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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 23, 2015 - 08:54pm PT
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Marty-Great that you got in touch with Long. Super guy, one of the most natural and talented climbers of his era.
I use to "hang out" in his garage after high school and help grind pins. He was busy with med school, papa to a million kids and multi tasking with dozens of projects.
Here is a shot of Long and Steck at the Nose Reunion. Long, Steck and Roper made the 3rd ascent of the Salathe Wall way back on the time machine.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2015 - 08:54pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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Guido, The thanks goes to you for hooking me up with the Long contact info! I sent him the links to the supertopo gear threads so hopefully he checks them out. It sounds like he never touches the computer but I have his email info if anybody needs it. On the spiritual side of things I felt like he is down on himself or something. Maybe some of his old friends should give him a hello.
I told him I am gathering many more LONGware questions for him, and will be in contact in a few months. In Marty style, I am going to put him to work! Dick Long is a inventor yes, but also a master craftsman!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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Jim Bridwell homemade hangers
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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adkeditor - Is this how big that bolt and washer is that is pounded into the crack?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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Buhlerhaken
This stainless steel glue-in bolt is made by a German guy named Buhler. The Buhler bolts are used mostly in the Frankenjura area close to Nuremburg Germany.
Great Trango Holdings
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2015 - 07:50am PT
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rolo
climber
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:53pm PT
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Not sure who manufactured these, possibly Otto Weisskopf, an austrian emigree to Argentina.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Jul 14, 2015 - 06:17am PT
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Oskar Bühler pioneered modern glue-in bolts starting in the early 60´s, he changed to stainless steel in 1965 and there are plenty around doing good service. Most were installed with quick setting cement which is why the one you show is so long though mostly they are resin bolts nowadays.
He was bricklayer and construction engineer which explains why he had the idea, he died in 2001.
In contrast to the various bits of nastily-bent steel we´ve been looking at here are the ones I manufacture. 8mm stainless steel tig welded, 10mm or 12mm/1/2" bolt hole and two sizes, protection hanger top and belay hanger below. Minimum 45kN breaking strain, no need for bail-biners and an end to damaged biners. At a price!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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rolo - I can’t remember off hand what that piton bolt with the split shaft is named. Possibly single word starting with the letter G….I think? Anyways the piton bolt shows up in the 1968 Encyclopedia of Rock Climbing listed as #13. Also I found the same piton bolt on a illustration which I think was from Summit Magazine. See very bottom of the illustration below the hand drill.
JimT - is your company named “Bolt-Products”? Years ago Scott Milton gave me a bolt hanger which looks similar to yours. On the internet I came across the many items that Bolt-Products creates.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Jul 14, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Yes, Jim T's company is "Bolt Products." Numerous cool innovations.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Found it! And its a single word starting with letter G.
The piton bolt is named Golo's Piton.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Jul 15, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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I am indeed Bolt Products.
The welded rod hanger you show is either home-made or from Salewa, they marketed a similar product decades ago but I´m fairly sure they had a round eye for the karabiner.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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JimT - Jim Waugh was just in town and we got onto the subject of bolting routes, and he mentioned the common glue-in bolt he uses in Thailand is the Bolt-Products twisty bolts, which are the Rod Twisted Leg bolts. I know the Ushba titanium Tortuga bolt is a popular bolt used in Thailand as well.
I guess the next question is, how do I get a sample of all the Bolt-Products products for the Karabin Museum? Do you have a USA distributor and also a museum discounted price listing? .....(cough). Your products are most beautiful and I totally love the Monster Hook glue-in. A work of art for sure!
I know there is a link to your website on this thread, but with your permission I would also like to post the 28 photos of your many products on this Bolt Hanger thread for history purposes.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
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Troll
Question: Did Parba make bolting kits in the late 1960s? I know that Troll purchased/merged with Parba in 1970, but did the Parba name continue after 1970? In the early 1970s Ellis Brigham catalogs it lists a Parba bolt kit which is the Troll bolt kit. Just wondering if bolt hangers stamped “Parba” were ever made.
I am not sure what year the Troll hanger was first marketed (late 1960s?), but so far the earliest I found is shown in the 1970 Troll catalog.
From 1970-1974 the hangers in the bolt kits look all the same, but the hand drills all change. The 1970 Troll hand drill looks awesome! 18 or so years ago Stephane Pennequin sent me the 1974 Troll bolt kit. The early Troll 1970s hangers are rectangle on the bolt side, and the late 1970s Troll hangers have an extra cut on the bolt side, and a different outlined “troll” stamp is added under the carabiner hole.
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