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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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May 12, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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Is that unusual? Can't carry a sh#t ton of clothes up a big mountain. Beyond BC, I usually have 2 pairs of socks and alternate them.
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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May 13, 2014 - 12:54am PT
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HT: "Yeah......I sure couldn't make it to the South Col. But hundreds have summited, ever since 1953. Many without oxygen."
..but how many did it SOLO, with no fixed ropes and no Sherpa help? I do not claim that their ascent, if successful, would have been done with the purest style, but their ascent would put them somewhere between Messner or Buhl, and the hordes that went up in siege style or in flocks, with massive Sherpa help. To succeed, they must have the determination and logistics skills that very few of us have.
HT: "What is needed is much better monitoring of the Khumbu icefall and Nepali cojones to close the route to all when it's in bad condition. So there might be years no one gets past the icefall?
Tough S**T"
Regulation by the locals is an insane idea. Should LA climbers decide when it is cold enough to climb in JT? ... Should the Chileans decide when it is safe to climb in Patagonia, the French decide when to open the Mont Blanc, etc!!
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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May 13, 2014 - 01:05am PT
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We lost a real gem when Goren died.
Agree. His solo ascent was foiled but he did climb it with another team.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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May 13, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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crankster said: "His solo ascent was foiled but he did climb it with another team."
you sure about the climbing it with another team bit?
pretty sure that while his first solo and unsupported attempt was turned around just short of the summit, he did successfully try again using the same methodology. while he "admitted" to using the sherpa set route on the way back down due to exhaustion, that was the only compromise, if my memory serves correct, regarding the self supported and solo climbing doctrine that he set for himself...
regardless, a man with vision ahead of his time...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 13, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Regulation by the locals is an insane idea. Should LA climbers decide when it is cold enough to climb in JT Irrelevant comparison as is Patagonia
Capitalistic Tourism vs real climbing. Paid porters/Sherpa lives at stake vs unassisted climbers. A dozen paid workers dead in one accident.
I agree closing the Western Cwm when the risk is excessive is controversial. I'll even agree it may not be a good or practical idea. But don't make ridiculous comparisons.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 13, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Are the days gone of small teams attempting new routes on Everest?
Only a few left and it requires a good sponsor.
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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May 13, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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Flying in to camp 2 on Everest is very poor style, just as flying into Denali to the top of the glacier is very poor style. And driving into Yosemite to within just a few feet of the base of the climb is equally poor style.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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At what point is flying anywhere deemed 'good style'?
signed,
The Ozone Layer
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 13, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Good flying style:
Soaring.....Condors
Hovering....Hummingbirds
Speed.....Peregrines
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Barbarian
climber
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May 13, 2014 - 02:21pm PT
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...but how many did it SOLO, with no fixed ropes and no Sherpa help?
Messner was the only true solo with no one else on the mountain.
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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May 13, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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I agree with Guck.
How many of you who made BS comments here had done any 8000 meters, or even 7000 meters?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
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What's a "BS comment", one that you don't agree with? And what does having
done a high peak do for one's ability to formulate a cogent opinion of what
good style is?
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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May 13, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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Calling these two women "bitches" are not cool, just because they are women?
If you have not done any 8000 meters, you can not judge the "style".
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steve shea
climber
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May 13, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Seems the the use of the helo is help. There will be remnants of fixed lines from post monsoon '13. Also there are 7 sherpas just in case. An ascent of the big E starts at the base. Not the Western Cwm. The ladders on the step blah blah blah. As far as being on a par with Messner? I do not think he used air support. I saw Loretan and partner first hand tandem solo the Hornbein in '86 and they started at BC 16,000.
These will be regarded as stunts, non ascents, just high altitude hiking. What do you mean that we cannot judge the style? The style turned to $hit as soon as they took the helo assist.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
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If you have not done any 8000 meters, you can not judge the "style".
I must have missed that logic when I read Hegel. If I climbed a 7950 meter
peak would I be entitled to an opinion?
I didn't see the women called 'bitches'. That isn't BS, that's way worse.
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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May 13, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Base Camp may will have to be higher soon because of Global Warming.
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steve shea
climber
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May 13, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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Wow, yowza...
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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May 13, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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I just can't understand why people don't pick their sh#t up as they trudge unskillfully up that poor mountain. If you can't wheeze your way up that fuker, without dropping trash like turds, don't climb it. It's like all the BS at the local crags with people discarding trash, cigarette butts, etc. etc. Pick your f*#king sh#t up when you leave. How hard is it? Bag full of bottles and cans from this weekend at my local spot. F*#king disgraceful.
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jstan
climber
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May 13, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
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S/C:
Know how you feel but don't despair. Back in 1970 a few of us began picking up trash in the Gunks. Pretty soon people started asking if we had extra bags. Last word I heard was that people are still doing this forty years later.
We are not going to be the answer however. Today's kids will be the ones to solve the problem. The last event I was on, families with kids under three were out there working as families. The kids love it. Em's two year old studied everything he found and wanted to know all about it. He kept it up for a really long time for a two year old. When he got tired Em put him up on her shoulders and they kept going. I never did a climb that pleased me as much as does seeing really great people stepping up to the line like this. Like you are doing.
Everest will one day cease to be a foe and will become a member of the family. An overly demanding father surely, but a member of the family. The process has already started.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2014 - 02:45am PT
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Here's an interesting post from Russel Brice. Evidently he has had a lot of bureaucratic problems with the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism because of Wang Jing. Of course the Ministry of Tourism is being completely hypocritical in declaring the mountain open for climbing still, and then trying to punish him for her actions.
Many of you know that I have been dealing with the logistics for Jing Wang to climb the 7 summits and 2 poles in record time. Of course this project came to an abrupt end when I was forced to cancel my Everest and Lhotse trips.
I suggested to Jing that she go to the North side of Everest and obtain a climbing permit from the CMA or CTMA, but this was not forthcoming. Although Jing asked if I could arrange for her trip to continue on the South side, I refused and so did all my Sherpa staff.
In the event it appears that Jing has arranged to continue to climb with another agency and has without permission flown by helicopter to Camp 2, despite me warning her not to.
This has caused me considerable problems with the Ministry, who say that I am still responsible for Jing, despite me not knowing who the other operator actually is. Well in fact I do know who this operator is, but he continues to tell me lies, saying that he has not organised the 7 Sherpa’s that are currently with Jing, although they all come from his company. Even after repeated phone calls he still does not come to the Ministry to take on the responsibility of the Sherpa’s insurance and other such matters.
In the meanwhile the Ministry says that they will punish my company, quite a large fine and probably banned from coming to Nepal for 5 years. It is only in the past few hours that I have now been cleared of the responsibility for Jing and her phantom operator.
So for members who might think that I have carried on with my expedition, please know that this is the exact opposite, these actions of others has caused me considerable pain and hard work to clear my company name in the past few days.
Regards Russ
 See more at: http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/2014-expeditions/the-daily-moraine-everest-2014#sthash.gEQF5GWc.qYo4Zb0Y.dpuf
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