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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 15, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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I'm with Jaybro on this one...
(humor completely intended)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 15, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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Loom, I just had to borrow that...it was too good...
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Roman
Trad climber
DC
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May 15, 2007 - 08:58pm PT
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That's a keeper steelmnky!
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 09:12pm PT
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You guys need to start selling those shirts!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
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I'll buy one!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 15, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
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900£? eh, ...So, if steelmnky and I were on an alien sponserd, hanging belay...
we'd fall twice?
I'm going golfing, in a cool t-shirt.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
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Sign me up for one of each T-shirt! Thems gonna be collectors items in 10 years, when n00bies have no idea what "Aliens" were.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 09:51pm PT
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Don't forget to get that Alien Logo in there.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 15, 2007 - 10:04pm PT
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I'll buy two of those C2/A4 tshirts in a heartbeat.
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Burns
Trad climber
Nowhere special
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May 15, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
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Wow. Sh*t.
This is like finding out your big brother was a serial killer or something. You probably knew he was kinda f'ed up all along, but you still liked him.
Last weekend I went out and bounce tested my newest aliens that haven't already held whips or been bounced on, and they 'passed'. However, I've got no concept of how much force I was really generating. Russ, any idea what kind of force a 150lb climber bounce testing can create (in my case the system was alien-biner through thumb loop, 2ft mammut dyneema sling, biner through belay loop of harness. My core is like steel, so it'd be best to assume there's no energy loss there from deformation......er....what?).
Edit: Count me in for a t-shirt...
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Griff
Social climber
Felton, PA
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May 15, 2007 - 10:35pm PT
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O.K.
After reading 80+ posts let me check my notes....
-105 lb. girl
-bounce test
-slow pull test
Got it.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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May 15, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
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Loom, "CCH -- putting the A4 back into C2 . "
Now that's funny! Wish I had come up with it!!
~Susan
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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May 15, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
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Over on Andy Kirkpatrick's site he recommends using light cord like 2mm or 3mm to dial in your bounce testing and so that you could give some sort of number to your tests.
Here's what's he's suggesting:
"The trick to testing is to understand how much force you can apply, and then you know that if you weigh 80kg and are generating 200kg then the gear's solid! A good way to get to grips with testing is to get a loop of 2mm perlon and gently hang of it. It should hold your weight (even a beefy american) but if you bounce it it'll break (A good A5+ piece). Next do the same with a piece of 3mm. This is far more solid and will easily take your weight - but it will only have the stopping power of...3mm cord (A4+ pro). Bounce this until you can break it – harder then it sounds. 4mm is way stronger, and may even stop a fall (about 3/4kn) and may prove hard to break in a bounce (A3)."
Seems like you could apply the same thought to testing an Alien?
Here's a link to the site: http://www.psychovertical.com/?testing
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 15, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Here ya go Mal, the Mal Daly special edition...
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jackass
climber
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May 15, 2007 - 11:33pm PT
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Send the C2 to A4 shirt to www.cafepress.com... I'll buy too. You may get sued, but it will be worth it until they tell you to cease and desist.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 16, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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I know a guy that has a permanant plate in his head because one of these things blew apart when he simply rested on it (no fall). He's super lucky he isn't dead or sucking peanut butter and jelly sandwiches through a straw. Seems like we either have to joke about this, or go crazy thinking about the possibility of dead climbers.
p.s. Hey Mal - it's been a long time since I even saw an ad... is that CCH's actual alien logo?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 16, 2007 - 12:52am PT
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I was just looking through my Alien pile, getting ready to send them in, thinking about some questions and expectations I might have for the man himself - when I noticed my older Aliens indeed have a drilled hole in the female part, where the braze material can be seen and inspected. I would assume the cable could be seen through this hole as well during assembly. The surface containing the hole was machined flat after brazing. These were bought 1994-1996 or so, and have no date stamps. My next oldest is from 0304 and does not have this drilled hole, nor any machining marks. Interesting...kind of. Reminded me we're all just sort of jerking ourselves trying to understand the issues from the outside. These kinds of things always look simple enough, but they're not.
Steelmonkey - your friend with the plate - how did the cam fail?
These things have saved my butt so many times over, with no close equal on the market. I want them to keep working for me and I'll put in a little effort to make it so, but it's really too bad the quality appears to have taken such a grievous turn.
JLP
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 16, 2007 - 01:11am PT
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My friend's cam failed right at the braze. Head of the cam pulled right off the wire. I haven't seen the unit in person, but that's his description. Non-dimple unit that he was given by a major climbing store as a replacement for a dimpled unit. The recall was not big enough, IMHO.
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kuan
Sport climber
CA
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May 16, 2007 - 01:20am PT
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Aaaugh - I shouldn't read this before going to bed. Now I'm going to have nightmares!
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gymclean
Mountain climber
Menlo Park, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 06:26am PT
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To any of you wanting to sell your Aliens, I'll be happy to pick them up now that Crowley has had his fill. I offer $10 each for Aliens in good condition, and I'll cover the shipping. E-mail me if you're interested.
George
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