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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Thanks for that Clint.
The suspense is killing me. What happened on the Schnoz today?!!! Anyone heard?
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clustiere
Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
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this is getting silly just like the seconds in and faractions of seconds in ski racing
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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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" this is getting silly just like the seconds in and faractions of seconds in ski racing"
Huh? You do realize that when you're moving at 65mph a small fraction of a second can be 40 or 50 feet (if I've done my back-of-the-envelope math correctly 1sec @70mph is 102ft...), right? That is a very significant amount of time at high speed.
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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i think it's a given that the guys who are in fact trying to get "the record" are perfectly clear on the correct way to time the effort, on both ends (even if the peanut gallery on the internet is not).
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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For the luvagawd, resize that damn photo, please...
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Oh please, everyone here is poking a little fun at Hans. BFD. Hans is badass, as I said in my post. He does have a bit of an ego, but how many climbers don't. This is why the Hoolywood Hans moniker, regardless of how it came about is so fitting and funny to most. It doesn't detract from who he is or his personality.
It *would* be nice to get an actual time out of Hans so this thing can be put to rest, however. As mentioned, there were two different times posted on his own website alone. Him speaking up and saying "this is mine and Yuji's time" would suffice.
And to this nonsense about "15 seconds or ten minutes doesn't matter"... Bleh! It totally matters. When you're out to beat a time, and going out of your way to do things in the recognized fashion that this time was done, it completely matters. As someone else said, in any other sport 15 seconds, 10 minutes, 1.25 seconds all matters. It's competitive and all good natured. No one here can even come close to touching those times, so what would give us the right to say that it's all the same or a tie? As Snoop would say, "Nigga please!"
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Hawkeye please resize or delete that photo, its.. annoying as hell, can't read the whole post without scrolling back and forth.
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Jordan Ramey
Trad climber
Oklahoma City, OK
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Thought I'd add to the mix. This is an excerpt from an
interview I did with Hans earlier this year. It was up on
http://www.spadout.com. Congrats to the Hubers of course!
[edit] tried to fix the spacing, its that damn pic above.
---------------
Well, I’d like to ask you a little bit about The Nose [El Cap,
VI 5.9 C2]. I see that you and Yuji [Hirayama] hold the
current world record time of 2:48:30. I know there’s a lot of
people out there gunning for a faster time now. If it falls in
the next couple of years or ever, do you think you guys are
going to give it another go ahead or do you think you might
find a different partner? What are your feelings on that?
I can’t speak for Yuji, but I will go take a crack at it
again. The simple answer is yes I will go take a crack at it
again whether it be [with] Yuji or someone else. Just because
I think it’s fun and worthy of trying to one up one more time
or two more times. I think it is the iconic route of speed
climbing in the world. Synonymous to whatever would be the
Indy 500 or something. Do you want a more elaborate answer?
I think that’s really good. I was very curious because I know,
like you said, that [route] is the Indy 500 of the climbing
world. Everyone knows The Nose route on El Cap, and so I’m
always curious, ya know, if that was your time and you were
going to stick with that, or you know, that you would just keep
pushing the envelope. If someone brought it down to 2:40 would
you try to push it even further than that? Because I know that
when Yuji and you got off the route that you were super psyched
about your time that you got, but you also talked [about how]
you saw areas for improvement and saw that you could probably bring that time down even more if you gave it another go ahead.
[chuckles] Yeah, I mean I shook my head, held my head, when one
of the interviewers had the camera on Yuji and asked him if we could go faster and he said, ”Oh yeah, I’m sure we can take 20 minutes off” and I’m like “Oh god Yuji”. [laughter] Somewhat
to be, you know, holding something back, but just like I don’t
have a rule per say, I’ve found I don’t. It doesn’t seem so stylistic to go and throw yourself at the route again and again
if you already hold the record, to get it faster. It so
happens that one time when I did have the record with Lisa [Coleman] Puhvel we thought we could do faster and we actually
went slower. So I made a, not promise, but an idea to myself, don’t go out and try to improve on the record because if you’re
rehearsing it eventually people can put a big top rope thing on
the thing and people can climb the thing really fast. If you
wire every teeny tiny little thing on it, it changes, to me,
the race. And certainly it’s changed since 40 years ago. The
tools we have that we didn’t have then. I always point out to
people that the true record on El Cap is 48 minutes by the cavers. They’ve jugged the thing in 48 minutes.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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HalHammer, I sympathize. I have found, though, that the people
typing posts which follow a big photograph have control over the
width of their posts. If you post in the supertopo window and let
the window do your "carriage return" for you, your post will be
as wide as the photo. If you hit the carriage return (enter)
yourself, you can keep your post narrow. Thus, the authors of
the posts with the very wide text lines can go back and edit
their posts by hitting the enter key appropriately to make their
posts readable.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Plus, I apologize for the tone of my previous post.
What a prig.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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I guess 2:45:45 takes care of most of this thread, to begin with. Badass on all counts!
Good luck Hans! I'm sure you'll be at it soon! This is gonna get scary if Yuji really did have 20 more (less) minutes in him and they go again together! It's already an superhuman time! I think it was superhuman when Dean/Timmy were putting up times.
Good luck to all.
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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i predict someone breaks that record in less than a year
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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For the previous record time from Hans' email:
"For those who are detail oriented, in 2002 Yuji Hirayama and I climbed the route to the finishing bolts on the route in 2:48:30, we then continued on to the finishing tree to stop the time at 2:48:55. The Huber's time is to the tree! So they do have the record!"
BCD, let me explain the joke from Han's slideshow to you. Han's said (paraphrasing) they made an attempt and just missed the record, he JOKED they should have gotten minutes reduced for passing parties, then said of course that's just a joke, they actually went back and climbed it in a lower time for the record before the slide show you saw. This is not the first time you have brought this up and have been corrected on this forum. I hope you can realize your mistake and apologize.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
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"For those who are detail oriented, in 2002 Yuji Hirayama and I climbed the route to the finishing bolts on the route in 2:48:30, we then continued on to the finishing tree to stop the time at 2:48:55. The Huber's time is to the tree! So they do have the record!"
Thanks for the clarification. They trying it again today?
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NML81
Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
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Shaving a few seconds means nothing to me. Why don't they spend there time on something productive. If you shave a significant amount of time off that might mean something. What a waste of time.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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"Why don't they spend there time on something productive."
Like curing cancer or working the bugs out of cold fusion?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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“Why don't they spend there time on something productive”
Probably getting a pretty productive workout.
Outstanding effort! And also to all that do the Nose for that matter
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"Why don't they spend there time on something productive."
I know, how about a spelling contest!
"Like curing cancer or working the bugs out of cold fusion"...
Well, Alex does have a Masters in Physics, after all...
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