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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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Sep 24, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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Jaybro-I never said I pulled the rap line at Fremont Cyn., doh! I'm adventurous, but not crazy, especially when the water is a Class 6 (so I'm told when they're letting water run through the canyon), swimming out is not an option. Although, Captain Fremont and his boys gave it a run...I believe they got a little wet.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 25, 2007 - 01:56am PT
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I always loved climbing at Millbrook, back when I was climbing in the 'Gunks you could almost always be the only team over there, even when the Trapps were hopping...
And this time of year is magical...
...ah well, I'll be in the Valley, hard to complain.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 25, 2007 - 03:01am PT
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"Ever hear of a repeat on Waugh's free climb of the Nose at Granite Mountain (aka Bridge Across Forever)? "
Deja vu! didn't I ask this once, on the other side of the record? better turn it over and see ... "it's okay they're all speaking chinese,"
Just stirring the pot, Lugar, last month I heard a first hand account from both members of a party that did just almost that (not a new route, though; still scary, esp for the nonrope puller) so your post made me think of that.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 25, 2007 - 10:00am PT
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JBro - I was just asking treeman as he seemed to be a new guy in the mix that knew some stuff!
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Ezra
Trad climber
WA, NC
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Sep 25, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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Bad influence, sorry i can't climb this weekend, I'm out of town for my daughter's first birthday, other wise I could show you Moores Wall. send me an e-mail if you need a local partner, I may know some people climbing.
-e
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sep 25, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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suck creek, tn.
-best to have the kevlar if yer rap boltin or using a bosch...RR (not royal) shot a few rounds above the hangdogs accordin' to lore...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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Are there any pure trad areas still left? besides Elbsandstein?
Uh, I think there are a few mountains that are still pretty trad. Not the sherpa and fixed rope and snow slog, but the alpine rock, start at the bottom and climb to the top, kind.
D
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:18am PT
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You know that's a fact Ghost.
This post upthread from Ezra is pretty cool, about an alpine rock face in the N Cascades, Mox Peak:
(pretty cool link & read)
http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/06/061_Mox.html
Nevertheless, methinks Bachar is more interested in cragging per se.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Castle Crags State Park
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2007 - 02:03am PT
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This post upthread from Ezra is pretty cool, about an alpine rock face in the N Cascades, Mox Peak
That was a fine one. And every range has dozens just like it.
Nevertheless, methinks Bachar is more interested in cragging per se.
No doubt. But really, "trad" is more a state of mind than a particular set of rules, and there are plenty of areas/crags where the odd sport route, or top-down ascent takes nothing away from a multitude of trad lines.
Likewise there are places where the kind of ground-up trad purity that JB is talking about simply isn't possible. When the crack lines are full of thousands of years of dirt, tree roots, and moss, the only way to end up with the kind of wonderful trad climb we all want is to aid your way up through the crap and then dig your way down.
Squamish is a perfect example. The amazing crack lines are the result of a vast amount of vertical landscaping. Concensus among the route grubbers is about one hundred person-hours per pitch to get the kind of climb one can be proud of handing over to the community. On a multi-pitch climb that translates to a whole season -- or several seasons -- of work. And even then it takes a few years of steady traffic to remove the last vestiges of dirt and vegetation from the cracks.
In many parts of the world it is possible to walk up to the base of a cliff and climb to the top. Onsight, ground-up, no drilling. The whole pure enchilada. Other places, that just isn't possible until someone else has invested half his summer to get a route ready for you to make the second (but first pure) ascent.
David
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 26, 2007 - 02:23am PT
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Ghost said:
"But really, "trad" is more a state of mind than a particular set of rules".
Now that's poignant.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 26, 2007 - 03:23am PT
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"The 4th is more than a day ..."
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2007 - 11:54am PT
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Tar baby is right on the money - I'm mostly interested in new cragging spots that are trad oriented.
All these areas are sounding pretty cool to check out. I never realized the Right Coast had so many trad spots!
Of course the difference between "trad" and "not-trad" is never black and white - there will always be shades of grey but that's OK. It keeps us trad guys and gals striving to achieve the ultimate in "trad purity" whenever possible and it is always inspiring to see what climbers have accomplished in this direction when visiting different areas.
Apart from that, I got to say thanks for all the info folks... this is great stuff for all trad aficionados.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Sep 26, 2007 - 02:07pm PT
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A spot outside of Santiago, Chile called las columnas, in the Valle de la Engorda has got some strong ethics going. Got to rap off knots at the top of every climb. Still many unclimbed lines there.
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