Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 05:58am PT
|
This rope that rope. They're all firkkan these days. Get one made by a major Mfg with a UIAA rating that you can afford and call it good. I haven't seen this rope in the wild yet, but ROCA might have a game changer out. Anyone see this rope? From: http://blog.weighmyrack.com/2016-ropes-by-beal-edelrid-edelweiss-maxim-roca/ Kevin comes in the video at @ 6:30 in with the knife action. Click the link, vid is on top. Weigh my rack does a kick ass job here. Here's the quote:
Roca is releasing a new rope into their Endurance line, the 9.6mm Siriana. It has a new technology and includes a 1 over 1 sheath weave, creating very high abrasion resistance. Roca is touting, “about 300%” abrasion resistance and at the Outdoor Retailer show, Kevin Daniels demonstrated scraping the sheath with a knife. Impressively there was no visible catching or damage to the rope. [Watch for yourself in the video at the top of this post, or click here to see it queued on YouTube]
Even with such a durable sheath, Roca confirmed that the rope still handles very well. Roca has never had very wide distribution in the U.S. despite being a 100+ year old company. As a way to help the brand enter the U.S. market, this rope is priced very competitively. The 70m rope is only $180 and it’ll be available in dry and non-dry treated versions. Kevin has been testing the rope himself and reports, “It handles really well, knots really well, it’s got nice elongation. There is no negative; there is no catch! It’s a great value and a great product.”
This BS about "our new 2016 model ropes" is generally crap. They are forced to demo new things at the Outdoor retailer show, so I suspect that most mfg just rebrand their otherwise good ropes that they were making in 2015 and then they have a pitch for us. As they change models, the results are not available of folks who are on top of testing and trying them. https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-rope/ratings That said, I've only see one rope break in use (bad results as expected of course), and I suspect that was due to acid exposure, so spend the scratch and get a rope bag. Metolius makes a bunch of kick ass versions.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 09:31am PT
|
I love my Mammut. It's a 9.8 bicolor dry.
A word of caution about the very skinny ropes. I was recently on a trip with a group and we were all sharing ropes. One person had a 9.2. I belayed a couple of people on a toprope with that rope using both a grigri and an atc and neither gave any friction help whatsoever to that rope. it was like there was no device at all. It was a new rope and very slippery. So maybe it would improve with use, but it really made me wonder about catching a lead fall with that rope. Neither Denise nor I would lead with it.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 09:37am PT
|
Skinny ropes....8.9 to 9.2 are not suitable for top roping and everyday use, they aren't durable enough but for multi pitch routes I wouldn't think of using a rope thicker than a 9.2.
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Hell is empty and all the devils are here
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 09:37am PT
|
I just climb old routes. The 50 meter is still good. A friend bitches about that, though, he still believes in the 45 meter rope.
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 09:39am PT
|
The Trango Catalyst Unicore 9.0 looks pretty interesting. Looks like it has similar rating to a 10. Might be my next 70m purchase.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 09:41am PT
|
I like 60 and 80 meter ropes. The 80 meter is for one pich cragging....gets up and down most routes. The 60 meter is for multi pitch....I don't like the extra weight of a 70.
|
|
Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 10:33am PT
|
"This rope that rope. They're all Friggan good. "
I recently bought a 70m rope and took it on Serenity and Sons last weekend. After Serenity, my partner belayed at the highest tree right before where you start left and up on a ramp. I went for the 2nd bely where the two pitons and tree stance are. It was surprising to us that he had to do about 20ft of simul climbing. While rappelling, we were again surprised that there was barely much left when we did a 100' rappel (2nd one). In my observation, this rope may not even be 230ft (exactly 70m) long. I'm leaving the manufacturer's name out until I verify.
Which brand gives you a full 240ft for a 70 meter rope? (I hear some manufacturers cut it long.)
Also, what's the easiest (least hassle) way to measure the accurate length of a 70m rope?
|
|
skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
|
I don't know the exact length, but my sterling ropes always seem to be longer than other 70m ropes.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
|
Depend son where you climb I'm ordering an 80 myself!
|
|
ecflau
Gym climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
|
Mei - did you order it from REI? I had that same problem with a 60m rope once at REI. I found out on a rap that my rope was actually 52m and took it back to REI Mountain View. The manager insisted the ropes shrink over time (it was owned less than 1 year) and this was during their lifetime return policy, said he would not exchange or refund the rope. I insisted he talk to someone more knowledgeable, he refused initially but I continued to press and eventually he did.
The climbing guy said at REI, something about how they cut it from a spool so sometimes, a "60m" rope they are selling turns out to be too short, so they sell it as a 50m instead. Or some sh#t like that. Eventually they returned my money, but no apology or anything from the REI Mountain View store manager whatsoever.
Perhaps your rope length issue may be the same.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
|
ALL DYNAMIC ROPES SHRINK. That's info lots of climbers don't know. True though. That would be a great issue for Chris and Outdoor gear lab to take on and explore in depth with testing like they did with the headlamps. It may be that some Mfg always add extra length and some short ship, who knows. I once had a rope (a Maxim but they all shrink) shrink close to 20 feet exactly in one year. (We get them wet up here and it speeds the process up). One year I did a route and the ends barely reached, not quite 1-2 feet short off the deck. Next year, same rope and same route, just over 11 feet short from reaching the ground via rappel. 1 year near exact. It was surprising to me. I got better at tieing knots on the end afterwards, a lowering accident through a belay device in that instance would would been painful.
Some Mfg will cut them long to counter this effect. How old is your rope MEI? They keep shrinking, although not as fast, as they get older. (and wetter, like if you are washing the rope, even in cold water). Not sure the best way to measure, suspect a long tape measure would do the trick. Would also like to hear the details if you get them later.
|
|
Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:07pm PT
|
How old is my rope? Received in mid September this year. Been out exactly twice. :p Didn't buy from REI, but it was from a reputable online vendor, so I'm not too worried about return if it's confirmed to be short.
I need to measure this thing.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
|
I haven't noticed much shrinkage in my ropes, perhaps I should pay more attention.
There is a warm up climb on a cliff near me that I do often and with different ropes. It completly eats up a 60 meter route and I haven't observed a significant difference in rope length over time.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
|
Also, what's the easiest (least hassle) way to measure the accurate length of a 70m rope?
I'd say fold it in half, fold it in half, fold it in half, stretch it out straight and even, measure, and multiply by 8.
|
|
Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
|
Hmmm... I was thinking about weighing it.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
|
I suppose if you have a fine enough scale, and the rope doesn't have any appreciable dirt in it, that'd work.
70m x 60g/m = 4.2 kg (9 lbs 4 oz)
65m x 60g/m = 3.9 kg (8 lbs 9 oz)
Eh, if the length is off by enough I guess it doesn't have to be too fine.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
|
Gram per meter stats provided by the manufacturer aren't always reliable.....and however far off they are would be multiplied by 60 or 70. I don't always take the diameters given as completely accurate either.
|
|
Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
|
Gram per meter stats provided by the manufacturer aren't always reliable.
Apparently, the UIAA specifies that rope weights (in g/m) are to be measured with the rope under a specified amount of tension. This reduces variability between ropes in different states of relaxation. It also means that if you weigh your rope, untensioned, it will (if the manufacturer reports according to UIAA spec) nearly always weigh more than the published spec.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
|
a device you can slide the rope through and measure its true length
Oh, duh. I only worked at a hardware store for 10 years and used one of those probably hundreds of time to measure cut-to-order rope...
Feed the rope though, as you pull it it spins the wheel which turns the counter. Easy-peasy (as long as you don't mind lugging your rope somewhere to measure it).
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2015 - 11:22am PT
|
So basically, I can look for the one that is prettiest. ;)
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!