Index of Yosemite Valley Climbs

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 15, 2010 - 06:52am PT

My version of Ed's list now includes a spreadsheet of first ascents by person and date. (yosfap.xls)
Check it out and tell me what climbs are missing, what mistakes are in there, etc.
[I know the pitch counts are off for many of the older routes]
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/update.htm

The main list is up to 2711 routes, which includes some duplicate pitches.

climber

Mar 15, 2010 - 12:12pm PT

Ed, Clint, Great stuff. Thanks a million.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Mar 15, 2010 - 12:34pm PT

You know Clint, if there was a separate column with the date of the first free ascent then you could do a sort by difficult, secondary sort by date and quickly find the date of the first 10a and the first 12b etc....

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 16, 2010 - 02:47am PT

Mike,

It would be more like a "Free Date" column, since many routes were freed on the FA and don't have a separate FFA.
You can get the info on first 5.10a, 5.12b, etc. with a little more effort by sorting yos.xls on year (FA), then by nrating, then check the first ascent column to check the FFA date.

For example, if you wanted to find the earliest 5.8, the earliest one without an FFA is:
Sentinel Rock - Northeast Bowl 5.8 A1, John Salathe, Anton Nelson, 6/1948
5.8s with earlier FAs all had FFAs after 1948.
However, this is not decisive, because there might exist some climbs done before 1948.06 which were 5.8 A_ but were freed at a higher grade.
We wouldn't know for sure unless we checked the original ratings before climbs were freed.
I believe Ed's version includes the original ratings, or at least some guidebook ratings for many climbs before they were freed.
Also the rating for Sentinel NE Bowl might reflect how people climbed it in 1971, but the 5.8 parts might have been aided in 1948.
So it's probably not the best example.

For a purely free 5.8:
Overhang Route 5.8, FFA: Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 1956
by comparison with the earliest 5.8s without a separate FFA (all done in 1958):
Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **, Chuck Pratt, Krehe Ritter, 1958
Watkins Pinnacles - from Tenaya Canyon 5.8, Gary Hemming, Dick Long, Jim Wilson, Larry Lackey, 5/1958
The Cookie - Original 5.8, Chuck Pratt, Dick Sykes, 8/1958
Arrowhead Spire - Northeast Side 5.8, John Fiske, Dick Scheible, 8/1958
and also (my rating):
Arrowhead Arete 5.9 **, Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 10/1956

First 5.9 is easy (and predates first 5.8):
Higher Cathedral Spire - Regular Route 5.9 **, FFA: Chuck Wilts, Spencer Austin, 1944
(I believe this was the first recorded FFA in the Valley)

5.10a-d
Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney 5.10a *, FFA: Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, 1960
Reed's Leads 5.10b (originally rated 5.9), Wally Reed, Mike Borghoff, 1963
Split Pinnacle Lieback 5.10c, FA(rap): Dave Rearick, Mort Hempel, 6/1961
Twilight Zone 5.10d **, Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 9/1965

5.11a-d (but remember, Slack Center and Serenity Crack were freed in 1967, and rated 5.11 in the 1971 Roper guidebook)
Butterfingers 5.11a **, Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones, 8/1971
Cream 5.11a **, Mark Klemens, et al, 8/1971
The Hourglass - Left Side 5.11a R *, FFA: Peter Haan, Rick Linkert, Mike Farrell, 9/1971
Swan Slab Aid Route 5.11b *, FFA: Loyd Price, et al, 1967
General Hospital 5.11c R, Rik Rieder, Phil Gleason, Chris Wegener, 1972
Abstract Corner 5.11d **, Jim Bridwell, et al, 1971

5.12a-d
Hotline 5.12a ***, FFA: Ron Kauk, John Bachar, 1975
Tongue and Groove 5.12a, Andreas Maurer, 1975
Fish Crack 5.12b **, FP(cleaned): Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, by 1975; FA: Henry Barber, et al, 1975
Hang Dog Flyer 5.12c **, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 1976
Owl Roof 5.12c, FA(using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973; FFA(chockstone removed): Dale Bard, [not Jardine], by 1977
Tunnel Vision 5.12d *, John Bachar, et al, 1982

5.13a-d
The Phoenix 5.13a ***, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 5/1977
Cosmic Debris 5.13b ***, Bill Price, et al, 5/1980
Excellent Adventure 5.13c, FFA: Peter Croft, 1987
Book of Hate 5.13d, Randy Leavitt, 1999

5.14a-b
Nose Free 5.14a, FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993
Magic Line 5.14b, FFA: Ron Kauk, 1997
Meltdown 5.14, Beth Rodden, 2/08

The above might make a cool tick list!

You can also sort by type, to find the first 5.10a slab, first 5.10a thin crack, lieback, etc.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 03:03pm PT

bump for sean

tinker b

climber

the commonwealth

Jun 1, 2013 - 09:28pm PT

bad ass.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 07:03am PT

bump

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Dec 18, 2014 - 07:18am PT

So, um...

What's the deal with the new guide?

Will it be out in time for the 2015 season?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 07:40am PT

can I talk about the new guide on this site?

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Dec 18, 2014 - 09:21am PT

Can I talk about the new guide on this site?

I think so - I don't see the project you guys are working on as competing with any of ST's guides.

ST has the "select" guides covered. What so many of us Yosemite zealots are eager for is what you fellas are working on. No similarity between the two that I see.

Willoughby

Social climber

Truckee, CA

Dec 18, 2014 - 09:58am PT

can I talk about the new guide on this site?

Please do!!

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Dec 18, 2014 - 01:54pm PT

Wouldn't be the first non-ST guide discussed here, and I bet it wouldn't be the last.

So should I invest an exorbitant amount of $$ in a haggard used Reid guide, or is it worth holding out just a bit longer?

(Spoiler alert: I'd rather give you my money, especially for a product that's not 20 years out of date.)

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Dec 18, 2014 - 03:50pm PT

The route count is over 3400 at present.

ETA for new guide - I am saying the same thing I always say: it's at least 2 years away.
Much work remains to be done.
Just last Sunday I spotted another route that I didn't know about.
If I could get fired from my job maybe I could get more done? :-)

You can get a used copy of the 1994 Don Reid Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs book for $37-44 at amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0934641595/ref=tmm_pap_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&sr=1-1&qid=1418946449
I recommend it if you want a guidebook with a large selection of climbs.
"20 years out of date" is not a big deal in Yosemite - the climbs / topo for Cookie and Arch are not going to change much if at all. Astroman climb / topo is the same as in the 1982 guide.
There are lots of new routes, but most of the best routes are already in the 1994 guide.
If you are like Kelly and have done a large number of routes in the old guide, the new one will provide fresh adventures, though!
A temporary solution might be to contact us for a testdrive topo or two if you have done all the good stuff in the old guide.
Then you can write a TR like this one:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Goliath-The-intimidator-on-Yosemites-Lost-Brother/t12492n.html