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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 10, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Certainly it worked for me and the rubber lasted forever ...Forever! . I eventually poked my toe through those shoes, I'll try to dig the photo up sometime.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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In all likelihood, I'll never climb this route, but Sweet Jesus, I enjoyed the hell out of reading this thread. Makes me realize how much I'm going to miss JB's presence here.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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"I have always been suspicious of climbs rated 5.9+" and "5.9+ means 5.10~".
Funny how that is. Climb long enough and you'll learn that 5.9+ might as well just be "sandbag+". No difference.
I enjoyed the hell out of reading this thread. Makes me realize how much I'm going to miss JB's presence here.
I second that.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 10, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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John would cuss a storm when he was being sand bagged. I heard some nice phrases over Sweet Jesus which was the ultimate compliment he could give a climb. Still makes me smile when I think about that.
AF
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
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We did this last weekend.
I had done the first pitch before, on a hot afternoon. You know- when you touch the rock, your hands immediately sweat, and there is a count of 4 between when you weight the foothold, and when you grease off?
It was a gripping (or lack of grip) experience, complete with whining and moaning.
This time, a nice morning, we did the whole climb, and had a good time. We did the .10c direct variation, but the traversing original route would have been better value, I think.
Second pitch
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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I backed off Sweet Jesus in fall 1980. Too scared to go on.
"5.9+"
I've only put up two FAs in Yosemite. I rated both of them as old school 5.9+. One is now considered 10b, the other 10c. One has a bolt where the original lead was run out.
Yep. That old school 5.9+ is grade to be respected.
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