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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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Is Chingando a little soft in the grade now because the caked blood flakes make extra crimper edges?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
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everything become from impossible to soft after doing many times.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
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I tried Ahab and Generator Crack this weekend with poor results. On Ahab I wriggled up to the OW part after the squeeze but but was out of gas to finish the climb. Generator == total fail. Someone told me Bong's Away is good precursor to Generator?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 20, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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I'm bumping this to see if anyone comments of Sheets' pondering comment re: Generator Crack vs. Bongs Away.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 20, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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Who has the beta for Doggie Do?
The bottom is a hand/fist stack left side in with a heal toe... But after the alcove, I'm at a loss, can't get anything out of me feet. I ended up lieing it back using the good lieback inside the crack, but it is insanely strenuous.
I encourage everyone to go toprope that f*#ker, it is a walk instead of a drive from camp four.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:27am PT
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damn, that beta page makes me feel like an ass! I thought Doggie Do was pretty hard... didn't feel that much easier than the moves on generator crack to me, not that I've even TRed that one clean yet. Oh well, much to learn!!!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 22, 2010 - 11:41am PT
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Watched Ed's video on Bongs Away Center, and was impressed by the nice clean character of the rock--not to mention the fabulous position at the end of the climb!
Bump for a cool thread!
Also watched the Orange Juice Avenue video; looks like a real nice crack.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 22, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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Hi Ed,
I was told by someone who climbed it last year that the actual OW on BAW center was pretty short and that you can work the features on the face before and after. That sound right?
Z
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
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I found the OW on BAWC (should be our climb!) to be quite good, Gary lead it and didn't have much of an issue... I didn't think of anything other than OW for the section of OW... don't recall how long it was. The entire pitch is not OW...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Apr 22, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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an Ed to Ed post
isn't there some sort of personality imbalance to be seeking out offwidths let alone making a tick list?
with that perspective, two short sections of offwidth in that grade range on otherwise nice routes:
The start of The Spectrum, Dome Rock, put up by Leversee
and
5.9 but dead vert,
start of second pitch of Spooky (not spook book) at the needles
as in the pic above.
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 22, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
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Ed Bannister,
Look in the mirror to see your personality imbalance.
You make OW seem ickier than spiders, slugs, broccoli and dirt
combined...
There's more to Life than sunny granite slabs...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Apr 22, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
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oh my,
'just a little fun,
and i know i am not well. but i do prefer the cookie to Human Sacrifice off Geology tour road.
and i would much prefer Broccoli
edit dos:
or, if you will, look at what the Largo rightly asked:
What gives with this grovel-lust?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 22, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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Hey Franky,
While climbing with Ed, Gary and scuffy I've been spanked by Doggie Do, Secret Storm and Left Side of The Cookie, all 10a OW. The thing is... then later I've been six pitches up something OW and everything I've learned "failing" on those climbs allows me to cruise it. The first time you throw in a hand stack way the hell off the ground and it gets you through the blank section, well, it is an awesome experience. You'll do it too and when you do report back.
Zander
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 22, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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Yes, Ed,
but consider Largo's background when he posed that question:
he had climbed Waterchute how many hundreds of times?
No painful hand jams on a real offwidth, lol
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 22, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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I'm surprised that Chris hasn't included any climbs form the This and That Cliff in the ST Yosemite Free climbs guidebook. Just looking at Ed's pix--This and That looks classic, as does Whim!
Added in edit; Bongs Away Center is also missing!
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Apr 22, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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Well, the Supertopo page for Reed's Direct carefully explains how to avoid
the icky 5.9 rattly fist at the top of Pitch 2 (some people think it's
off width) and goes on to say the preferred finish is to tunnel
through to the Left and climb the last pitch of the Regular, avoiding the
crux pitch of the Direct.
Any surprise that Bongs Away Center is missing?
EDIT: I, myself, don't think the fist section is icky. That was an attempt
to use a literary device.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 22, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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I have fairly small hands, so an "icky rattley fist" IS an OW for me!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 23, 2010 - 11:00am PT
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Comment on "grovelling!"
As a younger climber, I really loved elegant faces with tiny holds and steep! Think of "Anthill Direct" in Eldorado, or maybe "Yellow Spur." These all required several factors that no longer, in my case, obtain: finger strength, flexibility and being able to make long reaches/high steps, and a slim lowfat build.
Now that I'm older (and heavier) many of these conditions no longer exist; sigh!
Now I'm gonna' start "grovelling."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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for those of us who climb in Yosemite Valley, some familiarity with Offwidth Technique is necessary as routes (particularly ones with older FAs) will often have OW sections.
The original intent was to enlarge the repertoire of climbs we did by overcoming personal limitations caused by lack of familiarity with OW (and chimney) technique.
Perhaps if I were a better climber, I'd have just avoided those climbs with OW and done the harder climbs without... but I have my limitations.
The fact that 90% of climbers (that's just a made up statistic) avoid OW has two advantages: 1) we never wait behind other parties to do those climbs and 2) since few have done the climbs we get to talk them up to the general climbing public who, while curious, will never venture onto them, preferring the guaranteed thrills of a "classic" to groveling in some nightmare. In other words, we get bragging rights.
However, when encountering OW these days, it sure is nice to know how to get through it with the same elegance and efficiency attributed to other rock climbing techniques.
And that was the original point of the list...
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