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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 31, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
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No lie. They don't want to write the whole mag. They are always looking for new material from outside.
They surely don't want to redo everyone's work but nowadays writing is widely considered an amateur kind of thing with all the blogging and so forth and many of the professional avenues have shut down. So you end up with trip reports and self-absorbed blurbs or twitter rants - but rarely any narrative writing, because they takes a long time to churn out, even for pros.
What's more, most leading climbers got sponsored right out of high school and never went to college so the chance of suave articles coming from that group is pretty remote.
You can fault the mags, but there are many factors at play in the downward trajectory. But there is still some excellent stuff out there and some talented folks. Why not add your voice to the mix if the issue is really that dear to you?
JL
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 31, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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Why not add your voice to the mix if the issue is really that dear to you?
I did, in a well thought out "Letter" that was to be a rebuttal to a piece written about Yosemite "Ethics".
JJ pulled 2 sentences out, and put it into the "comments" section.
I specifically told him, to use the letter in whole. He never contacted me and basically did what he wanted.
He protected the author of the original piece.
Keep up the good work JJ
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weezy
climber
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Jan 31, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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thank you for your response, alexander.
cheers from two hours north!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 31, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Hey Alexander Pina,
thanks for your input!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 31, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Alexander, that is some hopeful news. I wonder whether there has been any
talk amongst you guys of some sort of rez-wide position on bolting, especially
Bosch-powered, if and when things open up?
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weezy
climber
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Jan 31, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
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you guys are begging for water from a poison well
it's all choss down there, every last bit
sand in your eyes, sand in your mouth, sand in your pants
bad anchors, shitty pro, nasty approaches
wide cracks and chimneys and poor bolt ladders
cats and dogs living together
no chicks in sports bras warming up on your project
no point in even going there at all
just go to the creek instead
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Alexander Pina
Social climber
Arizona
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Jan 31, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
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Yes most areas are choss n crumbly... but there are more than a few hidden gems that are unknown which leaves the goods stuff UNKNOWN and for the locals enjoyment.. well any way its not for everyone for sure. I did not grow up here but this is where i a have made my roots and i love it here..so this is an invite to adventurous...come check it out!
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Alexander Pina
Social climber
Arizona
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Jan 31, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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I am Navajo..bro! of course I'm a gooder advocate for my lands!!..:) Navajo joke buddies!
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Alexander Pina
Social climber
Arizona
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Jan 31, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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but as for the whole tribe of course not...i am only one strong voice amongst many...
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 31, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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BASE104 The wing suit fatality I mentioned was near the Confluence of the Colorado River and LIttle Colorado River, in the Grand Canyon (but on land accessed from and claimed by the Navajo Nation). The people who enjoy hurling themselves off cliffs have been slamming this area, as evidenced by two fatalities in the last 15 months or so. Also, some morons did a jump near sunset, without knowing the hike out and were rescued at taxpayer expense by a DPS helicopter. I recall that an officer from the Navajo police hiked down and showed them the way out.
Thanks for piping in Alexander Pina. Was that you sitting on a bouldering pad in one of those movies that Burr made about his radness? Just curious.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Thanks for all that Alexander Pina!
Dingus, where did you get that Rock and Ice info?
Is their target Demographic really " men only"?
That would explain a lot.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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JL,
ME write? What about?
Duane has already stolen all of my good stories, inflated them a little, and now I can't show it to my family.
I think that there are a lot of people who could write. A lot of the great Yosemite Literature from the Golden Age is priceless, and many of them didn't go to or finish college.
I have been threatening to write a tell all book covering everything from climbing and jumping to high power rocketry.
It shall be called: Strange F*#kers I Have Known.
It will be a best seller. Just gotta remember to never use semicolons.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
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Albatross:
OK. I know the site. Unfortunately BASE is now something that everybody knows about, and the number of jumpers has been rising exponentially.
Getting killed is the worst PR of all. The wingsuit craze has people dying nigh daily.
As for the wankers who had to be rescued, they were ripped a new as#@&%e for calling in a rescue. They were idiots. Unfortunately there is no way to weed people like that out. It was easier to control when there were only 20 active jumpers on the planet.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:49pm PT
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Climbing on the Rez;......Arachnid Buttress, Canyon De Chelly....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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Buzzworm Arch, Chinle, Arizona...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Round Rock, Chinle Spire, Round Rock, Arizona
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
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Arachnid Buttress......we needed more than 8 quick draws to complete our ascent.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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Basecamp for Los Gigantos.....Round Rock, Arizona.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 31, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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Home sweet home when I lived on the Rez..........($15 a month....).....but no running water or flat screen TV......Lukachukai, Arizona 6,550' elevation. 1701 population. Median family income; $11,250
62% of people lived below poverty level.......
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