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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:00pm PT
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Nefarious? WTF?
I edited my previous reply to this topic becuase I was reacting to ALDUDE's question about "erasure". It wasn't me who ask.
I'm also a member of this community and really want the names of Mark and Richard cleaned of doubt for good, and more hopefully, as their reputations, and credibility were sh#t on, all these years.
Just chill, and get YOUR stuff together.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:07pm PT
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Sorry, darod... Up too many hours. For some reason thought you'd asked about the route erasure and then removed. My mistake. My feelings still remain as to the topic not belonging here though, as that would be rather counter productive.
Again, I apologize. It's easy to get worked up and make mistakes when wading thorugh this topic.
Cheers!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:10pm PT
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I think many of us, while we may have opinions, are quite ignorant on all of the facts and are awaiting PTPP's post to kick things off. Although if I can make it to my storage unit I may copy some stuff that was printed in the old rags of the day. Anyone have those? I think I do. In terms of print there aint much else. I hate to assume that since it was in the rags it was correct but there was some stuff written up about this back in the day.
On a different note. Sounds like the ropes were fixed when the choppers/shitters did their deed? Otherwise they would have had to climb it? Then they would have known about the route. Anyone who would jugg the ropes and do that without actually climbing the route is a chickensh#t.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
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Yes, golsen, the ropes were fixed. Mark and Richard thought it was pretty chickensh*t too... What else could the choppers do though? Climbing the route wasn't an option for them.
Your printed stuff would be really swell! I'd certainly like copies of anything you have, as I'm sure Pete would! Feel free to email me offline, if you'd like.
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:16pm PT
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No worries. But don't worry about "bumbing" this topic, there're a few Supertopians that, including me and you, want this truth to come out, and won't let this subject go away.
Cheers,
darod.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
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To clarify the erasure rumor.....I believe it was features (micro-flakes,bathook holes ect..) that were the target - not rivets....hummmm?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 18, 2006 - 06:56pm PT
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Ahhhh... I know there was something to this effect on SummitPost recently. However, my take, as well as was both Richard and Mark's, was that nothing was erased. The route is simply that hard. You really just have to go to the base of the route, look at it and understand that they really did climb that stuff to "get it". I was lucky in that I was there to have Richard and Mark show us what they were hooking on. I stood on ladders on the placements. Previously, I'd have thought it a blank, unclimable face. It's pretty severe. I certainly wasn't game to climb it!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 18, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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The slab is so blank, the only way to climb it would be a rivet ladder.
Mark and Richard climbed the slab.
Well, then. There you go. The route must be a rivet ladder!
If you stand at the base, you can see that there is no rivet ladder.
Well, they must have chopped it.
They didn't chop any of the bolts or rivets.
Then, where is the rivet ladder?
There never was a rivet ladder.
Oh, I thought you said Mark and Richard climbed the slab...
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