Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Sherri
climber
WA
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
|
Geronimo was my first RR multi. I thought it was stellar in every respect(moves, exposure, rock quality). That could have been because I had nothing to compare it to, but now that I've done a couple of others, I still hang on to that one as my favorite.
Maybe one does tend to view that "first time" through impressionable eyes.
|
|
wildone
climber
Where you want to be
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
|
I thought "One eyed Jack" was such an awesome feature. Those pockets next to the crack were so rad.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
|
Sweet I gight have to head out to willow springs some time here.
I guess that MT. Wilson is the road less traveled. Are people aware that you can do Inti Watana which is a 5.10 sport climb and join the upper pitches of Resolution Arete which goes no harder than maybe one pitch of 5.8/9 crack to the top of MT Wilson SO hear me now 16-20 pitch route with crux 5.10 bolted on 2nd pitch and more people don't go up here??? Wow This is like Ray Jardines dream of the Nose on Red Rocks biggest piece of Rock and people don't sign up?? Well if your looking for a way to get up the biggest baddest rock in the park for climbiing that is easier than the Prince of Darkness there it is. You can even bring two ropes and rap off if you wanted from the top of Inti Watana p12. COme on folks lets see some headlamps up there next weekend!!!!!
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
|
Community Pillar does that require 2 ropes to rap or could I get away with 1 70?
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 02:02am PT
|
How about The Clod Tower IV 5.10 to the left of Crimson Crysalis?? Any beta or news?????????
|
|
philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 11:40am PT
|
The route to the right of Power Failure is called All You can EAT. It was named for the All you can eat sushi on Rainbow which is a regular stop on RR trips. This route may become popular after the upper pitches groom up a bit..
Gondwonna 5.9+? has seen only a couple of repeats though it has been retro bolted for climber pleasure and survivability. Doing the Boogie now would probably still be one of the the first five or six ascents of this lesser known and 'possible' future classic. Linking it with one of the Pink Tornado routes is the obvious directissima way to go just expect more meters of serious climbing than the Res.
Another route that may become popular as it gets more ascents is Amber 5.10 on Whiskey Peak
|
|
Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
|
I don’t know if anyone has mentioned The Warrior on Cactus flower tower but I think it deserves the title of “Classic”. Not your typical RR climb, not the third pitch anyway. The only bad part is the long approach and some loose rock here and there.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
Ok so previously I bad mouthed five seven routes in red rocks but I did Birdland to wrap up my trip and I thought that it was just awesome. Do the splitter black crack on the wall to the left when you descend and you will be smiling. How did these routes get soo popular?
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
That dang internet, of course!
Mark asked me to keep Birdland out of the Supertopo guide so I did - he was hoping to keep the crowds down. No luck, word spread, photos and descriptions appeared, and kaboom! - lines, lines, lines. You just can't hide awesome moderate routes unless you tell zero people...and Birdland is one of Red Rock's best.
|
|
tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
|
|
that one is pretty cool
Any opinions on Lone Star? It looks kinda serious but I get kinda psyched reading about it.
|
|
MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
bump
|
|
Sherri
climber
WA
|
|
"Peanut Butter and Jam," a single pitch 5.9 at Chocolate Rocks, is a contender. Despite a 20 minute approach, its outside-of-the-Loop-Road locale keeps it off the radar for most RR visitors. Classic Joe Herbst burlfest.
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2008 - 06:24am PT
|
From our trip this past weekend:
Adventure Punks, mixed feelings, looks like somebody reverted route to the original state: one bolt at the top of the first and second pitches and no bolts at the top of third (there are visible bolt holes)
First pitch start is 30-35' or so runout before you get a chance to place your first cam behind a crappy flake and may be it was 9+ at some point but rather polished by now. Not sure what FA team did but older topo points to an alternative start some 30 feet left in the dirty right facing corner. First two pitches are longer then 120’ each so don't count on a 70m rope. Third pitch is not a varnished 10a but rather smooth 10b/c corner (dep on your finger size)
Edge of the Sun, very nice ... just keep your cool. First pitch is a bit of a route finding, second half follows corner just some 6 feet left of the main aręte. Second pitch is something else: see of small fragile knobs, only 3 bolts for 140' but there is one micro cam spot 20' of the station and a chicken head you can sling 20' after the last bolt. Third pitch 10d is more like 10c but exposure at the start of it while moving around aręte and above the roof is incredible. Top out is beautiful. You can rap down with one 70m rope that is just barely long enough to get you down.
|
|
say-no-to-rap-bolting!
Trad climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2008 - 10:09am PT
|
Ying Yang is awesome...
Largo,
have the 2 bolts been replaced on the crux pitch of woodrow???
looks awesome!
nice essay in the new red rock guide about the first ascent by JL.
read it!
cheers,
ben
|
|
say-no-to-rap-bolting!
Trad climber
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2008 - 10:33am PT
|
and a few good one's:
cut loose(10d) is an awesome flake.
Running man (11d) is my absolute favorite pitch in RR.
Pablo diablo(12d),Sonic Youth(11d), Native Son(11c) and of course Monster Skank(13b) are fun sportclimbs.
and the best of all: Spring Break (11d) a super good face climb following a thin crack providing pro up a stellar buttress in Ice Box Canyon. Just too good to believe it.
Risky business(10cPG13) has some excellent climbing.
Cloud Tower is very classic but not busy at all. With only a few wider sections this is a very good multipitch crackclimb.
Rainbow Country looks brilliant but HARD, didn't climb it.
have fun!
ben
|
|
Moonbluff
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
|
May 19, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
|
Just to follow up on Community Pillar - you can get down with four single rope rappels. Beta on Mountain Project or Larry's guide book "Red Rock Odyssey".
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
May 16, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
|
Bump to end the Red Rocks season
|
|
Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
|
|
|
May 16, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
|
A little beta on Our Father.
My guidebook said 2 bolts on the 2nd pitch, I only found 1. So the bolts are new but there are less of them. It is about 20' to the first bolt(5.8+), there is a nut placement available but it is only a few feet above the belay ledge, after the bolt it is about 20' to the next gear placement. The crux is 8'-10' above the bolt. I found it to be reasonable.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!