Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
|
Don't believe everything you read in the book "CLIMB!" Its author, Bob Godfrey, was a good man and a friend but from England he knew little of the real history and based much of his accounts on simple heresay, hearing rivals speak utter nonsense about other rivals, and the like. If someone thought I was an egomanic serial killer, it would have ended up in those pages as a possibility. Hundreds of mistakes, though wonderful photos. Some day I would like to write the early history of Boulder and Eldorado climbing, a better one anyway. It hasn't yet been done to any satisfactory degree. But then I keep telling myself I'm done with writing, except songwriting...
Pat
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2007 - 08:46pm PT
|
Nyah, Jim Halfpenny (he signed registers 1/2¢)the author of the first Vedauwoo, and south eastern Wyo guides (not counting the uber-Bonney)
Allegedly the second person to bivvy on deto, as well.
Still looking, btw.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
|
OK, I see:
James Halfpenny
P.O. Box 989
Gardiner MT 59030
(406)848-9458
Maybe he has a spare copy?
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
|
For the more sophisticated taste, here are a few teasers:
The real first Devils Tower guide, only 3 copies known to have survived.
First Mimeo Needles guide, signed by both Conns.
Gran Gunks guide -- with original dust jacket.
First Teton's Guide (Coulter-McLane, 1947)
Jaybro: had Halfpenny guides and some other early/obscure Wyoming stuff -- sold most of it to Nick Clinch back in late 80s (I'll "half" to look to see if I had any dupes)
Here are couple other nice early guides:
The Pinnacles Guide is really nice, with great photos and high quality printing.
The Brower High Sierra Guide has been seen in the Forum before, still very neat.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2007 - 02:19am PT
|
looking sketch, rad!! I have that Pinns guide.
I laughed out loud when i looked at the price on the back. hahahaha
that's great!
|
|
Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2007 - 05:39am PT
|
Holy gentle Jesus. . .such opportunity. . .who'll be first to post a tall shelf of porn?
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2007 - 09:30am PT
|
Nice peek Sketch!!! I'm just a hack...you got the serious goods!
|
|
wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2007 - 09:56am PT
|
Sketch,
Love the Conn's guide to the Needles. The drawing really captures the spires well.
AK
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2007 - 11:39am PT
|
bump--for the one year anniversary of my own contribution to guidebook overkill. It holds its own amongst its classic brothers.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
|
Love the quirky and gritty old hand drawn guides. They just don't make 'em like they used to!
The slick & polished photo-laden guides of today really do seem to reflect the growth and mass-market appeal of climbing, don't they?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
|
Randy,
Wow, thanks for sharing some of the rarities! I had never seen the Conn guide - way cool cover. I have see the Gran Gunks guide, but no, not with an intact dust jacket. I had always wondered about the origin of the Skytop route named "Between Plates C and D"! I agree that Richard Irvin's photos in the Bud Hammack 1955 Pinnacles guide are really nice. Mungeclimber was kind enough to make a xerox copy of his for me. Larry Arthur (of Mountain Tools) wanted to find a copy of the Hammack guide himself, and had the cool idea of checking his customer list. Sure enough, Hammack was on it, so Larry gave him a call and it turned out he had a spare copy!
|
|
Deuce
Trad climber
Sonoma County, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
|
hey steel, how do i get a library card.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
|
Ducie, you can only persue the contents in the stacks with cotton gloves. No check outs! :-)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
|
anyone got a spare East Coast Rock Climbs guide they want to part with? I just need it to fill out my collection. Not for real use, just like a menu at the climbing restaurant. I promise to take good care of it and love it and squeeze and call it george.
|
|
TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
wow so many cool old publications.
Clint Cummins-
Really neat to see that copy of "Shades of Blue"
By Cole and Wilcox, you got me running to see if i still have my copy.
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
All mine are gone, Locker stole them.
|
|
burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
I've got that bookshelf!
And maybe 1 shelf worth of some of those guidebooks.
burp
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!