Psychaitrist: Yes, just tell me the first thing that comes to your mind.
Alex: Cabbages, knickers, It hasn't got A BEAK!
Female Psychaitrist: Good.
[Changes slides to a man climbing into a naked woman's bedroom]
Female Psychaitrist: "What do you want?"
Alex: No time for the ol' in-out, love. I've just come to read the meter! "
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 31, 2007 - 02:45pm PT
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Yup,
And cross linking threads a bit with the Jolly Roger TR,
Clockwork is one of Erik's favorite films.
We used to buzz around in Lou's Bimmer on the way to The Needles or wherever, and "E" would recite Malcom's passages from the masterpiece...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 31, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
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Happy Halloween Taco-heads,
File under: Live through this.
So in the dark ages of the early nineties when I was an impressionable and overly enthusiastic teenager I went up on figures with two teachers from the town where I grew up--Tony Condon (El Roble Middle School) and Robs Muir (Claremont High). Robs leads the first, Tony comes up, and I wait to be the third. Tony then belays Robs to the third and brings me over. Bridwell is there with a client, coming up fast beneath me, smoking while on lead, and I have to keep shuffling my feet to keep ahead of his leathered meat hooks.
Now, somewhere in there Tony apparently told me to plug on up the second pitch, on lead, clipping into Robs' draws as I went. I missed all of that and did the whole second pitch sans-bolts. I remember a high step/friction move that had me completely frozen and with the wind blowing I couldn't hear any of the yells about downclimbing and clipping a bolt at some point.
Anyhow, my dad who was at the base nearly wore a groove in the sand pacing back and forth and when we finally summited Bridwell says something like, "Nice going kid. Fall up there and you're a gonner for sure." I felt like I had arrived.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 31, 2007 - 03:40pm PT
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Of course, Anders is right, the movie title was Figures In a Landscape, but the slight change of preposition seemed to fit this climb to a tee. It seems that I had been to a series of old Malcolm McDowell movies shortly before doing FOAL.
One of those movies O Lucky Man (I think) involved a particularly disturbing scene in an secret - experimental "hospital" where McDowell's character discovers a person who has had his head grafted onto a pigs body.
As for ACO, it is (like most of Stanley Kubrick's movies) a classic -- a masterpiece of cinematography, thematic material, dialog and musical score. Dr. Strangelove remains my favorite Kubrick film, still poignant after all these years.
Thanks to Chiloe for the great post and photos.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oct 31, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
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Beautiful, awesome thread, it really has blossomed. Randy, I thoroughly enjoyed your (retroactively)humble rendition. That is about as close to the whole truth as is humanly possible (no sarcasm intended!).
Someone mentioned a fall taken on the FA, my memory is that no falls were taken by any of us at any time. Although, if Craig and I had pulled Randy off during his moments of aid that would have been REALLY NASTY. Nobody wants to see one of their best friends get hurt even if the friend is a bit cocky!
The last time I did the route was with Tom Sherman. In my haste on the crux section I pitched and took the big swinger! I had figured out my mistake a millisecond before falling and was able to pull it a few minutes later. My sequence involved a key backstep to reach the ledge. 10b my ass!
I have always been ultra proud of everyone's efforts on the three days involved on the FA; Randy, Spencer, Craig and myself.
Those were the days.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2007 - 04:30pm PT
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A Clockwork Orange was a good movie, but still horrific. Most of Kubrick's movies were, shall we say, thought provoking.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 31, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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I get a sort of sinking feeling when I read some of this bickering from guys who I always thought were close friends. I think it's a good thing to argue sometimes but I wonder if any route is worth publically hound-dogging your old partners. I suspect Craig must have gotten his feelings hurt deeply over what in everyone's mind is a So Cal classic. For whatever my opinion's worth, I think Crang's go-for-broke lead of Hyperion (11+) with the old style hexes, back in about 1895, made his work on Figures seem like light lifting indeed. Craig always downplays that Hyperion lead but we were all in awe.
So Craig you have a lot to be proud of no matter what happened on Figures.
And by the way, what the hell is going on with that pic of Dave Evans where he's all dinged up and looks like he had a head wound????
JL
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 31, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
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Craig, it is funny how people can read the same thing and come away with completely different ideas of what someone is saying. If it isn't clear that I have regrets about how the whole FA thing transpired, then perhaps you should re-read my posts.
It is sad to hear that you still harbor such deep resentments. As we approach the 30th aniversary of the FA it would have been nice to make amends.
We all have our own recollection of events (such is nature of memory). But we move beyond mere contradictory memories when we purport to know the experiences and thoughts of another person.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 31, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
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Great tales mates! I really miss those days and all of you guys! By the way where is Mooney? (Doug Munoz)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 31, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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Credit where credit is due. As a sometime guidebook writer and contributor, and creator of a few routes, it seems to me that some of this could be avoided if writers provided more information about how new routes are established, and by whom. This would also help keep better track of our stories and history.
The classic example of this is the first ascent of Broad Peak in the Karakoram, in 1957. It's often credited to Wintersteller and Schmuck, simply because they got to the summit a few hours ahead of Diemberger and Buhl. Undoubtedly Wintersteller and Schmuck were the stronger pair, but the four climbed the mountain as a team. The first ascent of the Nose of El Capitan is a parallel example, but there the history of all those who contributed is noted, even though only three got to the top.
The lilac (1986) Vogel guide says: "Figures on a Landscape 5.10b * FA: Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, November 1978. (Belay bolts were drilled off a hook.)"
There seems to be more to the story than that. Others contributed to the creation of the route, even if they didn't participate in the first complete ascent. Luckily many routes are done by two or three climbers, and no more need be said. It would be impossible to note everyone in the peanut gallery as a climb is done. But it seems to me that there should be room for guidebooks to note significant contributors to new routes, at least where it may be of any importance to the people involved, or the climbing world. It's quite arbitrary that only those who get to the top seem to get credit.
Alternately, guidebooks should include a balanced history or chronology, so that these things are clear.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
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Interesting observations there Anders,
Sometimes the attribution of that first complete ascent of a thing is but a crude approximation of the key personnel involved in the total effort.
Craig Man,
While in the end it is for you and you only to decide if the record has been set straight regarding your contribution to this route in particular, I think Randy has really aired out a lot of the stuff that bugged you guys at the time and he has stepped forth with a good deal of humility.
Largo was right about your strengths (not to say this is even at issue here), and all of us who were at the Josh reunion are so stoked to see so many of us still passionately invested. It's great have you here on the forum. That was a cool gesture you made in handing out the small crystals at KP’s place.
Great routes and great times, they still yield so much excitement to this day, like a gift to climbers who love to wander upward out there.
Long live the rapture of the steep and the friendships forged!
Cheers,
Roy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
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Droogs in a Still Life perhaps?!?!
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
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Back in the day I heard that the belay was moved because the original first belay was placed in hollow rock.
Whenever I'd go out to do Figures, it was either too cold or someone was on it.
Finally one day we decided Today is the day, no matter what.
The 50 MPH gusts definitely added to the adventure. No one else on it that day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
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That belay in the potentially holow flake notion was part of the lore for sure and added weight to the idea of moving to the right. For me, at the time it was primarliy about clipping the old belay when I got to it, not hanging, then proceding clean through to first bolt of the original second pitch, where I doubled things up by adding the bolt, creating a free stance belay, thereby adding the option to lengthen pitch one, circa 87/88'.
I had gained no approval from the FA guys about actually pulling the original belay, so I just left it in place. I waited for that act to transpire by appropriate consensus, because deleting the hanging stance really changed the option range and subjective experience of the pitches. The hanging belay was sort of cool and elevated the atmosphere of the route; it added to the mystique.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 31, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
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Well the pathetic truth comes out. Lookinsketchy, how can you find the guts and guile to get up in the morning? How can you face this truth and still keep your head up?
I mean, after all, no Grant, no Franklin not even a Hamilton. You sir, you cad you, used a ONE dollar bill! Oh the horror, utter heinousity of it all.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 31, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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Well, gosh, so long as everyone is coming clean... I was not much of a 5.10 leader when I first got on this route. I took a pretty decent wipper on the second (now first?) pitch, got sketched, and my much more solid partner finished the lead. I feel a lot better now that I got that off my chest.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Oct 31, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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Craig, I just want to clarify; I don't remember who was there 30 years ago when the purported event occurred.
John, I also do think most of this bantering is really more about Craig and Randy (and others) reliving the amazing time and experience. Hopefully none of us harbors any real bad feelings. It is a new-age way for Craig and Randy to re-bond.
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