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Meaty
climber
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Jan 10, 2015 - 08:34am PT
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Can everyone just grasp what Werner said and get over it.....if you rock climb you've very likely used a hanging belay. I think we can all live with that fact, maybe a few like Charlie cannot understand, he's few and far between. Does it mean you haven't free climbed something? No, you've just used a hanging belay, who really cares besides the nitpickers?
We've done what we've done and we can live with it,,, or worry about nothing....it's an easy choice.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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I've always been impressed by Charlie Barrets bouldering ascents, but after this bullshit I'll never buy anything with his name on it.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Charlie has ever right to sound off. the climbing community is big enough for all of us.
That much said, one of the things I've noticed over the years is that when someone or some team shines especially bright, others feel secretly done out of their own thunder and start ranting. The biggest egos are often the most fragile in this regards, so instead of celebrating something wonderful, there is some dark internal compulsion to start tearing things down. The presence of intoxicants is assumed.
JL
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Oh my god, I onsighted the left ski track!!
Ask Bullwinkle!!
SPRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY!!!!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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It's always sad when people measure their self worth by how hard they can pull with their fingers. Shows they have very little else in life to be proud of.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:13am PT
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I soloed the left ski track on sight
So I assume you never heard anything about it or saw anybody on it prior?
Hmmm, OK.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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I know who I wont be buying guidebooks from in the future.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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So I assume you never heard anything about it or saw anybody on it prior?
This.
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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Just back to this forum after a long absence and read this thread thoroughly, the question remains though, ho DO they get the rope up there?
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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^^^^ LOL
This was the OP:
SUBJECT: Dawn wall! A0 5.14!
MESSAGE:
Agree? Or have ethics changed?
ANALYSIS: So, yeah, this took a bad turn at Charlie B's first response revealing massive (how say you Tacos?) "butthurt".
I don't know you Charlie B, but it is obvious you have much to contribute to the world. By all accounts You are respected for your bouldering / climbing AND you are about to publish an important book.
I suggest you think about the consequences of your posting and how it may affect your success as an author.
PS: Charlie, I'm sorry for my snarky youtub share, above. Peace.
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Under Achiever
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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You, sir, are a shameless balloon-popper.
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Gearhead
Trad climber
Novato Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:36am PT
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Hey Charlie, little advice. Drink a juice box and take a nap.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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I wish I were a climber, so I knew what you guys were talking about.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Or he's pulling our collective legs and laughing his ass off.
If Charlie is the hard man from Bishop no qualms here - I like that guy. Was always super cool to me at the gear shop and that runs a bit deeper than internet water ;)
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ruppell
climber
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:45am PT
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Yeah, after re-reading his posts, that's some comedy gold XD
Despite the language obviously meant to insight, we do allow (collectively) extra slack for the top in our sport in regards to ethics. The difference to ME is I don't give a sh#t what anyone says or does, spray or not. I Interpret climbing for me.
TC has to many earned the right to use tic marks/stashed camps / etc etc for the work he's put in over the last 20 years - but so long as you don't affect others experiences EVERYONE has that right.
Sure you can fix lines on the rostrum and siege it, but are you really putting I the work or just stacking the deck in your favor? Was TCs 9 years on the project enough for us to give him the benefit of the doubt in regards to style? WHO GIVES A SH#T :)
I'm more interested now in jiu jitsu these days anyway so this talk all seems kind of silly, like dorks arguing over the rules of Magic the Gathering (any other plains walkers out there?!??!//)
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jan 10, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Tom, I really liked what you posted there. It shows how taking a wider evolutionary developmental perspective on something (whatever it is, X; in this case, a hard-core climbing project dealing with achievement, progress, style, ethics, values, winning) - in terms of steps or gradations in space and time - also in terms of working w what you have, what's available at the time, in the here and now - can change, well, perspectives - re understanding, attitude, expectations, patience, flexibility, judgment, criticism, respect - all the above. This perspective, I think, can help (is a valuable one) in other venues as well.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jan 10, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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goddammit somebodys gotta question our acts of experience.
not sure why CB stopped where he did, maybe he passed out i heard he was a pussy of a drinker.
whats the style, or ethics of having someone hold a spotlight for ur accent?
Or having more salami delivered when you decide to hang a couple more days, What style is that?
These seem more in line with PCT hikers style.
Don't hate the messenger
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