5.10d, The New Old-school 5.9

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brett

climber
oregon
Apr 29, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
Gotta repost this classic from rec.climbing 20 years ago, which pegs 10d as harder than 11a but easier than 11-. I wonder where 10 squeeze falls on this scale? mid 12?
From: Brutus of Wyde (bbin...@ebmud.com)
Subject: Re: You wanted trip reports...
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Date: 1995/08/24


> ave...@cs.ubc.ca (Alistair Veitch) writes:
> raw...@aol.com (Rawdomg) writes:
> Bzzzt, wrong! I thought 5.11- meant 5.11a/b, ie, low end of the
> 5.11 range. Likewise 5.11+ means 5.11c/d.


Alistair:
I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing difficulty, as follows:

.5.11a 5.10d 5.11- 5.11b 5.11 5.11c 5.9 squeeze 5.11+
.5.10 OW 5.12a 5.11d

Brutus

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 29, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
Is Lazy Bum really a solid 10d?

I would not think so . . . we used to tr it whenever we did the Jamcrack, '78-'79ish, EB's.

Probably 10b+/10c-.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 29, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Really awesome photo wstmrnclmr . . . gotta get back and get on that steeper apron.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Apr 30, 2015 - 11:00pm PT
They call it a sport climb these days but we all know it was a freed aid climb. For some reason, one of my favorite little climbs. A very safe tune up........Classic 10d
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