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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 21, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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On the (side-) (off-) topic of shoes...
RR's worked pretty well in the Gunks, but RD's were better. Kronhofer's, which were popular out West, were not good for steep edging. Spider's were better because they were stiffer, Zillertals not quite so good.
And yes, Kamps wore Cortinas, which wouldn't qualify nowadays as a good approach shoe. But there are plenty of folks sketched out of their minds in their latest high-tech footwear trying to follow Kamps' Cortina-shod ascents...
I thought RR's excelled as "mountaineering" boots. I recall hiking in (that's right, no effin' canoe) and climbing both the regular South Buttress and the South Buttress East of Mt. Moran in them, as well as the complete Exum Ridge on the Grand. Here, the top of the Black Face:
We used 'em in the Wind Rivers:
And on lots of routes in the Bugaboos. Smear 'em with SnoSeal every morning for the glaciar hike, cover 'em with high gaitors, and off you go.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
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This only goes to prove that Off Width climbing is brutal and should only be taken on by the not-so-faint-of-heart.
Keep those pictures comin'. I just like seeing people in the pits of hell!!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Offwidth is easy...comedy's hard.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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I just flew in from Lucille...and boy are my arms tired.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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Ain't it the truth, yonk.
oh, yo,yo,yo...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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"First rule of Invert.... nobody talks about invert...."
anyone ever do the one below without inverting?
yeah, yeah, the tape thing, what can I say? a month on the high plains ensures evulsions.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2007 - 12:16am PT
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Blue knuckles and blue boots on the high plains....boy howdy.
And only Dick Cilley would call you a pussy for the shredwrap!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 22, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 24, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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Hilarious Roy. I know I've almost looked like that on a few.
Calling Largo....please tell us about your frolick with the Harding Slot.
The great (but never late) Eric Goukas had a similar time on it because he was too large to fit inside.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
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You think that's too aggressive for a proper tape job Mimi?
While we're waiting for more burly OW posts, here's one fer the sub-topic, stiff old school boots.
Sheesh, Roger says no one climbed hard free in them; why here I am about to cast off into Astroman's enduro corner:
(Ok, maybe it's the 5.7 summit pitch on Matterhorn Peak)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 24, 2007 - 07:22pm PT
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That looks like the Enduro Corner to me--only looking down. Weird perspective. Must be the boots and hat. (You can do an inverted 'iron cross'? Then, you can climb in RRs.)
Buzz
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:25am PT
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Alright Largo,
Here's the chickeneye view up into the beast. Should get the old time offwidth juices just a bubbling up right quick I reckon.
Pictured is Hugh Herr en route to the worst case of bloody knees that I can recall. The wonderous lad had only led two chimney pitches at any grade prior to throwing himself at this infamous pitch! An afternoon jaunt hauling a pack in five hours. It doesn't get better than Astroman.......really!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:40am PT
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Each time squirreling into that slot, I've been absolutely flabbergasted by the reports of others, even imagining the remote propositon of actually going outside that thing: absolutely NFW.
Nice shot Steve. I wish I had some. I wonder if we have enough Taco'ers holdin' to float an AstroThread.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:51am PT
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Regge Pole...
The one I did was in Little Slide Canyon...
Hope the East Face Dihedrals never sees a repeat.
Cr@p route.
But it did have lots (and lots) of OWs!!
Brutus (no photos, too gripped)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 25, 2007 - 01:06am PT
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What Tar said, it's not that narrow(?)
now you're a tease Brucus.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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Steve
I think you flipped the slide in the scanner the wrong way.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 02:19am PT
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Thanks Werner, all better now. That might've really messed with Largo's head.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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Hey it worked perfect for my dislexic memory.
I just figured you were all twisted around something awful to get a look up at Hugh.
I recall seeing a topo by Collins, where he called going outside the slot an 11D layback? Off what edge? Looks quite rounded; talk about the all time lead screamer potential.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2007 - 11:34am PT
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Another shot from that early-70s era of tube chocks, blue jeans and PAs: the Bishop Offwidth (5.11a).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Roy, when I was following that pitch and got to the jug that allows you a brief repose before jumping into the granite anus, I fumbled and dropped the biner after unclipping from the fixed wire. I made the mistake of watching it fall, and fall, and fall, and vertigo set in. The biner never hit rock and made a little dust cloud. At that point, anything looked better than what was above, but I had to get back to it.
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