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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 11:46am PT
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this become very interesting, I wish him to send. Woot! The weather is splitter again
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
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For someone familiar with smashing knots into a crack for pro, the placement of copperheads shouldn't be much of a stretch. It ain't rocket science, Valley Syndrome/exceptionalism notwithstanding.
Sorry if that was too many big words in a row.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 19, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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Shouldn't be a big deal unless Grossman decides he hasn't "earned" the right to come in and tear it up, then he might need a hazmat suit.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Oct 19, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
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So, does anyone know if he has really led these first handful of pitches placing his own gear. Would really cheer for someone climbing this route in a style more of us can identify with free of the caveats.
Also anyone see Shipoopi hanging out around his ropes at the base?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 04:29pm PT
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So, does anyone know if he has really led these first handful of pitches placing his own gear.
Well, here's what Ondra says about to top of pitch 10, from BD's FB page, in reverse chronological order:
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment
Update: Ondra Climbs to the Top of Pitch 10 on the Dawn Wall
“We started pretty late yesterday and the fact that we are very inexperienced was obvious right from the beginning—I’ve done a lot of jugging up in my life, but only sport climbing and always using one GriGri and one ascender. Bad technique resulted in being super slow and tired after having jugged up the first 7 pitches. It was 3:30 p.m. by that time, so I managed to get to the top of pitch 10 until it got dark.
“It was quite intense, a lot of bold climbing again, especially on pitch 10, which is another horrendous layback with poor protection. A combination of aid climbing, French-freeing and fear got me to the top without ripping out any of my pieces of pro. I didn’t feel like going for more adventure in the dark, so we just fixed our ropes and I tried pitch 7, 8 and 10 (5.14a, .13d and .14a) on toprope with headlamp. These pitches are not only bold, but freaking hard too! Definitely no easy grades for these ones—Tommy and Kevin are tough guys! I tried the moves all over again to get some confidence and we got back to the camp by 12:30 at night. Big day for sure.
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 19, 2016.
===
Update: Ondra Jumps on the Dawn Wall
“First day on the big wall in Yosemite, and straight onto the Dawn Wall! Foolishness, lack of respect or boldness? Well, not necessarily any of it. The Dawn Wall just dries up quickly after the huge rain on Sunday. And it went all right. Definitely scary and adventurous. Tiny footholds and insecure climbing, smearing my feet onto glassy footholds of Yosemite granite and all that with poor protection by copperheads, peckers, tiny cams and occasional bolts.
“I ripped some copperheads, took some falls but made it to the top of pitch 7 and fixed our ropes. Leading the pitches with all the fear definitely felt super hard, but once I had the rope from above, the moves felt OK. But grades on the Dawn Wall are definitely not overrated. Great success for today and 5 pitches to go tomorrow to have our ropes fixed under the crux pitches.”
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 17, 2016.
and from http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-makes-quick-progress-on-the-dawn-wall
On Monday, (Ondra's) first day on the wall, he reached the top of Pitch 7, although not without falling. Photographer and climber Dustin Moore reported to Rock and Ice that Ondra onsighted the first pitch (5.12b) and fell once and hung once on the second pitch (5.13a).
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 19, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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Great post. I want him to do well, but I was sure that El Cap had some surprises in store for him as well. At least I was hoping it did.
Can't have the guy thinking of the big stone like an upside down clip pitch, you know?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 19, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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This clueless fanboy dogpile is funny - but then so are the daily instasprays that seem to be bringing it.
tired after having jugged up the first 7 pitches.
Ground up, brah. I see just a few more days of that sh#t until he's rapping in, entire route fixed.
Oh yeah, Adam is SO good, he'll do what took Tommy and Kevin several years, if not a lifetime - in just a few weeks. It could happen, love to see it... Enjoying my popcorn...
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:28pm PT
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I'm no expert like you guys sitting at home but had Ondra climbing next to and quickly well above us here on El Cap.
Guy was climbing way into the night last night, rapped off late enough to wake me up.
They've fixed up high, maybe 12-15 pitches if not more. Heinz Zak was here taking pics too. Even if the Junk Show!
But of course you bozos know better.
Zzzzzzzzz
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:34pm PT
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be kind anita.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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Thanks, Anita !
Any pics you have will be appreciated. Send us a view from El Cap this evening.
They've fixed up high, maybe 12-15 pitches if not more. Heinz Zak was here taking pics too. Even if the Junk Show!
Good info on the progression. You and Pete will be stars, and the Junk Show :)
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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Braj's!! I was there !!!
Anyone know if he's using friction labs chalk?!
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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He wasn't here today. I'll try and get some pics if he's back tomorrow. They're well above Lay Lady Ledge. Just him and a buddy belaying. They showed up the day we blasted, Monday I think.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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Just him and a buddy belaying.
Do you know who the belayer is?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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This lad can climb! Fast and smooth.
His photographer - Heinz Zak who shot Alex and Thomas Huber - told me Adam is the strongest he's ever seen. He sends 12s and 13s with fixed heads for pro!
His buddy is belaying and jugging.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 19, 2016 - 11:35pm PT
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It takes the fun out of arm chair mountaineering when people who are actually on mountains call you out on it! Damned mobile devices! Rebuffat and Tilman never used them.
How is the weather in the Valley?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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Hey, at least he's smart enough to take a rest day after a bunch of hard climbing and laborious gumby-jugging. Like for all of us, the logistics and daily grind of long routes take their toll on even the best. I don't really know the guy's background, but it doesn't seem to be full of long, hard El Cap-style climbs. Maybe he'll really get into it like a lot of strong climbers have and really pursue the giant-hard-free-climb thing. It seems to provide a level of challenge that folks like that can sink their teeth into. From this armchair, it's exciting to contemplate the possibilities.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 21, 2016 - 11:16am PT
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That article makes it sound like he's getting tested pretty hard, calling a number of the pitches bold and frigging hard. I hope he gets hooked on getting this done for the second ascent!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 21, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Updates and photos from Pavel Blažek, who appears to be climbing with and belaying (?) Ondra:
http://www.pictaram.com/user/pavelblazek/211616602
The last comment below is amusing. re. their big wall technique!
pavelblazek - Kevin Jorgeson (@kjorgeson) stopped by to give Adam some beta on the climb. The line on the ground is the pitches 11 - 15. That's where we managet to get last night. Adam even tried to climb the pitch 16 in the dark, but it was getting really late and he decided to rather do it during day.
pavelblazek - In my point of view, it's easier for Adam to climb the traverz (pitch 14 & 15), than for me to jug it up (going sideways) .
pavelblazek - We both find it quite funny - Adam never really trad climb, I've never been on multipitch climb, neither of us ever had to jug up or set the fix ropes on big wall ... The learning curve is bit steep :) :) :) .
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