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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:46pm PT
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Here's an oldy but a goody. Kris Solem on the first ascent of The Gold Standard on Voyager Dome at Courtwright - 5.12+.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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What, are you sayin' I'm old?
Shortimer, the thing I remember most clearly about that route was who's crazy idea it was in the first place (as in yours.)
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mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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Not as crazy as you sporting those lycra spandex pants Kris! HA!!
BTW, this is one of my faves. Proud send!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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Hey Levy, That's Medusa slabbin'? And up where I think he is?
I never thought I'd live to see the day...:-)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:53pm PT
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Tarbuster -- Is that Chuck Norris getting ready to jump on Stoner's Highway? =)
BTW, looks a bit too featured/vertical to be a slab...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
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It's Too Tall aka Dave Nielsen on Stoner's.
The only eastern arts he's versed in are the ones using the skinny pipes.
And I'm not talkin' 'bout his arms!
Here's Ursula:
Photo: Sean Curtis affectionately known as "The Weenis" (the original, not the current Tacoer) RIP Sean.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
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First Pitch of the "Original Route", Whitesides, NC....oh,
120' and No Pro!...5.7ish(OLD SKOOOL) and then there is P-3,
5.9+, 160' with only one bolt...and then there is "Connections"
right next to the "OR", P4 is 140' of 5.11b with only two bolts...then there is....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 25, 2006 - 06:40pm PT
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Ultra B:
that black rock looks to be a bit grippy/coarse.
that would be a good thing.
is it so?
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 25, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
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Sounds like NC is a lot like Tuolomne.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:03pm PT
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Hmmm, not so grippy! The term "Swipe and Step" originated in NC!
Lots of grit and lichen as many of Slab areas are north facing and of course the humidity and rain etc. create a wonderful environment for such.
And all of NC is notorious for "Runouts
from Hell"! When I climbed there for three years, I quickly learnd to, of all things, skip the clip as in many cases it ruins your momentum and you figure, "What the Hell" you're
already 50-70' out anyway, may as well just keep on truck'n baby!
There is nothing in this country like NC Slab Climbing. I have seen many stout and hearty 5.11 climbers simply pack their
bags and not even try to get on, lets say "Brown" or "White" Way on Stone Mountain. And this start to the "OR" has made many a hearty climber simply say, "F*&k That!!!!" and leave.
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Joe Metz
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 25, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
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Power Dome, Shorty?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 26, 2006 - 12:54am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 26, 2006 - 02:50am PT
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nice pics of xmas tree pass Gary.
great thread all, i'm surprised i avoided it.
Tuolumne gold!!! in them thar hills
slab 4 sure
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2006 - 02:56am PT
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Well, having gotten this thread started, I thought I ought to contribute. I finally got a scanner, and am starting to figure out how to use it. Here are the first results, naturally of slab climbing.
I'm still figuring out things like image size and techno-trickery to make everything look harder. Any suggestions on what to specify?
This has Dave Lane in the foreground, on the second pitch of White Lightning on the Apron in Squamish. June 1976. The pitch was originally graded 5.9, now middle 5.10. In the background, Scott Flavelle and Perry Beckham on the second pitch of Bloodlust Direct - "easy" 5.11.
And here's Dave leading the third pitch of White Lightning. Hardish 5.10.
Note the extremely cool clothing, footwear, etc!
More to follow, as and when I have time.
Anders
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jul 26, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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Anders, I actually posted the other photo large on purpose to give a nice perspective on the amount of granite on Power Dome. It doesn't matter how you scan things, you can always change the size/resolution once you load the photo into Photobucket. Or you can load the scanned image into Photoshop (you do own Photoshop don't you? - if not, buy Photoshop Elements 4.0) and change the size of the image there.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 26, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Here's an old slabmaster in action:
Herb Laeger on Trapper Dome at Courtright last summer. Yep, that's Guyman running the belay.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Too late to resurrect this thread?
Nan Burger on Tough Animals 5.9, Dali Dome.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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nice resurrect Gary...
"Tears of Joy" 5.6R
Brad Young and Jennifer on 3rd recorded ascent
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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oh snap! you didn't just post a pic of that place!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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bolton you mother f*#k invite me next time. i tell great stories (i.e., lies) and pack high-end booze n' buds and will lead any pitch you bitches dare me too.
'nuff sad.
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