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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 11, 2015 - 12:33am PT
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The dread "bookshelf" climb of yesteryear is today's choss pile.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 11, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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Brian.....I tape but I think tape gloves suck. I tape new every day and throw the tape away when done.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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May 11, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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"Free" is the term that has most changed in climbing. Weight the rope,or the gear, it's not free. Period, end of story.
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steve shea
climber
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May 11, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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Hero loops on a string of stacked Leepers offering the chance for a big screamer.
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rockanice
climber
new york
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May 11, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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"ThankGod" holds
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perswig
climber
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May 11, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Gunks tie-off.
Dale
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 11, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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You missed my point. In the old days when we said it, we meant it. Nowadays people still say it and we keep reading here about injuries and fatalities because people then drop their team mates. In this case the words haven't changed, the meaning has.
Haven't dropped anyone yet. I've caught several huge falls which improperly belayed would have resulted in groundfall. Can't speak for any one else...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 11, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Just to be different, this may be a "new term". At least I think it's new, it occurred to me a few minutes ago.
CRAGLET. A small, scrappy piece of rock, with 3 or 4 bolt routes
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 11, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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THEN-Upon first sight, no beta, not gear list, no watching another climber.
NOW-I guess you can watch your buddy climb it. Get the beta, and rack, climb up to the crux, then down climb. Wait 10 min and then climb it with no falls or other shenanigans = onsight.
I always believed the only true onsight, is the FA if done with no falls or hangs...Can't get any more pure unless you honnold it.
Watching someone else is a beta flash, right? It is not a true onsight.
Climbing to crux, downclimbing still means no falls. Was it climbed bottom to top no falls? If so, then how much time you force your belayer to drink is irrelevant to the onsight.
If I go up to a ledge, untie, hang out, rest, drink a cold one, then continue climbing after tying back in, have I broken the onsight? No, same with starting near the ground.
Otherwise, if that were the case, a team could never onsight a multipitch line.
I suspect onsight is less of an evolved term than a term that got misused out of lack of consensus since it is relatively new.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 11, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
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DIZZytime, - when the jump turns into, - DIZZytime,
When the Jumar up the fixed lines turns into . . .DIZZytime,
Dirt ME - I'm done lower me, to the - Dirt ME!
Penalty Slack, _ given for infractions like standing on a pin. . . Penalty Slack
Pound it, till it Pings, When, pounding pins in - and then back out,
we used to take pity on the second, but when the thing kicked, you . . . Pound it, till it Pings,
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 12, 2015 - 06:23am PT
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stitch plate
up rope
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 12, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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and my seconds are always yelling' UP ROPE!
I will set up a directional every time I belay so pulling also happens a lot.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 12, 2015 - 06:51am PT
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Does anybody use French free anymore?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 12, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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Seems the new generation replaced "Up rope" with "Take"
BITD one-syllable words were generally associated with letting out rope ("Slack!") and two-syllable words were generally associated with pulling in the rope ("Up rope!" and "Ten-sion!")
How did the change occur so that one-syllable words "(Take!") means pull in the rope?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 12, 2015 - 08:47am PT
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A bit of history boys and girls.
"Up rope" used to mean to eliminate and slack in an upper belay and did not ever mean actually holding the climber's weight. The term for holding a climber on the rope was "tension." This was because in the early days, aid climbing was "tension climbing." The European pioneers originally used tension and double-rope technique but no stirrups---they climbed the rock with their hands and feet and tension from pitons placed overhead and alternately clipped.
I believe we got "take" from the Brits, shortened from "take in" and probably originally meaning the same as "up rope," which is to say the elimination of slack but not actually holding the climber in place.
It isn't hard to imagine how the desire to shout "take" to get all the slack out of the system before an imminent leader fall evolved to its present usage.
Brits shout "safe" when we would say "off belay." I think "safe" and "take" sound alike when the wind is blowing and the distance is great, which could lead to a nasty result. Not to mention the fact that "safe" has a presumptive air that does not always turn out to be accurate.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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May 12, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Rad
as a converse to
Trad
but thinking on it,
Trad
isn't really Trad anymore
with the beta spray on MP, convenience anchors, TR rehearsing, Dawn Wall sieges, etc...
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 10:31am PT
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Up rope" used to mean to eliminate and slack in an upper belay and did not ever mean actually holding the climber's weight. The term for holding a climber on the rope was "tension."
I still differentiate between the two using these definitions^
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 12, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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A bit of history boys and girls. Common knowledge for those of us who are older than dirt.
Regardless, one syllable means "let out some rope."
Two syllables means "pull in some rope" (whether taking out slack or pulling tension)
When did that change?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 12, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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One syllable (i.e. "slack!")could mean let out rope . . .
but it could also mean "pull like hell," (i.e. "HELP!")
Otherwise, since i'm also older than dirt, I'm with you. "Up rope" means to take in the slack; "tension" means "hold me."
John
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 12, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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Common knowledge for those of us who are older than dirt.
I'm aware. The site is well-supplied with dirty old men.
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