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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Oct 23, 2007 - 07:56pm PT
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I agree there is a resemblance with Johnny Dawes. But the cadet is Eric Walker who in 1993 was the Cadet in Charge (CIC) of the USMA Mountaineering Club. On that day he led the last pitch of Square Meal after Rich Romano led the first two pitches. Eric is now a Major in the Army Special Forces. He still climbs when he gets a chance. I know Eric will attest to the fact that climbing in the Gunks with people like Richie contributed greatly to his development as a leader.
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jstan
climber
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Oct 23, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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Yeah. I got to do only one climb with Rich. I missed out. One heck of a leader.
You just look at such a leader and you know two things.
1. They know where they are going.
2. They are damn well going to get there.
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Oct 23, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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ground up onsight Richie is one of the best!
Here's Rich taking another lap on Project X
Hit It!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Oct 23, 2007 - 09:36pm PT
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Like I said before...Richie is one of kind. The reunion was a chance for all of us to reconnect and appreciate each other again.
My years in the Gunks was like being in a commune...we climbed, ate, talked climbing/life and sometime slept together (in the same house).
It was such a great sight to see the cliffs on a Friday evening and the anticipation of seeing who was going to be at the Uberfall was almost too much at times.
It really was wonderful.
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drzipxyz
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 24, 2007 - 09:37am PT
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Richie is the greatest in my book if Kevin was the Mayor Rich is the unsung King of the Gunks. To my knowledge no one has spent as much time all over the area developing new routes on outlying cliffs.
I loved that he called Millbrook the Bank and would say, Let's go to the Bank snd make a few withdrawels".
It has been my pure pleasure to climb with him the last 34 years. We have shared many amazing times and the joy of having our own unique names and language for everyday things
Then we used to call half and half; 50/50 or arf and arf and now he says when pouring; "I'll need to take an extra Lipitor today".
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2007 - 10:44am PT
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Absolutely everything said about Rich Romano is true---and more. No one has kept the faith as he has. With a resume of bold ground-up ascents stretching back thirty years or so, he is probably the most prolific Eastern climber ever, especially in the realm of 5.10 and above.
His incredible energy for new routes and for exploring remote areas is matched only by a complete lack of interest in self-promotion. There are very few climbers who have achieved anything resembling his output of hard new routes who have flown so completely under the climbing community's radar.
Richie recently turned 50, which (at least from my perspective) puts him at the youngest end of the "newly old" spectrum. He will tell you that injuries and other responsibilities and interests are slowing him down (he is a fine classical guitarist, and has a "guitar season" during which he maintains his fingernails and cuts back on climbing), but when you see him flying up 5.10's and 5.11's in his gym shorts, swami belt, and skimpy rack, you can only tremble at the prospect of him in full form.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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Gunks history Bump!
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DMiles
Social climber
Ridgewood, NJ
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Jan 28, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Jack's Life and Magic is Alive and Well in All of You..... Thanks So Much for Being So Endlessly Loving! Every Year I Become Sad ...The New Year is Never Easy.... But when I Check on All Of You I Know Jack Was Lucky To Have
Remarkable Friends! You are Jack's Heroes and Mine Too! You Guys and Gals Somehow Make It Less Horrible and Sad. Thanks Again... I Am Forever Available To All Of You For Anything and Everything.....I Would Love To Build A Collective Site About Jack....It's Getting Harder To Access Photos and Stories.....Anyway if it's Not Too Corny or Weird.....There Must Be So Many Photos That He Took and Are in and Articles He Wrote and Where Written with his Passing .....Any Videos? Jack Gave Me A Number Of His Slides and I Gave Them Back To Him For Some Climbing Mag and I Never Did Get Them Back But I Guess They Belong With The Climbing Community. The Mileski Clan is Forever Grateful........I Beta Go.....Mr.Sir's Other Half
My Telephone is 213 290 8678 in L.A.? You Are Always Welcome James Mileski
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 28, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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BUMP
This is a bump for warmer temps, we got another days worth of wet snow an hour south of the Gunks, if this seems a bit just a bit self - serving, but i am willing to try anything to bring on some Spring Weather!!
Tradman is still wackin' ice what an ice year wow!!
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jstan
climber
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Mar 28, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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The world is what we make of it. I have not been to many places but here is what I have seen.
Tetons: When you get into trouble the Tetons tell you, "You have not been very smart. Stupid actually, but we are too genteel to use that word. We will let you get free this time but try to be smarter in future. Please!"
JT: JT will meet you with whatever tude you are suffering, It says, OK if that is the way you want it, you are not going to get any protection and then we will throw the ball bearings at you. If you come down on a rope you are just one level lower than a skink. Oiy veh!"
The Gunks: It says, " Here you will know as you do it that you are looking for trouble. But we want to support you and we will find a way to get you out of trouble, But please help us!
Yosemite: It says, "OK boobsie. We don't give a damn what you have in mind. Just know that you are going to sweat. Streams of sweat. All for nothing.
Edit:
Every Facelift is its own special paradise. At one of them I was in El Cap Meadow dealing with all the just plain people who wanted only to help. I looked up at the Nose and said, I won't again trouble you. The Nose said, "Nor I you. And then added, Don't you think this is a much better relationship?"
It is.
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