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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Sep 27, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
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And Thanks, Joey.
Open the floodgates!!
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BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
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Sep 27, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Sep 27, 2007 - 09:31pm PT
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Nice Joe!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Welcome to the machine Joey!
Ursula:
The Vision:
(photos Sean Curtis RIP)
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Sep 28, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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The Vision looks awesome. We just climbed Euphoria on Pennyroyal Arches a few weeks ago; some of the most amazing moderate climbing in Yosemite. I can't wait to go back there and do something more committing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 10:56am PT
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Yes Misha,
The vision, one of my favorites, done it a handfull of times, cordless twice (not that I'm much of a soloist...)
Mesmerized on Mariuolumne,
I wonder how often this is done?
Hawkins lower down:
Pulling the roof
Weaving through the upper roofs:
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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Sep 28, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
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wow tarbaby, that route looks great! rated @?
is that fella on ursula one tom addison?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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Hi Matt,
No, that fellow on Ursula is Le Tarbaby, summer of 1980. I had left my first Stetson, a nice grey felt rendition, at the base of Sweet Jesus, One Toke over the Line, the week before…
The roof moves on Mesmerized:
It starts out fingers, a long reach through a wide hand section to good jams, then a big high step to get around the lip, some sort of 5.11.
The last pitch exit is kind of strange too; I chose a roundabout way that required a point of aid out left to get by a loose block, and when I looked down, I saw the way Dale Bard went, because I saw his bolt (or maybe just the holds, not perfectly sure about the presence of a bolt), which can't be seen from the belay. Essentially, you need to make a committing move up onto a hanging aręte.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Summit of Unicorn or Cockscomb, (can't keep them straight, I think that is Cockscomb in the background)
Tim Messick and I had just done an old North Face route,
I don't know if it had been freed before, but it was about 10C, with a bit of a pumpy layback:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 03:42pm PT
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Summit, Daff Dome.
Now this is how you make a proper anchor, or at least that's what I told the eager client:
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Matt
Trad climber
never ever pissing into the wind
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Sep 28, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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yaa- that other feller pro'ly woulda been sportin some serious lycra bout then anyways, shoulda known it weren't him...
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Sep 28, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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It's still there Roy, July 07.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Sep 28, 2007 - 05:34pm PT
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They don't call it the "Death Zone" for nuthin'! East Cottage approach.
OZ from the top of Lamb Dome
DAFF from Lamb Dome
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Sep 28, 2007 - 06:02pm PT
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>>Summit of Unicorn or Cockscomb, (can't keep them straight, I think that is Cockscomb in the background)
You are on Unicorn. In the background is Echo Ridge (the highest formation) and some Echo Peaks. Cockscom is further to the left and is out of view. Can you give some beta about the old North face route?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
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Sure Misha, I can render some vague beta, along with a bit of superfluous background.
Bob Ashworth told Tim Messick and me about the route.
Here's Bob Ashworth out in front of the Tuolumne branch of the Yosemite Mountaineering School, circa 1986:
photo by Tom Carter
He just said he knew there was a route that had been done there, that may not have been free climbed, so we consulted The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra (Roper). Here's what it said: “Various short and unaesthetic routes have been done on the north and northwest faces. A three-pitch route, 5.8, A3, has been done on the direct north face.”
So Timmy and I got blasted on good weed and charged (struggled) directly up to said route, which consisted of a rounded flake, mid-face, either left or right facing (sorry). That's what we climbed!
I love your photos man, keep them coming!
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Sep 28, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
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awesome photos everyone! tuolumne is truly the best. couple more:
lord caffeine at olmstead
chinese handcuffs
le dike route
obligatory meadow brews at sunset
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Sep 28, 2007 - 09:11pm PT
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Fish outta water.....
[url=http://imageshack.us]{{img}}h~~p://img292.imageshack.us/img292/1197/dscf0902mushw0.jpg[/img][/url]
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Risk
Mountain climber
Minkler, CA
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Sep 28, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
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Showing my friends around the neighborhood, ca.1969. We had a hard time finding a dry place to set up camp. Bears were everywhere. I don’t think there was a gate at the campground then, and so we just had to do the best we could getting back there in the snow and mud.
Hangin with the folks along the river, ca.1964.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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Awesome, wonderful shots!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2007 - 12:29am PT
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Helga & Nancy, Mariuolumne Summit:
Hobbit Book:
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!