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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:26am PT
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Boy, that ledge looks cozy...
...know anything about that one?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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rotc rawks--
but if we expand this thread to finger cracks, it will take all night and bvb will end up with arthritis from uploading all the scans.
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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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what about this one:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:28am PT
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What about that ledge Rhodo?
Are you trying to trick me?
Ha ha.
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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:29am PT
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this is a good one as well:
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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:36am PT
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lower gorge:
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:38am PT
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Some allusion in Achey's 'Climb' to a couple folks "enjoying the ledge a little too much" and never getting around to finishing the route...Diana somebody. No one I know.
Pente isn't exactly slammer hands for me, but that thing around the corner is pretty much a custom fit.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:39am PT
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didn't Doug Robinson write:
Driving out later, afternoon sun highlighted an endlessly parade of vertical cracks in the warm sandstone walls along the road. Glancing up, Chuck gathered in the miles of cliff face with the sweeping gesture of a callused hand and pronounced, "The future home of crack climbing in America."
regarding Pratt's comment on their 1969 trip to Indian Creek... seems authoritative.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:40am PT
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Mr. Clean at Devils Tower.
If memory serves me correctly it's hands forever.
Might be a bit tighter...
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:40am PT
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Nah
All those desert cracks are filled with sand and scorpions.
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matisse
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:42am PT
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Igor Unchained. Needles.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:43am PT
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... and very often, those desert cracks: filled with cams.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:45am PT
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And almost everything else in the California Needles is some sort of fingers.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:47am PT
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There are some VERY fine hand cracks on gritstone in England - Almscliff, Stanage, Froggatt, and so on. As gritstone is a kind of sandstone, maybe all the hand cracks migrated there?
I once met a tiny fellow who did Tales of Power, and said it was a strenuous 5.9 hand crack.
We have some ok hand cracks in Squamish, best appreciated in November.
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crøtch
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:48am PT
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Has anybody mentioned Karate Crack at Smith? Wasn't it on the cover of one edition of Climbing Anchors?
Blue Sun
Bunny Slope
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 14, 2007 - 01:55am PT
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karate crack is actually really cool, although it would suck to second the thing since that last traverse to the belay ends up a down-climb.
and i'll push sometime crack once more, since as an overhanging handcracks it doesn't require ankle pain.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:01am PT
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Tarbuster
Come to WA, I'd love to go do ROTC with you. I live 35 minutes away, go solo top-roping up there all the time because it is so awesome. The hike is the testpiece, less than an hour but quite brutal. The grade is 5.11c, which I guess is accurate, I've lost track. It is the sort of route where the difference between leading and toproping is HUGE, as far as it can be. Good jams the whole way, if you sequence it right and don't waste time...which is hard when you are leading. I've seen a number of good climbers butcher the lead and then immediately top-rope it like it's easy. Best pitch in the state, even though Index is a much better area overall. And yes, definitely include Mister Clean at the Devil Rock.
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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:03am PT
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karate crack:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:08am PT
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Hummerchine!
A very nice, offer thank you.
I do remember that ROTC thing is way up the hill.
Right after I get my re-juve I will be looking you up...
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crøtch
climber
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Aug 14, 2007 - 02:10am PT
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There's that handcrack high up on Outer Space in Leavenworth, but it's not as steep or as clean as the others on this thread.
The pics of Hotline, and that un-named crack that Handsome B posted are giving me a boner.
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