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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Nice drawings of an almost lost art.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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At the risk of being told I am off topic and should be neutered...
This is an interesting sliding nut combo I had not seen before. British it seems.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Curious are Leeper pins still in use? I always found them extremely useful for stacking.
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Honu
Big Wall climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2018 - 07:58pm PT
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I really appreciate all the usefully responses guys! I would have never have thought to cam copperheads with pins or "nest" angles by crossing them. This has given me all sorts of ideas to keep in my bag as I solo afroman this week! does anyone ever carry knife blades anymore just to stack with beaks? The rack for afroman doesn't call for KBs because beaks have rendered them relatively useless besides a few oddball placement like in roofs, and horizontals. But even in those cases I suppose you'd just tie the beak blade off. Is it worth taking a couple KBs or bugs just like you'd take a z, just for the explicit use of stacking?
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The Larry
climber
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the trick is to mash it mercilessly into the hole ... it's pretty amazing how well you can get them to grip in a shallow depression where nothing else will stick
Not when the route goes hammerless.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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desert sandstone seems so untrustworthy.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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What a bunch of old farts you are! I haven't stacked a pin in YEARS, yet somehow I manage to climb all of these aid routes lately!
Throw away your zed-tons, get yourself some hybrid Aliens and Totems and did I mention PECKERS???!!!
Join the New Millennium you pathetic old turds, quit whining on internet forums, screw your courage to the sticking point, and GO F*#KING CLIMB SOMETHING for once. Instead of talking about it here.
[/rant]
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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^^^ You old fart yourself, go climb some real rock, something that takes some real skill, like desert sandstone. Or, you can just keep climbing by the numbers on that Yosemite rinse-and-repeat. LOL
Bwahahaha
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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LOL! What kind of idiot would ever believe that desert sandstone is "rock"?!
Now, see if you can fit your helmet over top of your pompadour, and come to El Cap in the spring and climb something with me! I need your help, I'm just a punter.
Please come climb with me, as you will make me look fast. What did it take? THREE SEASONS to climb your FA in Fisher Towers?
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!! Love you, my friend.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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^^^ I think that we're every bit as slow as you, my friend.
And, yeah, the Fishers are NOT rock. Hehe
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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Feb 10, 2018 - 07:02am PT
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Some excellent and important comments here.. Stacking is an art form that was required to get up any A5 a few decades ago. Now not so much, but sometimes it can still be the best option. One key to the stack is to recess the point of leverage as deep as possible. Another key is being creative with your technology. My personal favorite combo are heads and pins though I have used an array of combinations down through the years. Yes The continuing evolution of technology has eliminated much of the need for it but if you aspire to the really spicy routes on El Cap or in Zion, ect. A good strong stack can be the key to survival...
A couple of other important aspects before jumping on a spicy nail up that Bridwell taught me. 1) Assume the mind set ‘ I don’t take falls’. ‘I don’t have time for them’. Make the placement correctly. Do it right the first time. 2) ‘Don’t clip the junk’ If it’s a small head or body weight placement don’t bother clipping it. Don’t stroke yourself and think somewhere in this string of Junk something is going to stop me. Don’t waste the energy and time. You just going to have to redo all that work if you fall. 3) overhanging routes are best to learn on. Especially when you first start.
So Learn the art form. Stacking can open up the Road Less Traveled.
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reallyy big star
Social climber
some, place
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Feb 10, 2018 - 09:25am PT
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i always bounce-test the day.
not to see if it's gonna blow,
but instead to see how it'll go.
this is how i do it:
i open the door to my truck,
and i toss my old cell phone
into the bonnet, trying to land
it on the passenger chair.
if it stays on the cushion, then the day'll go well.
if the cell phone careens off vector, and ends up
in one of the cracks, then i know the day'll be a struggle.
i do ariel tree work for a trade,
and i alter my approach depending on
how my bounce-test goes.
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