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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks for the TIFF interviews. Alex comes across as unflappable and responsive. I like how intently he seems to pay attention to the audience questions. And how directly and humorously he answers them.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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A compelling film, although many might wish that there was more climbing footage.
It was odd that the film didn't mention that Freerider is simply a major variant of the Salathe Wall - the route of that name, that is, not the entire SW face. Robbins, Frost and Pratt were there first. National Geographic is supposed to be about science, geography and history...
Likewise, the lack of mention of climbing soloists elsewhere in the world was a bit jarring. Hansjörg Auer jumps to mind, as a modern example.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Anders, I think what Chai wanted in her doc was to make it compelling by telling Alex's story from various other people. If it was just a climbing film like Dawn Wall was, it wouldn't be as appealing to the general public. Alex is a unique person who needed to have his backstory and motivations to why he free solos told. His moments with his girlfriend provided an indelible outlook into his psyche in general. The payoff was his solo and we got that in spades at the end.
There aren't any climbers of his caliber who could free solo El Cap. Brad Gobright is the closest there is right now. Lonnie Kauk can free solo 5.13's but prefers to stay in Tuolumne. It doesn't seem like there's any other soloist out there who has free soloing the Captain on their radar. That was Alex's dream that others thought couldn't be pulled off. Mentioning other free soloists today wouldn't have added anything to the movie. Alex is the king and the focus of the movie.
Adam Ondra made a second ascent of the Dawn Wall in quick succession but didn't get the international attention. Just as whoever free solos El Cap won't get the same attention as Alex blazed an unthinkable trail.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Fluoride, I agree with your line of thinking regarding Alex's feat. While others are capable of soloing the 5.13 grade, Alex is the only one out there who is capable of doing it on a route as difficult, sustained, and insecure as Freerider. Brad isn't too far off, but stepping up to the big stone is a major leap.
If it were attainable, it would have been done long ago. It has been the biggest prize in climbing for quite some time. Given all of Alex Huber's history with the route, and the fact that he has soloed 14a, if it were even in the realm of doable it seems like he would have done it. Honnold is the only one who could actually wrap his head around going ropeless up there. I think it will be a very long time (if ever) until we see a repeat. Plus, the "prize" has already been taken. Honnold really is on a different level than everyone else.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2018 - 07:16am PT
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Tommy Caldwell has stated for the camera that "everyone who has made free soloing a big part of their life is dead now, I've had 30 to 40 friends who have died."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fufX32PJtYY&feature=youtu.be&t=2m16s
(BTW I can think of some serious free soloists who are still alive, Peter Croft comes to mind.)
There aren't any climbers of his caliber who could free solo El Cap. Brad Gobright is the closest there is right now. Lonnie Kauk can free solo 5.13's but prefers to stay in Tuolumne.
Interesting observation. I know Dean Potter wanted to do it, but don't know if anyone else has seriously considered doing it.
Tommy also wrote, "I hope others are inspired by Alex’s dedication to excellence and ability to live without fear, and less by his willingness to accept risk. We have lost far too many in our world already. In terms of talent, preparedness, and climbing composure, Alex is a true outlier. He brought an element of sanity to this climb that no one else could, or probably ever will again."
https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me
Given all of Alex Huber's history with the route, and the fact that he has soloed 14a, if it were even in the realm of doable it seems like he would have done it.
Agreed. Alexander Huber has written, "We knew that Alex was silently working on his plan to free solo El Capitan. So it was not a complete surprise that he finally made his dream come true. Still, it is mind-blowing that it finally happened. When I discovered the Freerider in 1995 as well as when Thomas and I free climbed it in 1998, a free solo ascent was still way out of the visible horizon. It was hard to imagine that El Capitan would be free soloed one day. With this, Alex raised free soloing to the next level. Another landmark in the climbing universe. But there are not many landmarks for which you could say: there is no other climber who would be able to repeat this performance these days. There are no other words: he is ahead of his time! Chapeau bas, Alex!"
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17s/newswire-honnold-freerider-solo
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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As with the Dawn Wall thread, it seems some of you are living somewhere between the forgotten past and la la land.
Nobody climbs the Salathe anymore nor do they care about its ancient history - they are climbing Freerider - sometimes with the Salathe Roof finish. If they aid the holi jesus out of it, they're not "aiding", they are "working the moves". If this confuses you, just check their Instagram, their blog, and their Facebook, it will all be explained.
As for Brad and Lonnie, you might want to catch up on Lonnie's present state of climbing fitness and maybe take a view of Safety Third to digest Brad's odds of dying while trying to keep up with Honnald before comparing - because there is no comparison. The crux of Hair Styles is about V3/4 to the Boulder Problem's V7 - for starters.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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About 300 people have successfully climbed K2; in the process, 80 climbers have died. It could be argued that Alex Honnold climbing El Cap without gear is less risky than K2 with gear. Avalanches and weather are much more outside our control than a particular move that goes for you 9 times out of 10.
Some years ago, John Long wrote that classic piece on free soloing with Bachar in JT. They did a large number of short climbs, and in botching a sequence, John related that he almost lost his life.
How do you assess risk on that venture, vs Alex on El Cap, or anyone on K2?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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I wish I could find the words to do justice to this incredible film and each person that was a part of its making. No words. Go watch it.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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I liked it that Alex bothered to get his hair cut by Sanni. She did a really fine job.
Totally different style of filmmaking from what we have seen from Jimmy. Open minds required for true appreciation of a love triangle between Alex, El Cap, and Sanni.
One thing for sure, Jimmy's film team is tight. They were so stoic about possible outcomes that it's hard to imagine how to deal, but they tell it well in some good inserts...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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About 300 people have successfully climbed K2; in the process, 80 climbers have died. It could be argued that Alex Honnold climbing El Cap without gear is less risky than K2 with gear. You're HAF. You have no idea what risk and danger even mean in climbing.
Take those 300 - or even better, pick the best 300 you can possibly find on the entire planet - see how many return from soloing El Cap.
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WBraun
climber
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see how many return from soloing El Cap.
Almost all of them have returned from soloing El Cap.
St00pid American can't distinguish the difference between FREE soloing and soloing .....
Muwahahahaha ......
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Saw the movie this afternoon, absolutely fantastic! 3 hours and 2 beers later and I'm still gripped. Great footage, great story, great editing. Incredible achievement by Alex, truly astounding!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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I wish the movie credits had an outtake with Werner saying what he typed above! :-)
ST gold!
Am so looking forward to seeing it!
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Unlikely to show here in Little Rock. Strange it has opened in freakin Columbus, OH but not in LR. It would have a small audience here, but freaking Columbus, OH?
Gonna have to drive to Tulsa or wait for the DVD.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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definitely worth seeing on a BIG screen
maybe they'll release a VR version to be viewed on an Oculus Rift... then you'll definitely need that chalk bag!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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"As for Brad and Lonnie, you might want to catch up on Lonnie's present state of climbing fitness and maybe take a view of Safety Third to digest Brad's odds of dying while trying to keep up with Honnald before comparing - because there is no comparison. The crux of Hair Styles is about V3/4 to the Boulder Problem's V7 - for starters."
JLP, Lonnie boulders V10/11. And I've seen Safety Third. All I'm saying is those guys are the hardest soloists out there these days but neither seems to have soloing El Cap on their radar. Lonnie is an undercover crusher you'd only know about through following his feats in Instagram stories. Brad has been willing to push the limits, but these days seems to be working on just freeing El Cap on rope. I think he was working on Golden Gate but bailed because of heat last week. Or possibly Freerider, was hard to tell in the dark from his stories.
It will be a while before anyone has the sack and psyche to do what Alex did. We all knew that if anyone could pull it off, it would be him after all of his other soloing achievements. And again, what is the payoff to risking your life only to be the second guy to do something like that. Alex said in the doc that it would be someone from the next generation coming up and he's likely right.
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