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SoSAD
climber
Appleton, WI
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Shelton can you translate into non-climber english exactly what you found out. In simple terms, if I can read between the lines, that all the equipment was in tact and connected properly, except for the connection to Ian. His "off belay" was his instruction that he was ready?
I know absolutely zero about climbing but have been trying to find out any information I can for my friend - Ian's father should he desire to know details.
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BringYourOwnTR!
climber
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Wow, that is very unfortunate. Thank you for posting all the details.
I did have a question though. You said that the party next to them heard him say "off belay". If that's true, then did his belayer not say "you're off" in response? I would think that if Ian heard this, that he would respond to his belayer "no, no, that's not what I meant". Also, are we sure that he in fact said "off belay" and not another climber next to him? I know how close and crowded that area can be and it can get confusing on communicating to your partner with a lot of other climbers right next to you.
Regardless, a very unfortunate accident.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Thanks for sharing Shelton. That clears things up a lot.
Condolences to his friends and family coming here.
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schilds
Trad climber
eastside
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To SoSAD: Please check your email re: climbing to english translation.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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That is a touching and beautiful memorial. I am sorry you lost your friend. A reminder how precious our time here is, and how much it means to live well and fully.
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Adam--Really beautiful and touching memorial to Ian. I'm sincerely sorry for your loss.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Indeed, that was a very nicely done memorial.
This is truly heartbreaking - so young, and with so much ahead of him.
Definitely a reminder to make the most of each and every day.
RIP, bro.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Busy the last few days, I didn't look at this thread til just now. Clearly, Ian was a guy well-loved by many people and will be missed deeply. My heartfelt prayers go out to you all. I grew up in Wisconsin, with a sister still in DePere. Even though I probably don't know any of you, I still feel a loss.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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My deepest condolences for Ian's family and friends.
I must remind everyone in this forum that we have all done mistakes while climbing. We should all be wary in this sport. I for one always check John's handiwork even though he is the "Great John Bachar."
In fact wasn't it Lynn Hill that didn't finnish her figure 8 and almost lost her life?
This goes to show that Ian's mistake could happen to anyone...
AF
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don'thaveone
climber
bishop
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Thanks for sharing for the video. I hope that you, his family, and the people with him during the accident may find peace.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Greg...fire me your telephone number.... Mick
mick@ukclimbing.com
Condolances.....very sad.
Mick in the UK
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fallenclimber
Trad climber
Davis, California
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Feb 10, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
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Adam: Thanks for your time and effort in producing a wonderful, touching, moving and well-done memorial and tribute to an individual who was clearly living his life well.
From one who once, after a fall, for reasons that need not be mentioned, hung suspended, along with his buddy, from a single, upside down piton, staring down 2000 feet to the Yosemite Vally floor and out to the near horizon of his mortality:
To Ian: an offering of respect and remembrance to a fellow traveler who chose climbing as one of his means to seek adventure, to explore his life, and to share camaraderie with others of like mind. Peace be with you. May you be long remembered.
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Russ S.
climber
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Feb 10, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
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My condolences to Ian's family and friends..
Since no one else has comment on: "I did have a question though. You said that the party next to them heard him say "off belay". If that's true, then did his belayer not say "you're off" in response? I would think that if Ian heard this, that he would respond to his belayer "no, no, that's not what I meant".
When my partner says "off belay", I don't respond with "you're off" (or "belays off") until he/she is free from my belay and can pull up the rope as needed. However, I do look up to see that they are resting on the anchors. This has been my practice for many years and consistant with how I see most people doing it. The exception is, if the person wants to be lowered, then I don't really take them off, just feed out slack so they can feed the rope through the anchor.
What do others do?
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AdamWundrow
Boulder climber
WIsconsin
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Feb 10, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
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I wish this forum on Ian Mack would never end. I know we must move on and I can do that by using his life as my inspiration and passion to be incredible. I am ready to momorialize Ian in my own life by living that life to the absolute fullest that only he would approve.
I am sincerely mournful and as is his family and friends here in Wisconsin. His wake had a line to the door for 6 hours straight. In the years that he lived - he affected, influenced, inspired everyone he met. I will live on and do what he would do. Being a best friend - I think I know his thoughts. If anyone has any ideas or thoughts or contacts that would help me live a memorial to him - please send me your love.
One more thing - before he died he told me to watch "Monumental" a documentary on David Brower. He said that I wuold really like it, and I fell in love with the movie of course. and as a soul who loved music he provided me with all the beautiful tunes that were being created past and present. I told him that I wanted the soundtrack to Monumental. And he responded "so do I" - We didn't get that soundtrack and I have been told that it may not exist. If anyone has the music please send it my way - to awundrow@gmail.com or 2620 N. weil st. #4, Milwaukee, WI 53212.
The video I posted is the first of many more- peace and love.
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Chateau Rico
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 10, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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Response to Russ, et al: My condolescences also. Wow is climbing fraught with these sad stories.
ORG experts Marty and Greg chimed in, but having climbed there dozens of times and a few go's on Love Stinks, I can imagine the challenges of communicating on that route. Clearly the accident resulted from a communication error, and on that route, the leader finishes quite high and just over a bulge. The belayer, either on the ledge or on the ground, is standing fairly close to the noisy Owens River. So, although it's been a couple years ago, I'd imagine that normal voice communication didn't work for either party. Normally that results in more careful assumptions regarding the belay/ lower, but a lot of the discussion in this thread about good practice or standard practice probably doesn't address what happened that day. My guess is they didn't hear each other, then both made the wrong assumption.
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Beth Thomas and Joe Dengler
climber
Terrebonne, Oregon
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Feb 12, 2007 - 04:58pm PT
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We left for a week following the accident; we just realized today there was a online forum. In addition to Shelton's posting, here is what we also witnessed.
We had been at an area just downstream and were walking up to the Banana Belt to meet with friends, arriving within minutes after the accident. A local climber ran to the top of the Gorge to call. As we came up, another climber was asking for a cell phone, we advised them of the 911 phone on the fence at the Middle Gorge Power Plant, 100 yards away. Please read page 44 of the current guide book. Per Bob Mitchell (of DWP who was very fast on the scene and unlocked the gate at the top of the Middle Gorge Road) the chain-of-command is set up thru the phone and must be used so that the gate can be opened. DWP answers this emergency phone first and they are there 24 hour/7 days a week /365 days a year. DWP is on the scene first to unlock the gate - the ambulance does not have a key; although the fire truck does. Per Bob, there is also a 911 phone at the dam, upstream of the upper gorge.
The route that Ian had climbed was Paradise, a 5.9 which is a few routes right of Love Stinks. Piecing together what everyone overheard, what the gear retriever discovered, and what the system looked like after - it sadly, really must have been due to his human error; not the belayer, and not a gorge anchor. He asked to be taken Off Belay. It appears he later sat back in the rope, forgetting he had asked to be taken off.
The dozen or so climbers there were so helpful to care for Ian. It never seems as though the Gorge is a remote place. The response time from the 911 calls to the arrival of EMS was approxiamtely 40-45 minutes, in our guess. Our hearts go out to the family and friends.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 12, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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Very nice video tribute, Adam. I have memory associations with many of those places in Utah and I learned to climb at Devil's Lake, not to mention a bunch of climbing @ the gorge, all of which brings me closer to ian, who I can now in an increasing way identify with, though I don't think I ever met him.
Thanks and again, condolences and best wishes to all involved.
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mtsun
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Feb 12, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
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I am glad to see that several people have clarified what happened. I too was at the Pub wall and helped with Ians evac.
My heart filled condolescences to his friends, family, and especially his climbing partner, who in no way was responsible for what happened.
Adam- Thank you for the beautiful tribute to our Ian. Rumor has it that he was moving to the Bishop area. We would have loved to have him as a part of our community and our saddened by his premature departure. Continue to explore and relish in nature as he would have wanted you to. You are in our thoughts.
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Mia
climber
Moab,
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Feb 13, 2007 - 02:01am PT
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Adam
It's been a sad week in Moab. We lost a very special friend. Ian touched our hearts with his smile and exceptional personality. He was one of the kindest young men I have ever met. He tutored my daughter in math and always encouraged her to do her best. He gave new meaning to the word passion. I am also close to Erika, and know that she has lost her best friend as well. The two were such a sweet couple. I just knew they would be together forever. Please give condolences to Ian's family from his friends in Moab-He had many! By the way your video was very nice, I know Ian would have loved it as much as he loved you. Peace be with you.
Mia
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