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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 14, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Thanks a lot, Vince. I really appreciate it.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 14, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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An unusual view of the North Face of Alberta.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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The North Face of Alberta: Will Sim and Nick Bullock
Thanks to Will Sim.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
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Avery- Good on You for starting this thread and for sticking around despite the initial razzing you received.
Thanks to you I am back in touch with Andy De Klerk after many years and he will hopefully be chiming in around here before long. We worked together but haven't climbed so far but it sounds like the Planet Andy may be coming into view soon.
I build things uncommonly well and Andy's first exposure to my work came when he had to demolish an elevated storage platform that I had framed not long before that. We arrived at this after working together for quite a while and had a good laugh over it. We see eye to eye on quality of construction even at the point of real suffering. LOL
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
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North Face of Alberta: Will Sim and Nick Bullock cont...
Thanks to Will Sim
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poliszbob
Mountain climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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Wasn't there also an ascent, that started as NF and ended up on upper NE Ridge?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Thanks Steve and Clint. (Great pic, Clint)
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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I think your correct, poliszbob.
I believe Mark Wilford was the climber involved, but I'm not positive.
I'm sure someone will know the facts
Thanks
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Amazing contributions and moderating!
Thanks
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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poliszbob,
See nah000's post and Raphael Slawinski's photo on page 2 of this thread.
Mark Wilford, 09/1991: [traversed away from 2 to summit via northeast ridge]
Frank Jourdan, 07/1994: [escaped off face to descend via northeast ridge] and nah000's later post with the story from Wilford.
"It pays to read the thread." Only 94 posts, with lots of good stories.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:10pm PT
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poliszbob: there's also a link to a write-up by wilford a page or two back...
i knew the n face of alberta reminded me of something...
it wasn't until Avery posted the photo from ruddy a couple posts back, that i realized what it was:
hahahahahahahahaha ha!
it's all making sense now...
[apologies to those with more refined senses of humour...]
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
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3, Barry Blanchard and Gregg Cronn (1983)
3, Barry Blanchard and Gregg Cronn (8/1983)
In Blanchard's Alpinist article "The Calling",
he mentions Alberta was done 4 months after Andromeda Strain,
which was done in 4/1983.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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Thanks Clint
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 15, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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The one report I can definitely rule out is that of the Robinson/Guthrie ascent.
Ward preferred to maintain his privacy, which is something I will certainly adhere to.
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John M
climber
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Nov 15, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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I then decided to approach every successful NF party I knew of, in the hope of getting a short trip report from each. So far, I have six excellent short reports covering six separate ascents of Alberta's NF.(This includes Will's pics)
I'm glad you did this.. Great stories..
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Andy de klerk
Mountain climber
South Africa
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Nov 16, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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Are we sure that there were no ascents between 1992 and 2006?
It Seems like a very long gap, too long perhaps?
Is there anyone who can fill in some detail?
This historical compilation is fascinating.
Andy
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Nov 16, 2014 - 11:22am PT
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Adk: in jon walsh's article for alpinist, he mentions that there hadn't been any ascents [prior to his and brazeau's ascent in 2006], "in more than a decade."
so while it seems improbable [and someone may very well have snuck in there and climbed it], it does appear that there was a gap of 14 years, during which there were no ascents...
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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14 year's does seem a long time. but stranger things have happened!
I agree with Bruce, lets hear about some failures (honorable or otherwise)
I'm going to need some real help (ie local knowledge) with this.
At the present time I'm still busy trying to secure a few more "first hand accounts".
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 16, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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Mt Alberta, North Face: Will Sim and Nick Bullock, cont
Thanks to Will Sim
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