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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 11, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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Machette, 3 pitches 5.10 first pitch, 5.8 2nd and 5.7 3rd.
Saline Wall, Saline Valley.
Heading back next week for 5 days for more first ascents. It will likely never be that popular due to a 40 minute drive on a dirt road and another 40 minutes on foot but it's well worth the effort.
The crag is between 300 and 400 feet tall and over a quarter mile wide. Cant wait to go back.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Apr 11, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Bruce, I've done Here On The Inside, it was quite nice. I recommend it to friends often.
Thanks! Remember the long dihedral was fun and always wondered if anyone had relived our experience. You don't find many route traffic jams up on Loggerhead Buttress, though, do you? Good that Clint and Roger replaced many bolts up there. Must have been many rotten old 1/4 inch in place in that area.
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ruppell
climber
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Apr 11, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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Warbler,
LMAO. That's where my wife thought it started. I was sure it started farther to the right. Damn it. The wife was right again.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 12, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
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The Mosstrum
Covered in Moss ....... ?
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Kev,
Walkabout has only one bolt--I believe it is a 5/16 button head of all things. I have a good topo of the route somewhere. There was an off route bolt placed by someone up there on a previous attempt (where they thought they were going I have no idea).
Chappy
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Batrock, we need to stay in touch! I just got back from Saline Valley, hiked Beveridge and McElvoy canyons with my kids during the day, some hot tub soaking and guitar jamming around the group fire at night, and breakfast with the jets and donkeys. I brought a bolt kit but never ended up even using our ropes (but some fixed hardware store ropes did help a bit with getting my kids past a few waterfalls) So much awesome potential there!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Robs
We did the 2nd ascent of the Flying Circus in the early eighties
Dave Evans led the first pitch with some circus like aid trickery
Me, Todd Gordon, Marg and Henny (Hensel) all jumared the pitch
and then Henny led the Muir Trail no falls.
I don't remember Henny adding any bolts, maybe someone can clarify that assertion.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 13, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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Got out and did Unemployment Line this weekend. Great climb! 11c traverse is a little different now, an only useful crimp failed when my friend pulled hard on it..but it is easy to A0 through it. The route protects very well. 5.9 variation on the last pitch is a great pitch, if it wasn't a little dirty, it would be one of the best 5.9 single pitch cracks. But it has a giant loose block as you try to mantle onto a ledge in one spot. My friend should of trundled it I thought, but he was afraid that there is a chance some hiker could be at the base or something....anyway, great climb!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jan 10, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
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Yes, what Craig said about "Flying Circus" on Tahquitz is indeed the truth. There were no falls taken by anyone involved on the second ascent.
One route that goes unmentioned in this thread (I believe) is a route on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks that Kevin Daniels, Tony Sartin and I did called "The Big Payback" V 5.10 A3+.
There are several pitches of very demanding (and scary) aid. Hardest aid pitch I ever led, took 11 or so hours to lead. Kevin led a pitch down low that, I think, is the one that has thwarted all repeat attempts and Tony led one higher up that is one of the most scary and intimidating things I've ever laid eyes on.
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