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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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how about heading right around the corner to train on underclingon at Pat and Jack?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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thanks, is is excellent Beta, do not delight it.
And Undercligton at Pat and Jack is really close and around the corner. Probably much harder than undercling on CC ?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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I fell on it in '79, on a toprope. Since then, I've been waiting until the time is right.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 27, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
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Was remembering Croft's part in Moving over Stone, where he crosses the creek and starts up the cobbles, cordless.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 27, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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I was there on the First real ascent of "The Cringe"
Bachar Kauk Bard, me & anyone else (I can't remember).
Jardine said it couldn't be done with hexes.
Kauk told him we'll have to prove you wrong.
Bachar and Kauk flip for the lead.
Bachar wins and says "I'll lead until I'll get pumped and then Ron can try it.
Bachar flashes. LOL
Jardine walks away ......
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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Werner, it looks like Ray Jardine was guarding all routes he climbed with the friends, waiting for Ron to show up with hexes:
For those of you who want some interesting history about hang dog flyer here goes.
I went there with Kauk to watch him do the second ascent. When out of the woods came Ray Jardine who as you know, did the first ascent. He tells Ron he’ll never do it without friends. Now at this time in history there are none. Ray is the only person that has them since he’s the inventor and they haven’t been manufactured yet. As I recall we’ve never even seen them yet.
We go over and check these things out that would later revolutionize the state of protection in climbing. Ray tells Ron that he can use the ones he brought. Ron politely declines with the understanding that since no one else has them that he’ll continue to use what’s available to everyone else, “Hexes”. Ray’s now kind of disappointed and tells Ron you’ll never do it with hexes. Just the words Ron wanted to hear at that moment. Ron is now determined to prove Ray wrong.
Ron goes on to lead the second ascent of hang dog flyer with hexes.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=66702&tn=0&mr=0
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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I can maybe see hexes on the Cringe if you run the upper part out a bit, but Hangdog Flyer? Was it a Yo-Yo'd lead or did he flash it? Pretty impressive either way though.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Sep 28, 2011 - 12:46am PT
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 19, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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Bump!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Nov 16, 2017 - 03:28pm PT
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". . . Bachar flashes . . . " On hexes! Oh yeah, times have changed.
This climb was the definition of 12a. Yeah right newbs, try it with hexes and EBs!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 16, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
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Oddly enough, after their entire self-mutilation vacation came to an end, I can’t clearly recall whether the old gods smiled and were sated at the bloodletting allowing the lads passage or not. Once Friends could be had by one and all, the price of submission moved elsewhere leaving to the mists of time the hard sought gains of three brave men, Friendless in the embrace of the Crimson Cringe.
Excellent writing bump.
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