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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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I remember pulling off a ton of "holds". The route kept changing.
Crowd of buddies shouting encouragement.
EBs and maybe a shoulder stand to place something?
We didn't push it up that high.
I've forgotten who did.
They deserve the credit.
We felt hidden away. No rts over there BITD.
Wow what a tremendous job replacing those routes - unfathomable!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I've made it a new challenge to learn the tech of slab climbing.
I'd love to climb the Arch's slab climbs.
what a great place.
and i'm a shiity slab climber!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Thanks for replacing the bolts on Reefer Madness.... Mybee now I can go finish the darn thing.
I did P1, drafting any able bodied belayer I could find.
P2, saw a great big sliding fall, taken by Steven Bedford. So we fiddled in a bolt, a tag team effort.
P3. I had some serious help, Fred East and John Egger, right off the FA of the PO. John just hiked up the lower pitches, drilled most of P3, and drilled an anchor in a hole. We rapped off and called it a root.
I am glad others picked up the torch and finished the thing, and kept the name.
Thank you for fixing the bolts, some of them ride around on the dash of the VW today, little ¼ x ¾ long bolts. I shudder every time I think about the three of us, hanging at the belay while Steve looked down from like 50 feet above us, turned around, drill in one hand, hammer in the other, eyes W I D E open.
Good times.
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 29, 2009 - 04:03am PT
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Thanks Steve for the pics. I love hearing about all the details from the climbs you, Fig et.al have done.
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old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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Just a note on the "new route" Clint has in the picture of the routes, it's called "Cosmic Diesel" after the pick-up basketball team the Curry Garage fielded. I gave it 11+, its hard for me to rate a new route because of going up on it time after time. All those routes were fun except Friday the 13th, when I did that one the 1/4 inchers were out of the rock to the top of the split shank!! The belay bolts were in the same conditon, we just kept saying DONT FALL !!! Clint tells me he and Rodger replaced all the bolts on CD, I would love to have a second opinion on the rating. Also a question for Steve Grossman.. Steve are you going to be at Yosemite Facelift? If so I would like to meet you, I have lots of questions about some of the routes on the Apron.
Ron Skelton
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Big fun on tiny holds!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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We had a blast on those routes, Paula!
Ron- Fire away either here or via e-mail.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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bucking fump this.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Hey Steve.I love the Apron. Does anyone climb there anymore?
Dogtown.
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Remuus
Trad climber
Cali then; Tetons now
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Coz, Thanks for the reminder of the Shining! I went up there w/Scotty to finish the thing not knowing what I was in for. Man I'll NEVER forget that day! Been wondering for years if it got a 2nd...anyone know? Also, Big kudos to the guys that replaced the bolts on the Rambler...much appreciated! Always wanted to get back up there and take care of those but it's a 1000 miles away now days. Man those were the days!!
C Hash
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
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Shiny new bolts Bump!
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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BUMPl Nice photos and very stout for the time!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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Some great pitches! The crux was cool, but the continuous moves on some of the lower pitches were calf killers
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Hey 426....let's do a continuation up and over through the Cobra...Call me when you're back out this way.
Steve, Free soloing this route? Put those SST's back into the Chivas Regal bag and ...."Forget about it",.........
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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Always heard the Shining Never had a second ascent.
Place get's rarely climbed by the Arches but some places are good in winter and run into a local once in while.
Slab climbing is sorta dead but I still like it. I try to stay off the big falls near my limit these days though.
peace
Karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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The climbing felt almost choreographed and back in those days if I floated a route I would try to erase the rope in my imagination...No worries now! LOL
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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The first ascent included Mark McPherran (not 'Mike McPheron') -- who went on to survive a fall of 120 feet off the fourth pitch of the North American Wall in an attempted 1973 solo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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I just corrected Mark's name in the OP...Thanks for the heads up!
The first time that I had the opportunity to look through the NPS telescope was the season following Mark's big fall. He left a Chouinard biner at the belay and I was able to see it well enough from the meadow to recognize the shape! Amazing resolution...
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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Thanks for the correction. Much appreciated. And although he went on to academic 'glory' in the small world of ancient Greek philosophy, he always remembered the wall, his small 'error', and the richness that ensued (despite the broken bones). He remembers his partners fondly, is glad that that the route is so appreciated after all these years, and that we shall all be improved -- one hopes -- in our inner being for what all real climbers must face.
 M.L. McPherran
M.L.0 McPherran
F
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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oh man, I hope I don't have to face those routes to be a real climber! ;)
Though the idea has occurred to me to try. First I think I have to get Blackballed on a clean ascent down canyon, eh? Then maybe work into thinking about thinking about it. Very philosophical approach, no? :)
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