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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think that it got repeated fairly quickly after we did it. I will see Paul soon, so I'll report back if this thread persists. Basalt takes some very solid hex placements and that route was well protected from the start. We used to have that place all to ourselves with not a bolt or chalk mark to be found. The Cwm is a fantastic place also with It's a Beautiful Day (5.8), best handcrack at that grade ever, and Tralfamador (5.9+). For 10d-ish try Canary Crack.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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No one has yet mentioned Axis aka Blotto at Arch. Really cool jammin up a striking flake, then some interesting face funk traverse to a just barely adequate rap anchor.
Classic,
Peter
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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beegee @ (pinnacle peak)
prow @ (PF) (but my hands are girlish small-3.5" ala 2nd of Dream Weaver kills me)
odyssey @ (reef) rated 11-, but our party of 3 gave 10+ and thought the 1" section "5.10" was stiffer and certainly would have been harder without the few foot holds.
waverly (cookie) might not be that hard- I could grab the arete
catchy- (cookie)
abra's 3rd pitch (stronghold)
pissgum's 4th pitch (stronghold)
canary crack @ (cwm) might be - I just remember my super trundle at base of that one- killt a 50' pine tree.
jay- does direct start of Jump Back Jack @ GM make 10+?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The fourth pitch of Cap'm Pissgums was fully 5.11 when I first did it. Fig and I did the second ascent on a rack of nuts alone! After clipping a fixed bong in the depths of the Captain's angry eye, I climbed up and down repeatedly trying to get anything to protect the yawning inevitable out left. After wearing through the seat of my pants and getting nothing but a sideways 8 1/2 stopper and a crappy #8 hex in the overhanging flared crack, I went for it, all the way around the corner! The fixed bong guaranteed no escape from the gloomy hole below so the jaunt was pretty exciting. We even got the first free ascent (with a top rope) off to the right of the original three bolt ladder.
The first ascent party (Dave Baker and Mark Axen) busted their asses to get within spitting distance of the summit, all free, only to be forced to drill three aid bolts to top out. The route was named What A Burn for quite a while until Mark Axen raised up the Zap comics hero. Cap'm Pissgums and his Pervert Pirates is required local reading. LOL
Direct start to Jump Back Jack is 10+ for sure.
Abracadaver's third should still be 5.11a especially if you run the second and third together for the best challenge.
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Steve-
the third time I did the 3rd pitch of Abra -Scott DeCapio lead it with 4 pieces and thought 10c. I thought, harder, but not that much harder. 3 times I've been suckered into the 2nd pitch, and 3 times suffered in slings looking at the thin crack. Stringing the 2nd and 3rd would be super manly - could be worse with OW after the thin crack. Mike I guess had no issues with the FA except the bolts according to DB!
Pissgums is stiff, but it is a good size (2") for my hands. I was cocked in chimneying and jambing it and was solid (with Bill Lefevre in 1992). No where near as hard as the start and we finished by pulling on bolts (vs the free var).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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No prob on that Axis anchor Peter.
I punched in a 3/8" bolt next to those mungified pins about 20 years ago.
Werner said, at the time: "why, huh?"
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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Sloe Children at Index is to 10d as Miles Davis is to jazz.
fk
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ditto that, even though the crux is a chimney/stemming problem.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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The guy I was following on that went right side in to make it more difficult. He neglected to mention that to me. I went right side in too, monkey see, monkey do. Ugh.
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bob
climber
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Second pitch of Shambles in T Meadows. Second pitch of CW Hicks Granite Mountain
A few at the Waterfall in Sedona that I can't remember the names of but they were super! Wait, was it Big Dubes Big Boobs, Black and Tan, and one other that.......shoot, can't recall. Grandma's Challenge at Eldo. 10c, but manoman that thing felt a wee tad more difficult.
Bob J.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Final Exam?
It sure looks pretty, but what hike for that pitch!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Blotto yes, what a great and classic 10d crack. Do not (I repeat Do Not) attempt pitch 2, which nearly took my life in 1977. It is a (or was, I should say) super dirty and loose sandbag. Stick with the first pitch.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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How about the ".10d" pitch on Don Juan Wall. What a beaut...and burly too.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Scuffy mentioned 'interceptor' and 'harvest' at the city which i second. although isn't interceptor .11a?
El Matador at the tower seemed hard, but i think i started the stem to early, also mr. clean....(yeah i yammed the last 20')
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9338/dsc01659zv2.jpg
jah man anyone??
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Interceptor was called .11 when I first did it.
are Mr Clean and El mat .10d, now? hee-hee!
guess it's time to put Horn's mother back on that list, then. har!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2007 - 02:25pm PT
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I think Catchy Corner is pretty good for .10d :p
Arm's Race in the Meadows. I hear it's worthy ...
And WOW, that pic of the Tower...what, did that thing suck the gear off your rack?
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Sep 10, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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(checked in newest book w/ frank on the cover) 'mr. clean' is .11a, but the matador is called .10d, which i thought was alot harder than 'direct southwest' .11b (best pitch on the tower??), and harder than 'back to montana' .10d.
what about the 'danse macabre'? anyone climbed it?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 10, 2007 - 12:53am PT
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Pat, The 'Danse' is definitely stout! Led it in 80/81 and had to 'Take a biscuit,'-archaic brit slang for hanging on a nut.
Direct Southwest really might be the best pitch on the tower, inmho!
El Mat 10d? now there's some humor.
"Topo said 5.11, seemed like A-1 to me," Frank P Sanders (not specifically about that route.)
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Sep 10, 2007 - 01:40am PT
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i want to check out the 'danse', one on the list that i havn't gotten on. hoping to get over there soon...
'captian nemo' .10d in veduawoo seemed pretty hard; although the swinging whipper is one not to be missed! (a bugaloo attempt)
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