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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2016 - 08:01am PT
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BLURBLOCKR: Many years ago I did climb a couple times at, what was then know then as, the Rocklin Quarry. Some fun stuff there. Do you climb there?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The following people are extremely intelligent: Dingus Milktoast, Killer K, Jebus and Lynne.
Careful there, Johnny. I can't speak to the tail end of that elite posse but I can assure you
that DMT is very particular about maintaining full control of his brand imaging and he might
not take kindly to it being tarnished by obsequiousness. ;-)
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jstan
climber
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Couple comments:
I began training before starting to climb. Some friends in the Syracuse Outing Club were lost for many days mid-winter on the White Mountain range trail. I experimented to see if I could participate in a rescue attempt, The answer was "no way". So I took up running in the snow. Nearly a century later my heart surgeon told me my blood vessels were abnormally small. Training regimes clearly can depend upon personal limitations. I ran every day during my climbing years. If I had known I was so defective I might not have climbed at all.
In DC I worked in a building designed to store naval shells. I hung a large diameter manila rope from a beam more than 15 feet above the floor. After climbing to the beam I would hang there until I thought I had barely enough strength to get back down to the floor. The floor was designed to support dead loads of 100,000 PSI. You don't want to fall very often or very far onto such a surface.
As for why I waste my time posting, people here have a wide variety of experience and knowledge. You can learn. I limit myself to reading those who do not imagine they are writing a book. Short posts get to the point right away. My apologies for this post.
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Is it that you don't know why you post here, or you don't know why other people post here? Hell, I don't know why I do most of the stuff that I do either, and most of the stuff that I convince myself I do know, I'm wrong about.
If what you really want though is for other people to post the way you want them to post, you'll probably need to invest a lot more time and effort, and develop expertise in non-climbing related stuff, like the psychology of why other people do what they do, and the politics of getting them to do what you want them to do.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2016 - 08:38am PT
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I wanted this to be a poll. No theories. Not what other people do, but what you do. Another aspect of this poll is not what you think your climbing level would be if you did more gym strength training or how you would improve if you did 1000 pullups a day. In other words, I just want the facts about what you do. The requirements to participate in this poll are, #1 You have to be a higher level climber (for some, like myself, that don't have much natural ability, this might be 11c, for others, with a high level of natural ability, this would probably be 12c. #2 Your life circumstance allows you to get out climbing at least 3 times a week in the gym or outdoors. Following is a way I might use these results: If 20 people (that meet the 2 requirements) respond to this poll and 15 of them say I do nothing in the gym (except for cardio, Yoga, stretching etc but no strength training) I might loosely conclude that I might not have to be as concerned about strength training. I might conclude that if I get out at least 3 times a week, additional strength training might be overtraining or I am not getting enough rest. Bottom line, I am trying to justify not having to workout at the strength gym and just climb cause I hate the strength training gym but love plastic and outdoors and would love to be a higher level climber. So far the results have tended to support my desire to be able to stay away from the strength training gym.
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jstan
climber
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John9Q:
I would call your attention to an article posted by Blake Wood an ultra marathoner. His brother Jay posts here occasionally. Blake recounts a fast pack transit of the JMT. When he got too tired to keep on running he lay down on a rock and tried to sleep. When he could not sleep he started running again. What has this got to do with climbing or training? In running, climbing, and other pursuits we love what we really are doing is stripping away all of the noise keeping us from seeing what life really is. You can't get simpler than reducing life to a single choice. Running or sleeping.
One can argue that being human is all about doing the very best we can with what we have, in an activity we love. Done this way it is simple. One can also argue that climbers who focus on the ratings given climbs are really just pulling noise back into a pursuit we follow because it offers a chance to leave the noise behind us. Unroped climbing is the most extreme form and so it is we find that kind of climbing fascinating.
http://microserf.lanl.gov/bpw/jmtarticle.pdf
If you will, read the article and think about it.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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John,
Hang in there. A lot of the great climbing history and climber related info has already taken place over the years here so the micro is now a constant. But great things still happen and your thread is one of them. Kind of a reality check as it were. So to your question. I think as we get older the heart becomes more and more important to a long climbing or otherwise life. Cardio is usually not the focus when climbing. John Gill had been mentioned. I hope I get my history correct and hopefully he'll chime in. He is a model of muscle but I beleive he has relayed how he's had heart problems because he was more focused on musculature then cardio. I like what Ekat said. I am fortunate to live on the East Side where there are great choices for training. I get to climb a lot and think it the best training for climbing. After that, I bicycle three times a week a elevation for cardio. Then stretch every morning. I'll email you some climbs we put up in the Rainbow area in the 90's that might interest you if your interested.....
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Fair enough. How do we factually measure how much natural ability we have, so we can factually determine whether we need to be an 11c or 12d climber in order to participate? People's participation in the other threads works the same way.
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jstan
climber
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I think as we get older the heart becomes more and more important to a long climbing or otherwise life. Cardio is usually not the focus when climbing. John Gill had been mentioned. I hope I get my history correct and hopefully he'll chime in. He is a model of muscle but I beleive he has relayed how he's had heart problems because he was more focused on musculature then cardio.
A pre-mortem examination might allow estimation of some factors. But that is a little extreme. As I posted I started cardio training before I got into climbing and maintained it throughout. I think my heart problems, recognized around age 65, resulted from a confluence of long term overindulgence in sugar, simple old age, and genetics. Hearts reportedly are the leading killer today so no single cause is probably at fault. As our consumption of unnatural carbs increases the situation should worsen.
In one of the above posts a case of a sugar junkie's face turning red might be an indicator of the body's inflammation in response to glycemic overload. Not my field admittedly.
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