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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Pete, people climbing A5 all the time? Oh yeah, Gobs of people crowed the reticent, Jolly Roger, PSD, Surgeon General, Atlantis, Bloc Party, Sheep Ranch, Sea, Koas, Scorched Earth, and the many many other A4+ A5 routes. I mean, you better take a number, those things are PACKED!
Let me go find that response, I am curious!
Chris Says "Where, oh, where have all the Randy Leavitts gone?!" Those are a dead and dying breed. Few and far between, one of the best climbers ever, IMHO... But yeah, sure, I do agree with his response, but f*#k it, aid climbing, wailing in pins, beaks, hooking and the likes is fun. And I do all these things because they are fun.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Anybody in touch with Chris these days?
I want to interview him for the Kor doc.
Shoot me an email.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Mar 28, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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Pointed at Russ's link,
All the world superpowers have small dicks.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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Pointed at Russ's link,
What's going on in Bolivia anyway??
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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Nothing doable is hard
if it was humans couldn't do it
oooh i'm a hardman.. yer gonna die.. i'm more special than u r.. want a cookie?
yipeee
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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Anyone who says that "anyone out of shape" can lead aid has never spent a lot of time in his top step on awkward aid pitches.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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Yeah but the step below works for my outta shape ass....
Being drunk and outta shape sitting on the couch and gettin ur ass up there is way more hardcorp and adventurous than that Honnold kid who is training 24/7 ...
Of course he can do it in a couple hours. lets see how he does after 10 years off climbing and drinking bear and shizz..I'll bet aiding is harder for him then then breaking the speed record was.. plus he will have all that old baggage telling how good he used to be and slamming him facefirst as to the fact that he aint never gonna be that good again
Old fat drunk lazy aid climbers are the real deal
semper farcissimus
Blue camalot freaks need not respond
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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This summer I was furiously failing on a route in Rifle that I had done easily many years ago. A guy dogging on a bolt near the one I was hanging from said, “Aren’t you the Aid Rant guy?” And I said, “Maybe.” And then we laughed about how silly aid climbers are. We would have high-fived, but there were two routes between us, so we could barely touch.
tongue in cheek about free climbing within the justification of the tongue in cheek aid rant leads to suspicion of anything and everything in the article being more trolling. As it should be. Meta is often the sign of a good writer, or at least a good mind.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 31, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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This thread is funny
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Said about free climbing long ago: "enough of this hiking, let's get to the climbing"
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jstan
climber
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I once did a climb in Yosemite. Ugh! My partner led an aid move up one of those expanding
flakes in which each pin falls out as you place the next. I never looked at the guide so I have no
idea as to the difficulty.
Getting past the flake took all day. This was intriguing so later on I went back and soloed it.
Took an hour. You had to concentrate on getting minimum leveraging on each pin. Just stick
them in by hand and use hero loops. The lower pin will roll and still bear weight as you move to
the upper.
Not being an aid climber I can say little about the activity. I will say this. If I were 100 feet out
on a string of hooks I would want to have done a huge amount of that kind of climbing.
Experience is the key.
That may be why we have aid climbers all over the place.
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WBraun
climber
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aid climbing = stick em in and step/stand up ......
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Really dicey hooking requires a lot of body english and good footwork.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 10, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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The best part of this is the commentary by Jenny Piccolo
[quote]I loved this video!!! Chris took me up the East Buttress of El Cap a ways back and we ran into Singer at the top of the 9 hour ascent! It was the greatest experience of my life I wrote a book and dedicated two chapters to him! Called, Happy Days Healthy Living, I am Cathy Silvers…Jenny Piccolo of Happy Days TV series and I am an expert crack climber thanks to Chris Kalous! Chris is the BOMB!!! How do I reach Chris? Does he have a website or email or number…Peace, Cathy http://www.thehealthylivingshow.com[/quote]
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 10, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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...when used to cover up the worn through sheath on your lead rope...
...10 pitches up...
...beads of sweat on your forehead..
...as you get close...
...hoping it doesn't ...
.....knowing it won't...
...right?, but it looks so freaky thin running up and beyond your sight...
...part before...
....you get to skip...
...the jugs above it!
;-)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 10, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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Though the post is old news, it may be helpful to drink booze to the point where its logic appears reasonable...
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