Yosemite: Spray Paint in the Gunsight (!)

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Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Sep 13, 2006 - 12:05pm PT

He asked: "Anyone know how run out Mother Earth really is? What grade runouts w/ potential injury?"

This is another question beyond that of the spray paint but I'll say this: Mother Earth is pretty run out, but not horrifically so if you're tight climbing up to about 5.10A with little pro and 5.9 with no pro. The nailing above the big ledge has a touch of A4 but is mainly A2. I think pitch 8 has a short stretch of 5.12 by a bolt, and other places on the route have some 5.11, usually pretty well protected.

That route was put up (with Ron Kauk and Mark Chapman) in 1976 so the bolts--old 1/4 inch buttonheads--would need to be replaced. We all thought it was one of the best walls we'd ever done. Middle is really big right there.

JL

sketchyy

Trad climber

Vagrant

Sep 13, 2006 - 12:49pm PT

Mellisa,
A witch hunt is no time for rational thought. The only responsible way to handle this is to round up all fisherman and euros in the park and cane them severely.

telemama

Trad climber

midpines

Sep 13, 2006 - 06:03pm PT

Dirt,
Thanks for answering my question and doubts about the safety of the product. from what you said, it sounds like the perfect product for the job. I do hope it gets cleaned up and think I may be able to help.

Mr_T

Trad climber

Somewhere, CA

Sep 13, 2006 - 06:33pm PT

Thanks for beta on Mother Earth - esp. that it needs a rebolting. Been up a couple routes on North Face Apron. Strange that nobody seems to climb there anymore when stuff like Stoner's still gets lots of traffic. North Face of Middle stays in the shade almost all day - great if you want to climb in Valley mid-summer.

I'll be sure to bring a wire brush if I'm ever up there.

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Sep 13, 2006 - 06:51pm PT

Telemama, get in touch with Chicken Skinner, AKA Ken Yager. He's planning the removal, and doing testing and preparation now.

IT will take a few people who are willing to spend a good while doing this, so it's great you are volunteering.

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Sep 13, 2006 - 07:00pm PT

Today I called Napier, the company that makes the removall products, and set up a talk wiht them about specific issues for graffiti removal on rock.

I also found that there is a new removall, removall 400 in a spray can, that might be the ticket for gunsight.

BUt I'll know more tomorrow. Napier has several other new product I want to find out about.

CAMNOTCLIMB

Trad climber

novato ca

Sep 13, 2006 - 07:48pm PT

I need orange dots to lead me to the bar.

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:30am PT

Camnotclimb,

Try closing one eye.

Ken

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:33pm PT

Werner did it, he just won't admit it.

JL

WBraun

climber

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:35pm PT

Hahaha, I did it?

Mimi

climber

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:55pm PT

Hahahaha! I always knew you were a practical joker.

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Sep 14, 2006 - 01:57pm PT

Saffron fatty, those ropes are saffron.

Why do you think they call him the Dali Werner?

Ouch!

climber

Sep 14, 2006 - 10:48pm PT

I've removed small paint markings on rocks with small propane torches and a brush and putty knife.. Works great on oil paint.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Sep 15, 2006 - 12:21am PT

I believe this is how Dirt would tell us not to clean paint. Mea culpa. The horror!

From the Smoke Bluffs, about 15 years ago. There was a lot of paint there - popular teen party spot. And we didn't know better. Luckily, it rains a lot at Squamish, the moss and such grow quickly, and it only took a few years for the brilliant white cleaned areas to blend in. They didn't seem to be otherwise affected.

This may not work at the Gunsight anyway. Requires a compressor.

Anders

ps Possibly one of climbing tabloids would buy this - "Space Aliens Invade Smoke Bluffs" or some such.

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Sep 15, 2006 - 12:39am PT

sand blasting is extremely bad for sandstone and pretty bad for every sort of rock.

You don't want to errode or polish or etch the rock, which is what blasting will do.

A putty knife and a blow torch, that's a new one. sounds like a disaster in the making.

works on wood, if you are really careful, but wood is not rock.

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Sep 15, 2006 - 11:51am PT

Just an update.
As per Dirtineye's reccomendation I contacted Napier products and they are donating their product for the Gunsight. The product is eco-friendly. I have also lined up 2 water sprayers with backpacks. I will practice on some smaller rocks at home that I have spray painted and perfect the technique. We will take on this project at the Yosemite Facelift.

If anyone has had experience with graffitti removal and would like to take on this project you can email me.

Thanks,
Ken