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Euroford

Trad climber

chicago

Oct 13, 2006 - 08:35pm PT

that sounds like a killer book concept, go get back to work dammit! and put me down for two...

also, thats got to be one of the best forums nicknames around, it just works.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Oct 13, 2006 - 08:49pm PT

Hello Jeff, and thanks for the compliment. (Cheque's in the mail...) We may have met, very briefly, at some time or other, but not so it left any impression. So you can maybe put me on the list of new "virtual" friends.

Looking forward to your posts and writing. I do a bit of both, and always like a good read.

Though I have been climbing since the early 1970s, mostly in B.C., and we've undoubtedly got some commonalities somewhere along the line. I post under a boy scout nickname (non-charitable), but add my given name for anything of substance. A give away - I'm pretty involved in the climbing community here.

Anders
(Vancouver)

GhoulweJ

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

Oct 13, 2006 - 09:07pm PT

Book sounds like a "Must Have".
First release Party on Super Taco in the future months?
I will stop there. Jeff, stop reading, keep writing... lol.

Jello

Social climber

No Ut

Oct 13, 2006 - 09:12pm PT

I remember that day, Pman. It was my last day on ice. My legs hurt too much to stand on frontpoints, anymore. But it was a good last day, pimping the two Wills on to complete their cool project.

I know who you are, Anders, at least by name if not by sight. I look forward to BS-ing with you here on the Taco.

Thanks, Ford, I'll get back to work...

Jello

Social climber

No Ut

Oct 14, 2006 - 12:12am PT

Bart Fay does sound familiar Tarboots, Hey ho, Bart - is that you of old Sport clamberin' and promotin' times together?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Oct 14, 2006 - 12:22am PT

Anders is a Jewel here on the Topo!

Hey Jeff,
'Member that piece you penned a while back about testing some soloist ideas, maybe on the flanks of Ama Dablam? Somethin' like Ice Climberin' up with an 8 mil in yer pack, then just 'rappin down after the tuff bit?

I love that shite man.
Keep on penning it up.
Yah, you can burn a lot of time here on the taco, but personally, I have to say it is time very well spent, because we all participate in a very real way together.

Via Con Dios Bro...

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Oct 14, 2006 - 12:29am PT

...I do not think it is the same Bart Fay Jeff.

Either way, and no disrespect Bart Fay,

Jeff, pertaining to Bart Fay of Sport Climbing:
I rememeber a late night at sno- bird, all of us whacked out on long hours and nothin' else,
Bart just stamping away on ticket validations,
'Puttin' in his time with all of us,

Man, I think it was a Zen Moment for me, never gonnah forget all the stuff we all do to get by, especially when
There is Heart In It.

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Oct 14, 2006 - 12:30pm PT

Yeah, the Eigerwand.

I have always wanted to climb it, but...

A. I will probably never be a good enough Alpine climber to do it

B. I am a coward and that is one face that cowards should stay away from

and...

C. It kind of is a huge choss pile, isn't it Jeff?

But jaysus, you have to admire Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek

(or anybody who climbs it)

Jello

Social climber

No Ut

Oct 14, 2006 - 12:59pm PT

I think you've kind of mixed a couple of climbs together in your mind, Tarbuster, the South Face of Ama Dablam, which I completed, and the South face of Trapecio, where I rapped off after the hard part but below the summit. By the way, the Trapecio route was finished last summer by a trio of Czech? climbers, 20 years after my climb. Anyway, thanks for your great enthusiasm. I can tell it's gonna help keep me focused on the Finnish. Like those lads on the Nose in another thread, it's hard to start, when you're already Finnish - which I am!

Patrick, I've never done the 1938 route on the Eiger, but my route, Metanoia, which I did in winter and which goes up the steepest part of the central face, has excellent if sometimes pretty crackless limestone and good ice. I experienced zero rockfall, but tons of spindrift, which just lent that Eiger flavor that is so repulsive/attractive. Of course that climb will be in the book, as it was my biggest/hardest.best solo. No repeats yet, although it's been tried a few times.

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Oct 14, 2006 - 02:26pm PT

Wow Jeff, after Mountain mag (great publication IMO) went out of business I sort of lost touch with what was going on in the climbing world, I didn't realize you did a new route on the Eiger Norwand, and solo too?

Jaysus, awesome to say the least.

EDIT

But doing any route on that face is awesome.

10b4me

Trad climber

California

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2006 - 01:25pm PT

10b, do I know thee?

Jeff, never tied into a cord with you;met you at a slideshow in SoCal about three years ago.

Jello

Social climber

No Ut

Oct 15, 2006 - 04:43pm PT

Just did a quick review of this thread and realized that I haven't responded to Malabarista. Thanks, MB, it's nice to hear that the effort put into Ice World had its' desired result with you. Writing is so unlike climbing. There's no physical effort to clean out self-doubts and second-guessing.

It's a great fall day here in northern utah. I've been out stumbling around on the trails behind my house, looking up at the cliffs with what I have to admit is some nostalgia and even a bit of melancholy. I really do miss climbing! But I'm not complaining - I got to play hard in the hills for fifty years. Now I'm getting the chance to sort through all those great experiences and come to a better understanding of who I am at the deeper levels, and what my tiny role in the big cosmos might be. If I was still climbing all the time, I'd never have gotten this opportunity for reflection/appreciation.

I'd like to post a photo to the Wind Rivers, 1969 thread, but I'm an absolute computer/web illiterate. I read through some of the suggestions on the subject, here on ST, but to me it's all Greek. If someone would be kind enough to contact me by e-mail and leave a phone number where I could contact them and they would kindly walk me through the process, I'd be happy to give them a copy of the new book when it's published. Just remember, if you volunteer for this, you'll need a lot of patience!

NOTE: Mighty Hiker sent me clear and concise instructions for posting photos. Worked easy first time. Thanks to Anders, I'm an instant expert - NOT!

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Oct 15, 2006 - 07:54pm PT

Its a pretty nice afternoon in southern Utah too, Jeff, though things are wet from yesterday's dump..
There's a link for info on posting photos in no_one's thread (and you sort of just got mentioned).

Jello

Social climber

No Ut

Oct 15, 2006 - 09:01pm PT

Thanks, Ron, Anders helped me out and I'm good to go with photos, now. I inserted a photo in the story at the top of this thread.

I mean the Wind River thread!