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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Tom I got a cure for your fever right here
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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LOL
Nice! I figured someone would catch the reference...
You been getting out Kartch?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The reference went right over My head.
Is that precambrian granite that you guys play on?
oops just saw the inverts, I'll have to go out there!
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Yeah Tom went to Yellowstone Last weekend and took pics of all sorts of large animals (elk, bison, big horn sheep) Tried to climb a few sweet cracks by the road but my pack boots not very helpful. Going to Utah this weekend though, I'm sure I'll find something to climb in the SLC area.
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Big
climber
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Still kicking despite a nasty sinus infection. Your pics are killin' me. Absolutely killin' me.
My wife laughed when I asked if we had any pics from the Butte days, and then reminded me how broke I was back then. One shot of us at Spire camping in the snow, another from one of the boulders above the interstate, and another of us up on the Dragon's Back. That seems to be it. I did find the notebook that I kept the topos in, but not a single topo left in there. Plenty of designs for unbuilt furniture and not a single topo. Sounds like we need to make a trip back out to Butte, visit some long forgotten problems, visit some old friends and make some new ones, and the take advantage of the incredibly cheap refreshements in town. I assume you can still have a big time in town for $20. We've been gone for about 10 years and a lot can change in a mountain town in that length of time.
The best problem I did was at Spire. Starts in a hole between 3 boulders and tops out on the tallest of them. Memory makes it seem like 30 feet tall, so I'm guessing it's about 15' with a bad landing on one of the lower boulders. Called it "$20 boots" after a comment that I heard about what it takes to be a cowboy.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jaybro, the batholith is Butte quartz-monzonite: an equigranular rock consisting of 35% plagioclase, 30% potassium feldspar, 20% quartz, 15% hornblende and biotite with minor accessory minerals. It varies in composition and quality across its span (approximately 200+ sq.mi.). At times it is similar to JTree, City o' Rocks, and Bishop granite. Face knobs and edges are the exception, but good concentrations can be found--usually it is the cracks (flaring to splitter, tips to OW) that make up the action.
Jaybro, out of curiousity, have you done the "Scimitar" OW up in Squamish ?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nice Mojede, more info then I could pull out....
Kartch - I expect pics!!
Big - Moj could tell you more about drink prices, but I think that's about right....Come out! I'd love a tour of the 'forgottens' !
Jay - You need to come out here too! Lots of OW probs, many that I can't even touch...They wouldn't be a 'steal', they'd be a gift.(referring to the stealing routes thread...)
Cheers to the Batholith!(is it beer:30 yet?)
Tom
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Big
climber
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Mo, you a graduate of Tech? Talking all fancy about those rocks.
Weather looks just as I remember it, lots of sun all winter long. Well as long as your not in Missoula. Febuary is mighty gray here in TN. 35 and sunny there is practically shorts weather.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Big, no "Techie", but my life as a native Montuckan has allowed me to collect mass beta on everything stone around here. I hail from "Deadrock" (Livingston), but my Dad is from Butte(Bozo now) and still has the family cabin (ca1910) up Passmore Canyon. I have Dwights red, purple, MAC, and current guide which has a fine geology section in it. In no way do I consider myself a Butte "local", but a lifetime visitor and appreciante. Aside from the Batholith there still much to be climbed including ovehanging Limestone and multi-pitch slab routes that are closeby in the area. The future and potential here is mind-boggling--and that's coming from someone whose resume has over 200 FA's in the Paradise Valley region. Too bad on those topos, we could have made you famous around here when the beta comes out, maybe still can.
edit, 52 degrees and bluebird here today--go el nino !
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I've never been to Squamish but that nearby (from here, anyway) montana state is on the list.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nice Jay!
Good to know that the backwaters can expect a visit from you!
Let us know.....
Tom
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Big
climber
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Famous in Butte could mean a lot of different things. Not all necessarily good. Has the climbing community remained a fairly small pond there? The solitude MT offered was spectacular, as long as you could round up a partner. That is one of the main reasons I bouldered so much while I was there. Mrs. Big was usually in class and my lack of employment kept the days free for whatever.
My lovely bride is a Tech grad, so osmosis has left me with a fair amount of rock knowledge as well. Butte was damn near the wild west when we were there. Craziness all the time. And St. Pat's day. WOW.
Edit: blows me away, still to this day. The high here was probably in the upper 30's.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
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Big: Hope you feel better soon. My flu started with the sinus thing. Take care of yourself. The flu ain't purdy.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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The rock community of "old schoolers" in nearly extinct. Gone is Wilson, Calhoun, Krueger(Missoula), Buck, Coster, Bishop(RIP) , and more from the 80's & 90's. Tech lures a few through its doors, but the local climbing gym keeps the drive alive.
St. Pat's is THE drinking street party to attend (even beats "Evel Kneivel Days", barely) even if you don't include the allowance of open containers .
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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TK consider some pics from last weekend posted!
lame? yes, but I wasn't really prepared to find a sweet fist crack.
This 'yoti wanted some food.
herd of Bison in the Lamar Vally.
Lazy Sunday Yo!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Kartch, is that the roadside 12 footer in Lamar ? That place is way sweet for bouldering--next time there, go farther from the road on top of that West hillside. You'll find a nice large boulder and top-rope 60' crag that is primo. I sometimes wish that I was still in Livingston so that I could snag all of those YNP FA'S just waiting off the road (walking off trail there has huge rewards).
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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10-4 Mojede that place looked sick for climbing. Next time I need to schedule more time for exploring the rock. Not only that but who knows there's probably a whole herd of elk or bison just over the hill as well.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I didn't post this one yesterday, but since Jaybro brought up inverts....
I tried this thing on Sunday...yikes...maybe next time...
EDIT:
Kartch - Nice pics!
Cheers,
Tom
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Big
climber
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Crimp: simple whining on my part, not the flu or anything serious. Hope your feeling well enough to say yes to a T-wall visit this weekend? Mrs. Big, Charlie, The Endocrinologist, and I will be there Sunday. Think some of the folks are there Saturday as well.
TK: Found your link to the new MT guide on-line. Looks nice. Could probably probably fill in some blanks there. Rysinzube left has definitely been lead. Same for some other top-rope lines at one of those little areas along Highway 2. Taking credit for "one" of the first accents of a route has a pretty solid history around those parts. Fairly easy given the long history of hushed talk about various areas.
Are you actively working on a bouldering guide?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Big - glad you saw the new Butte guide, I think Mojede is keeping up on new and evolving info for the rope routes for further editions. I'm sure he'd be interested in filling in those 'gaps'.
Yeah, I am working on a bouldering guide, with the help of Mojede. It'd be cool if you did come out here, we could get some of the history better figured out.
Cheers,
Tom
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