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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Dihedral Bump! Thanks, Chris!
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Dave Sessions
Big Wall climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 21, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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isn't that picture of Roper on the FA of the West Buttress.....?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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Which picture of Roper are you referring to?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Henneck Bump!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So Marc, about your use of that resurrection word today...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Those bolts are a shame, have they been chopped since you were on it Pete? That WAS 4 years ago...doubt it, but seems like it should happen...
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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"Pop the topths, man!" By the way, where's the Miner's lettuce that Robbins and Frost found so plentiful?
Also, Mead Hargis and Jim Langdon made a very rapid ascent (5th or 6th?) BITD. Might have been faster than Madsen/Schmitz by a few hours.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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Yet another Henneck Bump! Third ascent of this classic route after Royal and Tom did the second!
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Sep 19, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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DW.....bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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Ed Cooper is in the house!
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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I'm posting two pictures at what I think is called the black arch. On the first one, I climbed above Glen who belayed me. I remember putting pitons in behind the black arch, and as I was putting another piton in, on the back swing of the hammer, the piton I was anchored to popped, as well as two or three more. I took a beautiful backward swan dive for some 20-30 feet. The wall was so steep and smooth, I was unscathed. I prussiked back up and finished the pitch (This was in the days before mechanical ascenders). The second view looks down at Glen at the very base of this arch. Considerable work was required to restore these transparencies, which were scratched , with faded colors, and had fungal spots.
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Eubanks,D
Big Wall climber
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Lots of history here.
Thanks Ed
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john hansen
climber
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Nice Ladder.
How did you guys tie in? Did you have harness's ,Swami belt , or a Bowline?
I can't really tell from the photo's.
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mud
Trad climber
CO
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WOW!
Thanks for the photo's Ed
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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This is perhaps the first time that one of those who did a new El Capitan route during the 1950s - 1960s golden age has graced us with his own stories and photos from the climb.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders might be right, this is awesome. Keep them coming , Ed, this means a lot to some of us.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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We didn't have climbing harnesses back then, but we did have swami belts, which were a step up from a simple bowline. An early climbing partner of mine, Tim Bond, died hanging from an overhang with a bowline. Very unfortunately, it was on his honeymoon and he was climbing in the Tetons with his wife.
While we used those ladders you see in the picture, we also used the slings made of the wide webbing to stand in. They were more comfortable and secure in most instances.
I'm attaching a nice view looking down at Jim Baldwin below the triangular roof at the 700' level.
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Eubanks,D
Big Wall climber
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This being my first El Cap route, this all means a whole lot to me.
Thanks again Ed
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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I have only done a few routes on El Cap. Dihedral wall was the hardest. Love the old pics.
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