Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
|
I love that peapod pic.
Z
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
|
Didn't know I was being pestered! I'll post up some more pics here in a bit.
Rick
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
|
That's some classic shite from classic folks. Imagine all those lives and experiences.
JL
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
|
too good to go away
Great shots!
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
|
I missed this before. Thanks, Rick! P.M. broken plumbing bump!
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
|
I think steve posted the the climb I've been thinking of. I also think the guy above the post from steve g. is on the same climb.
Robbinhood Arete.
That might be the one that has been bugging me since this thread and that other grit one started.
Way cool- some day I'll be back.
|
|
Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:47am PT
|
Hi All!
How lucky can one get? This thread has been bumped from obscurity while my mates and I were on our now-regular pilgrimage to the Grit!
Just got back and thought maybe a few teaser pics would be in order.
Let's see...
You can always count on British weather to put the STORM into 'storming up a climb'
The pictures are not as nice as the ones from '85 but the climb sure is just as beautiful. Right Unconquerable, Stanage.
Gritstone par excellence: Thomas the Robot surprising his belayer with a jump off Nosferatu, Burbage South.
The guidebook says of an E4 6a (approx. 5.11a-b) offwidth climbed by Whillans in '58: "The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that isn't really the point."
Thomas the Robot proving he isn't all that crazy on Goliath, Burbage South.
How hard would this thing be without the pinscars of years of misuse as an aid route? Sadly, we'll never know. Bence on London Wall, Millstone.
The lads contemplating the future of climbing.
So much for now. Hope to have some more pictures in shortly.
If you think I should have posted a separate TR thread, you're probably right, but I want people to see all the cool old dadz that have gone before us.
Lasti
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 11:56am PT
|
Wow, Lasti, thanks for the pic of Kelly's Overhang. I was at Stanage on a rainy day (big surprise) in '81 and that was only one of two routes we ticked.
Also made it to Millstone Edge for a day and drooled over London Wall but it was still pretty wet. Didn't stop my host from bouldering some tall 5c called Edge Lane or something like that. Grit is just awesome. If you could guarantee some good weather to boot, I'd go back in a minute.
I've always been amazed at how the Brits look so pasty and frail but pull down so hard. BTW, that .11a/b Whillans put up is called Erosion Groove if memory serves me correctly.
|
|
Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
|
Fat Dad,
Kelly's Overhang is an exceptional route, especially taking into account that it's E1 5c or about 5.10b-c-ish and was put up in 1926.
London Wall has probably received its fair share of drooling, I know we've contributed plenty. Edge Lane is a very nice arete right by its Super-Star neighbor Master's Edge and almost as intriguing.
By the way, the Whillans OW is called Goliath, and once you face it you will feel like someone armed with a sling in the face of a giant Philistine warrior. Except in this story Goliath more often than not wins.
Lasti
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
|
Re the Whillans' route, Goliath, thanks for the clarification. Having said that, this is another route called Erosion Groove, a hard to protect or unprotected .11 that Whillans also put up around the same time, probably after a long night of hard drinking. Hardman, total hardman.
|
|
GibO
Trad climber
Breckenridge
|
|
Wow, the photos bring back great old memories of climbing on grit. Used to correspond fairly frequently with Al Manson. Glad to hear he is doing well.
Trees, yes, it appears that in areas with extended human habitation, the vegetation and and soil fertility have a tendency to disappear.
|
|
Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
|
Wow, seeing the Willians OW reminded me of the tale of his first trip to Yosemite.
Was anybody at the base of Pharaoh's Beard when he layed it away?
Good story - true???
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
|
It's all true!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
|
Kinda like T M laybacking the Hollow Flake on the first repeat attempt!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
|
The movie from the third ascent (Long, Steck, someone) showed Hollow Flake being liebacked also.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 13, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
|
They don't call him Tough Mother for nothing...Whillans neither! LOL
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
Lunge for the bump!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2011 - 03:53am PT
|
Repeating some of the Grit classics are on what's little left of my bucket list. I really wanna do White Wall and Prophet of Doom.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2011 - 03:59am PT
|
Oh, and Boysen's "The Thing" on some southern sandstone near London. Been on my mind for going on 40 years. When I think back to my trips to France, it occurs to me I shoulda gone to Britan. Oh well.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!