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WBraun
climber
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Take the bolts out and fill the holes Erik.
Just do it and do the right thing here.
And to those YMS so called guides who condone this bullsh!t, you are insane .....
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Does Erik Sloan have a legal reason to be in the Valley for more than 14 days at a time? If not, then I say report him to the NPS and have him kicked out for overstaying the 14 day limit.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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I'm just waiting till Erik does a FA. Then, I will
permanently add multiple 40 ft extension
ladders to it, for convenience, of course.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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As the World Turns.....
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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I'm fascinated to find out the Scrubbles has minions.
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back.
This is why your an as#@&%e Erik. Who the F*#k gave you the final word, authority to do whatever the f*#k you want. Your a little baby. " If you do that I'll just put it back "
How are you, Erik Sloan being a steward of the rock/climbing community with that attitude?
Did you not get enough attention as a child growing up?
Talking to a few guides gave you permission?
Did you talk to the FA of the route?
One day your kid is gonna read all this and realize his dad was a ass clown to the climbing community.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Drive up the paved road. Buy some food at the store. Load up on water. Get a coffee, drive some more, dodge the tourists. gear up with high tech climbing equipment, Listen to a car alarm, complain that a bolt has ruined your 'wilderness' experience....
What are you, new?
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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If this is a community problem then when is the community going to HTFU and actually DO something about it? Woot indeed, pussy boy.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I have no idea who Sloan is, but I imagine him with his lips wrapped around a giant co-ck !!!!!!!!!!!!
This post has so many levels.
Do you imagine other men doing this?
Who is receiving?
Is it you?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Why does this seem like a giant and hugely successful troll?
Along the lines of 'do you believe everything you hear, with no evidence?'
Dingus, read the thread--folks have verified the bolts.
Heck, even Walling is posting to this nonsense!
But reading Sloan's post would make one think it's just a bad joke.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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And to those YMS so called guides who condone this bullsh!t, you are insane .....
I picture Sloan pitching his idea to Mark G and Mark just giving him a blank stare with mouth agape and that passing as "approval."
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dude, bolting this is in my imagination, not the BOR...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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...do you believe everything you hear...
we've been working on the guidebook for years now, and we have a very good idea of what the state of the free climbs in Yosemite Valley is over that time.
In particular, we have been careful to document the bolts on free climbs to ensure accuracy in the topos... abelgabel has spent a huge number of hours doing this, as has Clint, and I've been around on many old classics discovering modern modifications...
While I don't think it is a requirement, in at least one other case a Valley local sent email to a list of people including the guidebook team seeking advice about adding bolts to their own older climbs... so in that case we were involved in "consensus building," having surveyed the recent state of free climbing in the Valley. We had concluded that this particular person was in a good position to judge the additions themselves, having climbed there and put up FAs in the Valley for decades.
But we expressed our particular opinions regarding the proposed modifications.
We are still seeking information regarding routes where bolts evidence the passage but are otherwise undocumented. We see routes being bolted that had previously been lead with natural protection, and claims of FAs on lines that had already been done.
Hopefully we will have the comprehensive guide out that will indicate where the existing routes are (to the best of our knowledge, which is pretty good) and some indication of the history of the route FAs, complicated by the overlapping claims.
abelgabel has an encyclopedic knowledge of free routes in the Valley, it has been a passion of his for many years.
I'll be there on Sunday, and if I have time, I'll swing by and shoot some pictures... I don't have any doubts about the OP report. And nanook's already claimed to have been the bolter.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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and you're definitely ready to climb Half Dome or Washington Column
If you're interested in climbing El Cap, check out these practice aid pitches!
There is SO MUCH MORE to doing aid on a wall a thousand feet of the deck that clipping' some C1/2 100 feet from the shuttle bus.
This is why SAR exists.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Really doesn't matter much if it's a troll as it has at least demonstrated that a lot of people actually DO care about the damage this numb nut is wreaking on established climbs. I'm a little surprised that putting an idiotic anchor on this single free pitch raised more pitchforks than the placement of his 5'7" bolt ladders, but I guess whatever gets people involved.
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Scrubbles sure writes some good comedy. I like the narrative development in his last two posts. Hoping for further installments.
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WBraun
climber
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I went over there to have a quick look and sure enough the new added bolts are there.
As you can see I didn't say the "new" anchors are there but only new added bolts where there never were any.
Erik, ... anchors are replaced at the END of the pitch not in the middle of a pitch.
Please fix this .....
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PolishClimber
Trad climber
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It sounds to me like this guy is just going around adding his "practice spots" so he can fill his own "guidebook" and website with them... His post was half of an advertisement for his stuff. It is cynical and lame to ruin the experience of others for your own self-promotion and monetary gain.
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