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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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Blotto? aka Axis? (per the guide) Haven't been on that one. Always kind of mean to, but then I get my ass kicked on something else and well, don't quite get around to it.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Actually, the name Blotto was in currency before it was climbed.
Barber's name was Axis, I think. A rare instance of the first
ascentionist's name not being honored. I think it was a case of
Barber snagging somebody else's project, like Fish Crack and
Butterballs.
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WBraun
climber
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On the first pitch of the gripper coming out of that alcove do not go right. Go straight up and that is called gripped. A variation to that first pitch.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I had an instant memory flash when Bruce mentioned the gorilla on the Gripper. Anyone remember who put it in there?
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Schmitz told me that they used aid on the first ascent of
English Breakfast.
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WBraun
climber
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One day we took monkey from Gripper.
We brought him to C4 to R.I.P.
Then there was some homo book in the back reaches of the belay on the top of the first pitch. Who put there?
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Mimi
climber
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Regular comedians leaving gay porn in a crack.
Dug up my old journal Werner. 7/14/86, Leanie Meanie, one fall at top section, first pitch New D, felt hard, gassed. Werner soloed the rest.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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I remember that there is a strenuous 5.10a OW section just after the tied-off chockstone on Leanie Meanie. Only had one 3.5" cam left and then had to OW to the anchors, which was fine except that the 3.5" turned upside down behind me. Have never forgotten that I should have brought along an extra 4" piece. What a fall if you didn't make it to the anchors!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Back when all we had were hexes and stoppers, I remember on-sighting Midterm with four pieces of pro. Got a #7 Chouinard stopper(old size) just past the crux at the bottom; a #8 hex just before the hands section; a #9 hex just before the fist section and a #11 hex off the ledge on the right before it gets wide.
Nowadays, I don't even get out of the car without doubles on all cam sizes! How did we get up things in those days:-)
Bruce
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Aahh, you're finally getting into the wide stuff.
I knew it was only a matter of time.
You should highlight Cream in your ol Reid book.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Hi, (Scuffy, Chappy, Warbler)
Right. Schmitz and Fredericks used aid on the FA of English Breakfast Crack way back in the summer of 1966. The FA party as you note, did admit the discrepancy though. The first free ascent was by Bridwell, and the second ascent by me, 1971. It was supposed to be a semi-horror route for quite awhile. The guidebook "error" never seemed to get corrected in the subsequent editions. I liked the route, found it 5.10C at most, and thought it was very interesting and reasonably protected. Liked the trick no hands rest up high too, after the main bunch of liebacks.
Best, PH
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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When I did English Breakfast, the tricky no-hands rest had just
been "improved" by removal of extra hummock material. So, at that
time, Nov 77, it was a straightforward knee lock for the rest.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Kevin and I were going to call it Axis. Henry's name was Blotto (SP??) or whatever. I never did the second pitch either but I did the first on several occasions and always thought it was pretty cool.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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It's not Axis?
I remember looking up at that second pitch from the belay atop pitch 1; sort of filled in with dirt and grass and stuff, maybe some FP's.
Incipient cracks right?
The second pitch is not the typical Arch Rock pitch.
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WBraun
climber
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I've done the whole route (both pitches blotto, Axis) several times and it's very good route.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mark/Blinny
Klemens really had back problems by this point, and I've got to add that today he is really debilitated by constant serious back disability down in So. CA. It's true he was not faking a thing on your ascent. The trouble was beginning.
He was a very close friend of Bridwell and mine in those early 70's days, fierce as hell and insanely funny, and really honest with his friends. Since I was a ruthless "nicknamer" I started calling him the Goat, and JB loved that, so we just called him The Goat for years, even to his face. Your story is hilarious, and it tells us a bunch about how direct, witty and practical the SOB was. We loved him; he was brilliant, powerful and subtle. Very cool.
Best PH
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WBraun
climber
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Well you know that back injury actually ended Klemens climbing career. Actually it ended his career completely. He couldn't barely even walk anymore.
He was hosed and ended up in LA at a computer terminal for the last 30 years.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Where is Marck K. right now? Does anyone know. He was a very gentle soul if you got to know him.
JL
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Anticipation is pretty cool; definitely some tricky stuff rounding that little blocky thing as I recall.
I like that colorful picture of Spencer on it from George's book.
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WBraun
climber
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Largo
I believe Klemens works for Raytheon Corp. in LA.
I have his email address if you want it.
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