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BlazeOn
Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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Feb 23, 2007 - 11:24am PT
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I think "Nate" said it a while back that lots of stuff in the boone area lends itself to hard mantels (mantles). Slopey topouts. Always trips me out when some sik strong gym kid comes out and casually cranks difficult problems only to get to the mantle topout and whimper, cry, fall off and then claim "Nice send" ha ha ha. At Hound Ears Comp its like every 3rd person. Its a trip!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 23, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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My vote goes to mantel. A mantel is a shelf. The original climbing term I remember hearing back in the 1970s was to do a "mantelshelf" move.
A mantle is a cloak, a coat.
Here's Adam Wainwright cruising Pinch Overhang at Horsetooth. It might not be a mantel, but it ain't no mantle.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 23, 2007 - 11:33am PT
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Bachar wrote: "Largo could outpress anybody in his prime on a pure "gnarly" press out type mantel."
Mighty gracious of you John, but Shawn Curtis could out press me any day of the week. I bouldered with Shawn a lot during the early 70s and it was simply ridiculous what he could press out. How about those super nasty sloper ones that turned a lip, where your legs were tucked under the overhand and you'd get a horrendoud cramp in your quad. On those, Shawn would just turn sideways in the air and hoist it like a flag going up. Then he'd pack the bong . . .
Another thing, those pics just above on the Pinch show how climbing technique has changed over the years. In the early 70s we used to mantle that sloper THEN put our foot up. Now the foot goes up and the modern climber rocks over.
Oh, and what about that weird mantel (mantle, as in cloak) at the end of the Acrobatic Overhang (a problem that pre-crash pads used to rarely get done owing to the nasty fall off said mantel at the end). Not super duper hard but don't fall.
JL
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Feb 23, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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Another "King of the mantles" was (Dr.) Dick Schockley. Back in the day he probably rivaled (Sean)Curtis.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Feb 23, 2007 - 01:00pm PT
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Johnny, if it's a pure mantel I'm guessing that NO climber (ancient or modern) can throw a foot up first. That Pinch problem above looks to be a kind of lieback, not a press-out mantel. Remember how Ben Borsen used to press-out the Rubidoux mantels and, then, carefully put the foot BETWEEN the two hands to finish up? The Berkeley Style thing...
Gotta add my vote for Largo for mantels in his prime. ...one of the best. I recall how Peter Haan (many moons ago) praised JL as being one of the "most powerful climbers he ever had seen in the Valley" after showing me one of those obscure pure mantels of Largo's behind C4. (And Peter was no stranger to pure power...)
Other obscure mantels? How 'bout Fool On the Hill up in Baldy Canyon? (I'd add Gibo Mantel to the list, but I just saw Henny crank that off last Fall so maybe it's not that hard. He's old! (Duck, cover and hold.))
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Feb 23, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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There's a problem in C4 that I've heard refered to as "the pit stop mantle" it is just left and uphill from Ament Arete. there is a faint "knob" in the middle of a blank slab that caps a short overhang, thing is des-pirate. Did purple barrel second try for comparison, I've got many goes and zero progress on this rig. Anyone know what I'm talking about or have any luck?
There are some difficult presses in the southeast as well. Stingray comes to mind at HP40.
-Justin
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 23, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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Largo, what about the bowling ball mantle in telluride. do you remember that thing. I show up there in 79 when you and "Mama" are guiding for Robbins. You take me to this overhanging boulder dotted with cobbles, some as big as bowling balls. You start throwing this hugh double handed dyno for the "bowling ball" and after a few attempts somehow hold on to the big sloping bowling ball and then if I remember correctly, turn over some burly ass mantle. I will never forget that whole experience. To this day I still cannot believe what I saw. Hoo maannn!!! As for Rubidoux, go try the Muzzle Loader. Can't remember for sure but, the C*#k may have been the first one to do it. You pull down on an edge and then turn it over, mantling on the edge of your left little finger. Then step onto the same edge and stand up. Poor landing and no pads allowed. For real entertainment, take Bolton down to the Wall of Glass and ask him to Roll Up The Window (old school 10b) for you. Powell
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Feb 23, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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My vote's with you, too, John.
When I first started climbing I bought that "How to Rock Climb" video and there you are, mantling some chunk of granite in Yosemite like the laws of gravity weren't part of your culture.
Only after I learned how to climb somewhat did I come to understand just how incredibly superhuman that little mantle of yours was.
Yowza!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Feb 23, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
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KP said, "...take Bolton down to the Wall of Glass and ask him to Roll Up The Window..."
Actually, I think that's a Rubidoux 10a, Kevin. (Maybe 5.10 minus, on the outside.)
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Feb 23, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
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EASY, Powell...
You're gonna have to wear the dress and dance again.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Feb 23, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
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Boltman said, "You're gonna have to wear the dress..."
Can we get some video, this time?! Huh? I understand there's this thing called YouTube where you can post .avi files or summat. (Damn. I bet people would pay to see that!)
Henny and I'll bring the camera...
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Robb
Social climber
Under a Big Sky
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Feb 23, 2007 - 06:02pm PT
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Hardest?
Anything Altman said was hard.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 23, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
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Talking about the Wall of Glass, how about the Surrealistic Pillar, done by Paul Gleason in about 1909 in those hideous red PAs. Hard ass mantel on that one.
And Damn, I forgot about the Gibo mantel. Very, very slick. You had to press it out about a centimeter at a time or you'd ping off.
And Powell, or course I remember the Bowling Ball mantel. I'd been trying it for like a month straight before I finally got it that day with you and "Mama." That one was extra burly, and very difficult to stick. So far as I remember I only got that one the one time, and not for lack of trying.
Also, someone mentioned that super slick mantel by Ament's Arete. I could get that about once out of a thousand tries. My hand would always slip off the bugger.
Lastly (I could go on and on here), Ben Boreson (circa 1971/2) could also do those hideious fingertip dime mantels like nobodies bidness.
But how about Gill's Acrobatic Overhang up in Boulder Cyn.??? Nobody is speaking up about that one.
JL
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t steele
climber
bish
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Feb 23, 2007 - 06:30pm PT
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I can't believe nobody has mentioned midnight lightning's mantle yet. It isn't the hardest, but it sure spits enough people off and it is harder than purple barrle.
As for planet caravan, I sent that rig not long after jeremy did it, and there was no real mantle going on that I can remember. ALso, I don't think it was ever called V9.
In bish, I'd say the most classic mantle challenge is at the top of pope's prow. 5.10+ in the old guide...
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Feb 23, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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There's a saying I heard at Jailhouse last weekend. Pretty close to verbatim but not quite-here's the gist. "In the seventies there was the mantle, the eighties the rose move, the nineties had the drop knee, but it's the kneebar that brought us to the new millenium."
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desert dirtbag
climber
crested butte, co
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Feb 23, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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Don't have any photos, and don't know if it's the most difficult, but the "Wilson mantle"(or "mantel") at Big Bend, is one of the most unique moves I have ever seen. Word is it's only been done by a few people. Won't give away the beta.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 24, 2007 - 02:04am PT
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Not the hardest by any means, but an integral part of the route (and the crux), is the mantel on the first pitch of Athlete's Feat, Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. I think it got harder over the years as little flakes to pull on broke off, forcing a more pure mantel technique.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 25, 2007 - 11:33pm PT
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Bolton: The next time Powell tries to get you to go to the Wall of Glass - tell him you'll do Roll Up the Window if he shows you how to do A Perfect Stranger first.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Feb 26, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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God Blessed be! That darn Shawn Curtis could virtually dis-locate his shoulders to to press out some petty sick shite........
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 26, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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One of the most exiting mantles I've witnessed on a route would have to be Powell on the FA of El Goucho in the Whitney Portal. About 30' out on the second pitch he found a small pothole and mantled into it. After matching a foot in the hole he started to leg press, only to come to a complete halt. Seems he had inadvertently stepped directly into the sling around his neck that had the drill on it and couldn't finish standing up. There he was, looking at a huge fall, trying to reach down and half reverse the mantle so he could get his foot out of the sling. Fortunately he remained totally calm (yeah, right...), never raised his voice (yeah, right...), and was able to recover. Quite an exiting mantle, that one was.
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