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Brosef
Big Wall climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 12, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
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As the one in the red shirt in the picture, I can say neither Jeremy or I were the purchaser of the Bud light lime....but after running out of beer it sure tasted good....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 12, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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Everyone talks trash about the BLL until the temps exceed 70F. Then it's all
"Hey Munge, I really like the BLL. Don't tell anyone."
Bunch of Limeaphobes!
At least BLL controls the Scurvy in the desert.
Exactly.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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May 12, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
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More like Budweiseraphobes. Nuttin wrong with a fresh lime in a Pacifico.
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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May 12, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
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Does Jim Beyer actually exist?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 12, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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He does but does A6b?
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 12, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
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At least he is still climbing unlike most of the folks here that post OT crap everyday.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 21, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Been out shooting and even some climbing for the past few weeks. Even crossed paths with another tacoan.
So, if I understand this right, Jim has put up some outstanding routes on harder rock types.
Kudos and congratulations.
But there is copious evidence of, shall we say, non-conservative actions, known to exist on his sandstone routes, and that is at the core of this discussion.
I am glad to see gumbyclimber was coming forth with a very credible post even as I was crafting my last one.
For me it comes down to having experienced the sudden loss of so many friends that climbing seems plenty dangerous without booby traps.
I believe that gumbyclimber has little to no reason to post such a thing if it isn't true.
I wish Jim all the best, but I have no interest in repeating his routes. Saying caveat emptor is one thing but feeding your ego by causing death is ethically atrocious.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 21, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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Well, on his recent Valley FA's on Liberty cap, there are multiple A4-A5 pitches sporting many rivets in each pitch.
He goes on to list the hardware he uses (types of rivets) and makes sure to note that there are no 3/8ths bolts on any pitch.
Now, I use the same hardware he does on my routes(machine rivets, button heads etc) Same size, same shape.
The only way to assume a pitch is A4-A5 with many rivets is that the FA knowingly placed bad rivets.
Plenty of whippers on my rivets, and I trust them to the fullest. NO way would I rate a pitch A4 or even god forbid A5 If I drilled that many rivets as shown in his topos.
Seeing that on a topo eludes to poor craftsmanship in the form of badly placed rivets. A guy of Beyers mileage on FA's knows the difference.
Just an observation and opinion though I will never climb any of his routes. Liberty Cap has some of the most bombproof rock in the valley.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 21, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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So, time bombs on granite too?
I must admit that at times I use a "quickie" bolting technique that only a few people have seen that permits me to get in a body weight anchor super fast, but subsequently I will descend from the belay to rework the hole so that the route is, at that spot at least, safe to repeat.
That some routes may have conventional bolts (with hangers) that I placed early on, before for the greater part using drilled angles, that now may begin to fail is highly regrettable by me, but they were placed in a good faith effort, and thankfully it is not something I am hearing about yet.
I would not leave a drilled anchor that I deemed likely to fail shortly.
What mucci points out seems to be more evidence. Where is our WOS "inspection team" (Ammon and Kate)?
Duty calls!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 21, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
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It seems as though rickd is standing up for a controversial character... ;-)
cheers rickd
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 13, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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just came across his topo of Hamas Fights For Freedom (VI A5+), which apparently was put up on October 31, 2014.
anyone see him establish this route? looks like it's close to Iron Hawk.
the topo itself is mildly entertaining and could be self-parody for all I know.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 13, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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Butcher, an autobiography?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 13, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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anyone see him establish this route? looks like it's close to Iron Hawk. Yeah saw him up there for a couple days when I was there. As I recall he was in that area.
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Nov 13, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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What happened on Wall of Early Morning Light? Since it's right there on one of the most prominent parts of the entire Yosemite valley, I would imagine that it gets a decent number of ascents (at least by Yosemite locals). Is there a new bolt chopping controversy on WEML?
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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ms55401 said: "just came across his topo of Hamas Fights For Freedom (VI A5+), which apparently was put up on October 31, 2014. anyone see him establish this route? looks like it's close to Iron Hawk. the topo itself is mildly entertaining and could be self-parody for all I know."
Self-parody? Hmmm. In a world filled with too many of them already it appears that another jackass motherf*#king Jew hating anti-semitic prick is on the loose to me. Normally when one is trying to be ironic, self-parodying or humorous, they put a :-) or a LOL at the end to indicate they are joking. It's distressing to see such bigotry and ignorance outside of backwater banjo pickin' Appalachia or a Muslim country still going on in this day and age. Very Very distressing.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200319500/North-America-United-States-California-Yosemite-Valley-Various-Activities
Jim Beyer put up a new aid route that is a candidate for the “hardest route on El Cap.” Dubbed Martyr's Brigade (5.11 a5cR—his own twist on the rating system), the line was put up over 20+ days of stormy weather. The line is located near the North American Wall, between Reticent Wall and Space. One of the radical aid moves involved using an ice axe, taped to a long stick-clip, to blindly hook a block 20 feet away. In Alpinist magazine (Issue 1) Beyer wrote, “I drilled a lot of bolts, but chopped about an equal number on surrounding routes. Creating hard pitches, destroying pathetic bolt ladders (Early Morning Light)—it seemed to balance out in the end.”
Looks like Jim Upgraded Highway to Hell's 1st Pitch.
A5 to A5C, not often that happens!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:12am PT
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Be careful on his routes. I'd say "heads up" , but that's not ways the best policy.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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5cR.......weird or what. Breaking A5 into letter grades is bad enough but to give it an R rating is beyond the pale. Is there an A5G out there? Wouldn't one assume that A5 (if such a rating exists) is at least R. The definitions i have read would assume an X rating to be appropriate.
Again, i don't believe that A5 (based on it's definition) has been proven to exist....let alone A5c.
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adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Go Jim (Beyer of course)! Still getting it done.
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