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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I don't get how their primary anchor blowing resulted in a 30ft fall?? the back up should have been engaged allmost imeadiatly, not 30ft of slack in the system ??? Also don't get how you can forget what you rapped off of just because you witnessed a piece blow??? watched my partner take a 300footer on mt washington 20 years ago and all the details of that trip are still pretty vivid........
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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I'm curious regarding the moosalette picture posted above. What do you do with a setup like that if the piece on the right has to be situated 2/3 of the way down towards the power point for the best placement? Or what if your anchor is in a single straight in crack, three pieces in a row one above the other? Your example of an anchor with all three pieces in optimal placements which happen to be right at the same level seems rare to me...
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
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Hey, take this serious sh!t to the proper thread! We'll have none of that stuff here.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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You know Jan, any conversation centered around something called a "moosalette" can't be too serious..
(Sounds like a cross between an animal from the northern wilds and a dancer from Radio City Music Hall... The mind boggles.)
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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Kris, it is the webolette and has been discussed at length in this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=307091
Did you see the rig that LJ was equalizing anchors with last weekend? Pretty sweet setup if you are into that sort of thing.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Didn't notice LJ's rig...
Saw the other thread, even tried getting in on the conversation but that crowd is too serious for me.. :-)
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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I am sure I could rappell the whole regular route on Half Dome using only a single cam for each anchor.
JDF
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Ksolem: What do you do with a setup like that if the piece on the right has to be situated 2/3 of the way down towards the power point for the best placement?
This anchor is a poor choice for that.
Or what if your anchor is in a single straight in crack, three pieces in a row one above the other?
Works fine, try it. I just used that pic because it shows what's going on. Imagine trying to make head or tail of that anchor with three pieces in a vertical crack. And even as it is, it confounds most of the knuckleheads here. ;)
Sorry to be so far off-topic, Gnome!
GO
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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So then....the Moos-O-Lario is actually a thread hijacking mechanism. Nothing whatsoever to do with climbing. It's very versatile. Put that picture in ANY thread, and you divert traffic like a lit up "Hot Donuts Now" sign at the Krispy Kreme.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Juan says:
"I am sure I could rappell the whole regular route on Half Dome using only a single cam for each anchor."
I am sure you are right. At least one thing is for certain, you will get down...
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Russ - is that anything like my mess-o-lette ?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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How do you guys have any gear left to protect the actual climbing?
You ever read the story about Bridwell and Mugs getting off the Mooses Tooth. The last Rappell was off a #1 Cam with only one lobe in camming off ice.
JDF
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dufas
Trad climber
CA/NV
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great. when (a) i can climb like bridwell, (b) need to flaunt risk to feel worthwhile, (c) my wife and child don't matter anymore; then i'll use a one lobe rappel also. what is your point?
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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Careful there AC, it might have actually been a sweet potato. They are mighty hard to tell apart once stuffed into an OW.
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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I have you all beat hands down!!!
When I did a study abroad program in South Africa, I joined the Mountaineering and Ski Team (They had no snow there, don't ask me why they put it in the title.) and one of our outings was to table mountain. We were two parties of 6 and every belay on this 9 pitch route was one cam or one cam and a nut. Talk about "Shady", but they were all so chill that you forgot about all that "proper book learning stuff". Oh yeah! The rope I was tied into, was 16 yrs old- tell that to bluewater!.
It was my birthday and I dislocated my ankle on the way down, making it one of the best climbing days of my life.
-Dirka
P.S. It is not about the suffering, but all about the story afterwards!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Happie wrote: So then....the Moos-O-Lario is actually a thread hijacking mechanism. Nothing whatsoever to do with climbing. It's very versatile. Put that picture in ANY thread, and you divert traffic like a lit up "Hot Donuts Now" sign at the Krispy Kreme.
I think all you need to do is utter the sacred words: "So it seems there's some controversy about anchors."
... and the skies begin to go black, and the clouds to boil.
GO
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sh#t we used to top rope at stoney using tent pegs driven deep into the mud tied off. If the pegs went in at least a few inches it was bomber.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
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Yummm, grilled yam slices sprinkled with curry seasoning! Mmmmmmmmm!
And no, a sweet potato just wouldn't be the same.
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Sh#t Juan, We used to do a pendulum while rappeling, then in mid-pendi do a 360 to land cat-like back on our feet on the other side of our arc. All at Stoney, all with Goldline.
Stupid Dumb-sh#tz!!
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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what is that woman feeding that kid ? why is he so scared ? how does this sell me yams ? i'm confused...
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