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ricardo
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I hope that the next party up has their head placing skills down ..
p8 has several head placements in a row (3 or 4 in several places)
 ricardo
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 10, 2004 - 12:30am PT
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Holy frig, guys - placing beaks, RURPs and heads is routine A3 or A3+ if even that. It doesn't mean it's hard. Just cuz you have to place the gear instead of clip fixed stuff isn't a big deal.
Unfortunately, you might now have to learn how to actually climb big walls instead of just clipping your way up trade routes.
Shut up and nail.
And yeah, I was a bit off when I said that Zodiac would become like The Nose. Sorry. But you knew what I meant....
I agree with Karl's philosphy for free climbs and clean climbs, but not nail-ups. I agree the speed climbers had a lot to do with the fixed stuff. Rumour has it that on occasion, speed climbers pre-climb routes and pre-place pins and heads in key locations to save time later. If you happened to do the route right after it was "equipped" you could probably score some booty, though you might not live to enjoy it once the equippers caught up with you.
"...saying you climbed El Cap when all you did was jug a line." Yeah, that's been done on Zodiac all right. The person who did it wasn't as smart as he thought he was - he got caught.
And another thing! [I'm ranting] This whole "clean climbing" gig is a total charade! "Oh, I say, we climbed the North America Wall clean at C4, and ain't we bitchin'?"
What a heap of choss! You frickin' climbed it on everyone else's fixed heads and RURPs and fixed pins and even bolt ladders. You can't climb aid nailing routes clean unless there is preplaced gear that someone else hammered in place! Yeah, you should climb clean whenever possible, I didn't say you shouldn't. What I'm saying is, it's a complete crock to claim a "clean" ascent or "hammerless" ascent of a frickin' nailup because you are climbing someone else's nailed gear!
Think about it - if there is even one missing fixed head or RURP, you're buggered, or you're reaching for your cheat stick.
Arg. Get off the frickin' trade routes and learn to climb rocks, not clip fixed gear. Kudos to the Zodiac Cleaners. I hope Zodiac is Un-Trade-Route-ified.
[/rant]
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Gabe
Big Wall climber
Huntington Beach California
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Sep 10, 2004 - 12:41pm PT
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The clean-up was both a great deal of fun and a huge load of extra work. Bryan, Ivo, and myself had a good time up there and felt like we were giving a little back.
Bryan talked to the right people and put the word out to the climbing community about what his intentions were. This was not just a 'spur of the moment' clean-up.
Alot of what some people are worried about sounds like future pin scaring on Zodiac. 95% of the pins removed were angles that will now accept an alien perfectly!
Alot of time bombs were removed.... I think you may want to place your own pro above the black tower.
One memorable section was on pitch 11 where a two and a half foot section of thin crack was home to eleven dead rurps. It took about three hours but I was able to remove nine of eleven of the little bastards.
I hope the community will keep all the routes a little cleaner. Cheers! Gabe
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Sep 10, 2004 - 12:47pm PT
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Thanks for you hard work!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 10, 2004 - 12:49pm PT
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"One memorable section was on pitch 11 where a two and a half foot section of thin crack was home to eleven dead rurps."
hmmm...I coulda swore that was pitch 8, going into the Grey Circle. oh well, nice job man thanks for the effort!
Matt
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Gabe
Big Wall climber
Huntington Beach California
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Sep 10, 2004 - 01:14pm PT
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Yeah Matt, It was pitch 8. It all kinda blured together....:)
thanks for the good words..........cheers!
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mpepe
Big Wall climber
pleasant hill, ca
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Sep 11, 2004 - 12:35pm PT
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Thanks guys, truly selfless and admirable work. You have my thanks for one.
Matt
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 11, 2004 - 01:54pm PT
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I'm happy to hear that clean pro fits where pins were removed. I know it's hard to remove dead rurps and broken pins and I appreciate that a great deal.
Are all the fixed heads removed?
Thanks
karl
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sep 11, 2004 - 10:21pm PT
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After recently returning to the desert and plugging into a phone line at my bro’s house, I have been able to read this thread as well as the one on RC.com – interesting and thought provoking, for sure. I have lots on my mind and detailed data to share, but need to collect my thoughts first. Give me a few days and I will tell all.
The Zodiac Lives
-American Chopper
RBCA (Retro Bolt Choppers of America)
Vroom Vroom!!!
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Loom
climber
The Sierra or Merdead
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Sep 11, 2004 - 11:21pm PT
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Good work Bryan.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Sep 16, 2004 - 01:56pm PT
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Arrrrgggg!
Uh people...like, not everyone has a broadband connection, you know?
This is one of the most outrageous misuses of Flash I have ever encountered.
In the background, an 11 MB (!!!) mp3 is trying to download, and greatly slows
the loading of the Flash file. I gave up after 3 minutes on my 28 K-bit connection.
Here's a partial screenshot of the browser Activity Monitor (Safari):
Someone give that webmaster a clue!!
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bigwalling
climber
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Sep 16, 2004 - 05:33pm PT
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Oh yeah I forgot to say you need a fast connection to view his site.
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ricardo
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 05:45pm PT
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its true .. ivo's english needs some help. i think he even mispelled chopperhead's name.
for those of you waiting to see a pitcture of all the crap they cleaned .. there is one on the main page..
ricardo
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Sep 16, 2004 - 05:53pm PT
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If that pic is of the stuff cleaned off the Z., I'd be interested to know from which pitch they cleaned the cam hooks? Bizzare.
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ricardo
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 06:03pm PT
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oh sh#t -- melissa is right .. that picture is just of gear..
hehe .. my bad ..
ricardo
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drunky
Social climber
flagstaff,az
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Sep 16, 2004 - 06:24pm PT
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Kudos to the crew and the work they did. WORK!
I still don't understand the term "clip up"? I said it before and i'll say it again, you climb El Cap, you CLIMBED EL CAP. The entire dumbing down of lines when referenced in the climbing community has as much of an affect on the general cattle population mentality as a guidebook. Talk about the affects of a US published guidebook (supertopo), think about what many locals on this forum have posted "Zodiac is a clip-up, TT is a clip-up" You see this posted everywhere on the internet, the new WORLDWIDE GUIDEBOOK. And whats next? How about removing all those miles of fixed heads on PO?
One major question I have about the Zod work is: are the rumours true that you removed perfectly good bolts at belays? IF this is true, I call bullsh#t. Go restore the rurp belay, only haul off of it, not after you are established at the next anchor. Enough said.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Sep 16, 2004 - 07:05pm PT
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I thought it looked like the cleaned up gear too...I really am curious about the cam hooks. It would make a good statement about the route needing to be cleaned of fixed crap anyway...
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Sep 16, 2004 - 09:50pm PT
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My partners hammered one of the camhooks in on the Black Tower, I think. Mid-August. They ain't from round here and didn't trust em. Seemed pretty funny at the time. Another was welded on the first Circle pitch, hammer marks all over it. I'm pretty sure there was a third one semi-fixed somewhere that my partners got out. Even Steven.
Seems the theory of camhooking makes complete sense in the Mountain Shop but less sense with 1000 feet of air under your ass. Understandable.
BL is sure collecting those thoughts...
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dave
climber
Oceanside
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Sep 16, 2004 - 10:52pm PT
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Yo, cam hooks are bomber, in the mountain shop, 5 feet or a 1000 feet off the deck, its the placement and the placer' that might have issues!
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