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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Just add bolts, then it will be ultra safe.
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Just add bolts, then it will be ultra safe.
That's a fantastic idea! I'm on it!
Safety is our #1 concern in climbing!!!
So High and Slashface are next!!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Climbers have varying ideas about calibration of risk. In the case of high-ball bouldering the "sweet spot" for most is somewhere between the extremes of top-roping (usually entirely safe) and "don't alter a thing, use no pads." To some extent it's a matter of personal choice . . . but the social environment can be very persuasive.
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BAMF
Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
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YO YO YO as opposed to ho ho ho....anyway I was probably one of the first responders to the Blasphemy of moving or basically excavating and prying the boulder..around 10-26. I could still see pry marks...the orientation of the boulder was long side east to west...now its north to south...2 little anchor points of original rock are exposed at the grounds surface, these spots should make positioning the boulder like fitting a glove...if the hand fits don't acquit....sorry...Ive been a builder most of my life and the could have did a better job "covering their tracks" , however the did a quick and dirty job & just got the boulder out of the way as quickly and hastily as possible.
I contemplated saying something...I asked johansolo to say something only to refrain. I decided saying something would only hurt the climbing community, I was trying to get more feedback from other climbers before charging forward hastily " Like a Bull in the China closet"....but someone has alerted the Park Service...this was not a very good idea....or I would have done this...I was actually rallying a stealth group of people ready, willing and capable of performing a redemption mission...I'm currently a stones throw from JTNP....Any swift, silent & deadly takers to a late night restoration mission. Afterall, "NO Harm...NO FOUL"
I PITY THE PO FOO WHO BE STUPID ENOUGH TO LOWER A CLIMB TO THEIR LEVEL INSTEAD OF BRINGING THEIR A-GAME! LETS RETRO BOLT BACHER YERIAN SO WE CAN ALL DO IT!...NONSENSE! IF U F#CKED WITH THIS BOULDER>>>I WANT YOUR NARDS IN A JAR ON MY MANTLE....AFTER BURNING A CROSS IN YOUR YARD & A LITTLE TAR & FEATHER FOREPLAY.....SUCKKKKKAAAAA!
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BAMF
Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
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YO YO YO as opposed to ho ho ho....anyway I was probably one of the first responders to the Blasphemy of moving or basically excavating and prying the boulder..around 10-26. I could still see pry marks...the orientation of the boulder was long side east to west...now its north to south...2 little anchor points of original rock are exposed at the grounds surface, these spots should make positioning the boulder like fitting a glove...if the hand fits don't acquit....sorry...Ive been a builder most of my life and the could have did a better job "covering their tracks" , however the did a quick and dirty job & just got the boulder out of the way as quickly and hastily as possible.
I contemplated saying something...I asked johansolo to say something only to refrain. I decided saying something would only hurt the climbing community, I was trying to get more feedback from other climbers before charging forward hastily " Like a Bull in the China closet"....but someone has alerted the Park Service...this was not a very good idea....or I would have done this...I was actually rallying a stealth group of people ready, willing and capable of performing a redemption mission...I'm currently a stones throw from JTNP....Any swift, silent & deadly takers to a late night restoration mission. Afterall, "NO Harm...NO FOUL"
I PITY THE PO FOO WHO BE STUPID ENOUGH TO LOWER A CLIMB TO THEIR LEVEL INSTEAD OF BRINGING THEIR A-GAME! LETS RETRO BOLT BACHER YERIAN SO WE CAN ALL DO IT!...NONSENSE! IF U F#CKED WITH THIS BOULDER>>>I WANT YOUR NARDS IN A JAR ON MY MANTLE....AFTER BURNING A CROSS IN YOUR YARD & A LITTLE TAR & FEATHER FOREPLAY.....SUCKKKKKAAAAA!
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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I've never been to J Tree, but my daughter was flown out for a photo shoot when she was 15.
She never got the reach on White Rastafarian, but told me later that she enjoyed the hell out of hucking off it, multiple times. Pity when 15 year old girls are tougher than the asshats that pussified the landing.
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Port
Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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pussified the landing
Seems to me, "pussies" have no trouble sending with the full danger of a boulder...
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Dec 11, 2014 - 04:48am PT
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Sam has a tramp stamp.
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BAMF
Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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On 12-13-2014 I arrived to White Rasta Boulder to the Park Service moving the Boulder into its original location? The location seemed skewed but after a consensus was reached between the park service & the climbers who happened to be present, a final location was agreed upon.The boulder was then put into that location.
Even though the boulder appears to be restored to its original location, the persons who moved the boulder have forever altered its true
original location.
Everyone present at the boulder location restoration was professional, empathetic & committed to the recovery & impact on the natural environment. Even though the attempt to mitigate the environmental impact was exemplary, the boulder will never be in it's original state.
Everyone involved attempted to assist in it's accurate relocation.
The Park service was very cooperative & willing to make someone's wrong a right. They have currently initiated no restrictions to climbing the White Rasta & it appears things are back to an equilibrium.
Let's hope that we can all, as climbers become stewards to protect and exist with the environment with minimal impact. That we can educate & cooperate with each other, always for the betterment & long term preservation of the environment. So we all can enjoy climbing this
classic problem for Generations to Come!
I would like to personally thank Rob Mulligan for his professional
& diplomatic handling of the issue. His being forthcoming with the Park Service seems to be the proper solution. The Park Service New Generation of Rangers now is considerate, open & general concerned with not only impact to the environment but maintaining CLIMBER ACCESS. Now Rangers are Climbers & Climbers are Rangers. This common bond amongst climbers has extended our fraternity & relationship with one another worldwide. Climbers understand climbing more than anyone! Thank You!, Rob & Thank You!, Bernadette, with the Park Service..
After it's restoration, BA Baracus took a lap on the Rasta... after some young stud volunteer sent it in his "Tennies"... so I only got the 2nd on the newly restored problem.
I "pity the poo foo who even thinks of messing with our natural environment & jacking it up for the rest of us Stewards...SUUUCCCKKKAA!"
PS. "the truth always floats to the surface", WE WILL FIND YOU!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Dec 14, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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. . . the asshats that pussified the landing
You mean by putting pads underneath the climber?
;>)
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Dec 16, 2014 - 07:27am PT
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Scrubbing Bubbles, advanced interagation methods. I agree!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Dec 16, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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Per removing boulders at the base of things. The reasons John and I never fiddled with the stone beneath White Rasta was that while we tinkered with the moves before going for it, it always felt pretty doable so we never feared falling out of control, or at all.
Fast forward a year or so and move up to Idyllwild and a bouldering area called the Relativity Boulders (now closed) and a great problem called Speed of Light. This was a serious looking big ass dyno to a poor jug and a mantle top out - and it looked hard. There was a pointed rock at the base and we immediately dug it out and rolled it off because nobody in their right mind was going to commit to hucking a huge, two handed mo with that boulder underneath. It didn't look like a problem anyone would ever get first try so it made sense to pluck the stone below. Turns out I could do the problem after just a few test flights to vet the mo and the landing but it was V8 by later consensus and I never would have tried it with that back breaker stone below it.
So I'm think that moving obstacles is an issue only when we approach our limits. Of course when an objective danger has been part of the challenge of a problem, and it is removed, the experience is no longer the same, in the classic sense. But this is a tricky one no matter.
JL
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 16, 2014 - 10:10am PT
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Pretty weak. You don't get these kind of awards for prying out boulders under a highball V3 that's been done by a lot of people.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 16, 2014 - 10:57am PT
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Not reading all this bs, because it is beyond stupid.
I've hucked many laps on that thing. Pad, no pad. Fallen off the top once too. This is all beyond stupid because YOU WILL NOT HIT THE ROCK if you fall off!
I've taken the fall, I've seen at least 50 people take the fall. Not a single damn one of them hit the rock. Stories of broken legs/ankles, afaik, involved hitting the ground, usually padless, not hitting that little rock. 99% of the time, a fall from the business lands you immediately in front of it. Yeah, a tad close, and yeah you thought about it when up there, but no real hazard.
Stupid.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 16, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Now you've gone and done it Will.
What's the deal with that kind of man-on-the-scene sensible matter-of-fact information. That's not how this place works!
Thank God that menace to someones mind has been moved out of the way.
Hand me another PBR!!!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 16, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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5 people in less than 30 minutes did what hundreds and thousands bitched and complained and argued about on the Internet for weeks (much like politics).
Thanks for being different. We couldn't have done it without you...seriously.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Dec 16, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
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"I've seen at least 50 people take the fall"
That sounds like a HIGH count.
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Kironn Kid
Trad climber
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Dec 22, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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That is totally unforgivable. A crime. It's because of that boulder, that I was coughing up hair-balls before committing to the final dyno. The boulder should be relocated to its original setting. What next, chop down potentially dangerous cactus and Yucca's because we don't want to deal with the added adventure? This is inexcusable!
Russ
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Dec 26, 2014 - 07:15am PT
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A wheel chair accessible path and elevator would be nice. We need to provide access for all humans to all natural areas even if it renders them un natural.
Those poor monkeys must have run out of v-3 pebbles to safely climb.
Next time just wear a diaper when bouldering so when you poo yer pants on the way down it'll act as a bouldering pad when you land in yer doodawg.
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