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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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It would sure be a serious job.
I would love to see that trip report almost as much as I've enjoyed this thread!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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Mighty Hiker,
I think it would be very difficult to re-use the same holes on the lead. I don't think modern gear would help much, other than a few pockets there is only about 50 feet of crack climbing in 2,000 feet of climbing.
As far as the sharp crystals go, I thought of using slings wrapped with fire hose to extend them over the dike (after the climb). During the climb we realized we did not bring near enough slings. The wire slings is a great idea and just go for the ride if you have to. We were well aware of what the consequences could be if someone fell and fortunately no one did.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there survival and warbler... say, my brother, chappy, he is home now, or was... but i think he may be heading back to PRAGUE soon... (oh, my... is that how you spell it?).... '
my mom says that there is some work or something, that had to be ?redone?----i will call him tomorrow night... and see if he can say "hey there" to you all....
or, at best, i will post a fast "hey there" or something... as you have asked before, and i have not gotten hold of him...
sure, enough, i miss him....
i have two wedding pics... but i would not post, as i know he would prefer to do that on his own....
he has been veryyyyyyyyyy busy, though...
he has his first anniversary coming up----APRIL 21ST
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
Thanks for continuing to include your thoughts on this thread. It is just so much more relevant when the main players are part of the conversation. Did you take turns being in the middle of the team and having a belay from both sides? Surely one person didn't have to bring up the tail every pitch.... That would have been as horrifying as leading and infinitely more stressful than being in the middle. What did you guys do?
neebee,
Tell your brother that we're talking about him, and that we'll be looking for him at the facelift in September!
Timely bump, I love it when this thread and "Growing Up" are next to each other on the list....
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 08:40am PT
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Bruce,
I had just gotten over knee surgery and wasn't in the best climbing shape but went along for the ride. I went last on all the traversing pitches but one. Some of the bolts I lowered off of and others I probably should have. I freed what I could at the time. The one pitch that I didn't go last on, I did have a belay from both sides and was able to free it.
Ken
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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I will be in the Valley in the next couple weeks, then back again in July and probably back for another trip end of summer if the funds hold out.
If you need a pack mule to haul ropes, pull bolts or anything of that nature let me know, I'd be happy to help out anyway that I can. Just send me an email.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Mar 24, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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I just inadvertently reread this one a second time (in conjunction with coz's tale of Southern Belle) and it's just as good the second time around.
Holy cojones, the south face of Half Dome is one wild and beautiful place! Y'all have done some wonderful, rare and exceptional things here. Thanks for sharing that. Maybe in my next lifetime I will even approach just thinking about doing routes like these.
Eric
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Ken - Is the giant diagonal dike hand traversed at all ? (and) Was a 'direct start' from the right-leaning arch lower down ever considerred - or do you see the ledge approach/start as important to the route ? These are great pictures . Thanks for posting them . BtW : Are bigger files of these images (still) accessable ?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Bump for badass razor-dikes!!! (Not a lesbian meth biker club)
First page for the money-shots. Is that last pic unprotocted to where the climber is? I'm scared!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 25, 2009 - 07:14am PT
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hey there, say, thanks for the bump... i had not seen this... very good stuff here...
thanks...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H asked "Ken - Is the giant diagonal dike hand traversed at all ?"
Only one pitch where it was slightly overhanging. This was the one through the black streak. We called it the Yardarms. Dave and I almost got taken out on that pitch by rockfall. A giant rock came down and hit the slab above us and broke into about 20 pieces varying in size from basketballs to refrigerators. I vividly remember the wind and the shadows on the rock as they traveled past our heads with Dave and I looking at each other white eyed and wondering if this was it. The slight overhang saved our lives.
"Was a 'direct start' from the right-leaning arch lower down ever considered - or do you see the ledge approach/start as important to the route ?"
We were trying to find the easiest way to the long diagonal dike. It is an intimidating piece of granite and it was a giant expanse of unexplored rock. We thought that once we got to the dike the route wouldn't be too bad. We were wrong. It seemed like a big enough project starting from the ledge.
"Are bigger files of these images (still) accessable ? "
I have the original slides probably about 60 of them. I haven't taken the best care of them over the years. When I scanned them I was just learning how and playing around with Photoshop. I could do a better job now with some time.
bluering asked " Is that last pic unprotected to where the climber is?"
Sure looks like it. The last three pitches to the top seemed so straightforward and were quite a bit easier that a lot of pro didn't seem needed. I remember only one piece per pitch. We were ready to get the heck out of there. It looks like you could get more pro than is in the picture. We did not have small cams at the time and I don't even remember bringing pitons. There was less than 50 feet of crack climbing on the left variation in about 2,000 feet of climbing.
Ken
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 25, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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Bump for great pics and stories
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mankymonkey
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Someday, someday... The south face of Hame Dome sure has some strong mojo...
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mankymonkey
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Ken - All the bolts are above the dike, save for the Yardarms pitch? Seems like hand traversing could help protect the follower... is that even feasible?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 28, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Bump this again. Ken, awesome tale!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Mankymonkey,
The Yardarms seemed to be the only pitch that seemed logical for hand traversing. You may be able to hand traverse more of it but may have problems getting back up onto it to rest. The wall under the dyke is overhanging and smooth(not much for the feet)and it throws a big shadow making the dyke look bigger from below. All the bolts are above the dyke even on the Yardarms pitch though they are just above it on that pitch. Following or leading, our main concern was having the rope rake over the crystal coated edge and cutting, it wouldn't have mattered whether we were hand traversing or not. Lengthening the bolts with slings or cable runners would alleviate that problem. At least you won't hit anything underneath the dyke though it would be a terrifying ride.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 01:58am PT
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Isn't it Wednesday?
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....It's like Mars with air
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I missed this the 1st go-round.
RAD.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Yahoo. You two did such a proud line. Good on ya Mate!!
Nice throwing it out there for all to view and savor.
Ken, did ya get that Porter nut I sent?
TC
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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I did Tom,
Thank you,
Ken
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