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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 20, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Lord, I have some good stories about "Duh" Simpleton and Mud flats Bob Schoenard "The Aid Man" who I did my first (and nearly last,) wall with. I'll get back after I slap some more paint.
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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 20, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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I've got to disagree with FRUMY. I'd never go around rating something 11b/c or even a because I couldn't climb 5.11a. I fell off the same move on Maggie's Farm for years and years. After I came back from England and had been in The Valley for a while I had occasion to go to Stoney and borrow a TR on Maggie's and I fired it, fairly easily to my utter surprise. They had to lower me in a hurry because my jaw was on the ground. I never tried it again because I didn't want to tarnish a good memory. Maybe he's thinking of Scott "The Old Man" Loomis, or maybe he's embellishing?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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greg thank's for the response. have you had time to get cole's video of stoney point?
also:russ wrote
May 19, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Yes it does MP. I used to buy gear from Greg Lilly at his home "mountain shop" in Alpine the very first year I started climbing. Haven't thought about that dude since. Super nice English guy. Wonder what's up with him these days.
Lithium Lilly? Isn't he the guy who beat Strappo with a lead pipe as Strappo slept in a hammock on his porch? Last I heard Lithium Lilly was doing like a 30 year stretch in the pen.
Fist!!!! Glad to read you are around and still viable and functioning! Good for you man! Your stories are great and bring back some memories... Carol Moyer? John Allen? Good stuff. Inflatable man? hahaha.... nice one. Hope to read more. Cheers!
Ps: How about D'Simpleton? Remember him?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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greg wrote about frumy:or maybe he's embellishing
i know the past couple weeks his back has made him out of it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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dr F the mimms and HDM are topics on their own....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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hey i think the Hand was not such the wingman but the Fist can make an awesome wingman.
Greg the fist can u post up some recent pic's of you along with some ole climber pic's if ya gott em'.
i'm heading over to stoney this late afternoon so i'll take some pic's for you!
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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 21, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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I'm trying to respond categorically to the first page of innuendo, slander, and fun fact I landed on, but in order to not become overwhelmed and be sent reeling into Wal-Mart (where my therapist keeps his office in the soothing pastels of the bath towel section,) I'll jump ahead. I am, by the way, very color conscious. My band was a hardcore punk band called BOHJ (Baby Oil Hand Job, 1990-1993.) On the night in question there were three bands and we were headlining. My band was on stage tuning up a few minutes before we were scheduled to begin, when my fiancee ran up to me and said that her life had just been threatened outside in the parking lot. I went to see what the problem was and without exchanging a word got into a fight with a large Nazi skinhead, who it turns out was all of 15 years old. Evidently, he was extremely upset because he wasn't old enough to enter the venue the show was at, which happened to be a bar. With everyone inside (about 300 people, a majority of whom I was acquainted with) waiting to see the show, it was just me and the neo-knucklehead going at it in the empty parking lot. I never saw the knife nor felt it. My friend Loni stepped outside the venue, saw the fight and came down to assist, which allowed me to break off. As I walked away I noticed something odd, and, looking down at my arm I saw blood jetting 10 feet with every beat of my heart. I was covered in blood. The motherf*#ker stabbed me, I thought as I walked to the front steps of the bar to sit down. Pushing my arm into my lap in an effort to control the bleeding I became aware of something odd under my shirt, and lifting it up I was greeted by my own glistening entrails. Although eviscerated, I know enough about medicine to realize that since blood wasn't pouring from my trunk, and with a hospital nearby I wasn't in any serious danger... it didn't even hurt. People began pouring out of the venue, including Debbie who let my band practice in her basement. She also happened to be an ER trauma nurse and took charge, ordering me to lay back, then yelling "Get me hot towels! Everyone get back and give him some breathing room!" Someone came out of the bar and handed Debbie a handful of towels which she used to take my insides that were outside and put them back inside, then leaned on them with all her body weight. It hurt like an absolute motherf*#ker, and I was never so happy as when I made it into surgery and they brought that mask down over my face. When I was wheeled into post-op six hours later I was the proud owner of 84 new staples. I'd been nicked over the eye and on my liver, and had a number of defense wounds on the back of my left forearm. Just a few inches over... if my liver had been centered odds are excellent I would have bled out, and I wouldn't be writing these words today. The kid stabbed Loni getting him through his leather belt and losing his grip on the knife now slick with my blood he ran, running with all the intelligence 15 years brings into the casino of a Holiday Inn. Wearing a white t-shirt covered in my blood he was arrested within minutes, and Simeon Able MacDonald ultimately ended up serving three months in the county lock-up for the two counts of attempted murder. Getting cut at that show was one of the most fortuitous events of my life. Before that evening I'd spent the previous two years working at Deux Gros Nez coffee shop. If you worked the Western Outdoor Retail Show back when it was still held in Reno you possibly went there. I hated working in the service industry, but it was the only job in Reno where you were allowed to be human. Taken off the schedule indefinitely I lost my job. My stripper-fiancee Monique (who had a rocking body and a brown-bag face,) impressed with my newly helpless condition dumped me. Unable to pay my bills I lost my apartment. In short, I lost everything, and with nothing left to lose I decided to take my talent seriously and teach myself to paint. My paintings began selling immediately, and at my second art show held at the Blue Heron health food restaurant I sold two paintings for $2,400. My rent at the time was $100 per month, and the sale allowed me to paint full-time. Since then I've completed nearly 1,000 paintings, and while I don't make a lot of money, I make enough, and the stories that people bring to me about what my work has meant to them is something money can't buy. As far as my politics goes
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 21, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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Hey Greg, any photos of your paintings you can post? These stories are great. Disemboweled! Damn dude, that's gnarly. Can't believe the kid only served 3mo.
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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May 21, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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amazing greg...thanks for posting!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 21, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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Great story -- I'm Glad you are around to tell it.
I'm glad you've had a chance to do what you are good at.
Pyro, I'm always given you sh_t for being a trouble maker -- well you did good, again.
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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 21, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
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Thanks everyone for the nice compliments. My website is: www.gregallenpainter.com
Here's one of my better paintings from last year:
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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My stripper-fiancee Monique (who had a rocking body and a brown-bag face LOL! happens to the best of us..
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 21, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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^^^ wow greg nice work...looks like a photo...great capture of the neon glow.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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dr F i've always loved the movie pricilla queen of the desert.
post the dave katz picture no problem this thread has leggs so that's the way she goes.
i'll post up pic's of stoney when i get home.
last night me and the gang were bouldering pretty good so i could deliver the pictures for greg.
although, frumy is named mark frumkin.
however, jeff lieberman was there and he said he'd give the goyle a call.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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hey hand do you remember the yafer?
also:
great crowd at stoney last night. so great i passed out and forgot to post.
p.s. Dr f would u use the fist as you spa wing-man?
HOT POLITICS!
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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May 23, 2013 - 02:59am PT
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Hi, I remember you from BITD...
Wow, very cool looking at your art.. Lots of really Great pieces!....
Not sure why you did not highlight your url ..... So worth it to check out his art.
http://www.gregallenpainter.com/galleries.html
ps...paragraph spacing would be nice....or even.. sentence spacing...
Cheers.
number, 123....)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Dr f u got it backwards ur guide book was published years after david Katz published his getting high in l.a. guide book in 1990.
By the way when is the next time u and the fist getting. Nekid in the hot tub again!!!!
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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 23, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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nita,
Thanks for the nice compliment and formatting advice. I only last night realized that not everything is fakebook, ugh, facebook, and I wouldn't be penalized by hitting the "Enter" key and having my scribbling posted prior to edit because of it.
Like this, see? I'm a quick study. I like to write, but am grammatically illiterate and an awful spellor. Thank goodness for spellcheck. I'm still chipping away at clarifying what was what BITD as best as memory serves, and as hard as I've hit it throughout my half century plus, I feel pretty fortunate I can remember my name most days.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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May 23, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Greg,
I very much enjoyed looking at your paintings on your website. [Thanks for the link Nita]
Glad to see you not only still around (and have a good sense of humor -- helpful with this crowd), but doing something that you really love and for which you have a talent.
Randy V.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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Dr f why r u taking credit under the photo's that you never took and were never. Given to you as you claim?
Did you ever once climb at purple stone's,tunnel boulders,Malibu creek state park or sunset stones? All which are included in your guide book?
Why would you publish climbing areas that you are not fimiliar with in a guide book?
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