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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Very nice synopsis, Clint. Thanks for your efforts.
I don't have my topos close at hand, so will have to make further corrections when I find that collecction. However, I can make a few corrections off the top of my head.
Antenna Rock is a small bluff directly above the road that has or had a normal TV receiver antenna on it with some ladders leading up to the antenna. It is on an obvious turn, directly above Balch Camp. It supplied TV reception for Balch Camp. With satellite TV and such now, the antenna may no longer be there. I did not think about the confusion between this antenna and the big microwave reflectors on top of Patterson Right. The slab labeled Antenna Rock to the right of the 3 pillars is the Blob, or whatever we called it. There is a dramatic Crescent Crack on that face, that Borrelli attempted and chopped his rope.
Looking at the photos, I realize I am a bit confused about Sex & Drugs, and Scary Monsters, at the 3 Pillars area. I only see one crack for two routes. I will have to find my topos to clarify this.
John Elazerian may have the FA on the upside down leg (On Patterson Right Apron). I think Haymond said he had not been up on this. Ben Dewell and partner were active in the 70's and did some interesting things, such as the actual FA of The Becky Route at Chimney Rock Spire, but I don't recall if he said they did climb at Patterson or not. I removed rappel pro and slings from a previous party the first time I went up it, so I know I was not the first. Not sure if the gear was at the apex or a bit below. There is a 5.9 variation down low, and lots of possible climbs on either side. Bob Simmons and I continued up the slabs in around 1984, but oddly without a bolt kit. Easy climbing fortunately, but I recall one belay on a bit of a ledge and a single hook placement. About 2 pitches up, there was an easy traverse off to the right.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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In the Road Gold area is a huge wide roof above a slab. Borrelli and I climbed the traverse under the roof for about 2 pitches,I think. We named it, One Way or Another. Silly, but a fun diversion. Mostly easy climbing on the slab with pro under the roof, but some pretty stiff underclings in spots.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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morning all, i did not post that pix, the only thing i posted was me doing a boulder problem at the campgounds by the lake, amy and i did go check it out in the spring of 2011, saw no one the 3 days we were there, followed the green tape to the balch camp flake, holy cow that was a goat trail, op ever where :-), but we had tek new and showers to wash off after hiking, super beautuful place, and next time i go, i am going to rap from the top at ross arossing road, and camp on top of the bluffs.happy climbing mike a.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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that's the one Mike. yeah, above would be less poak
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I wonder what the state of that trail is now? Bold goats only, I bet!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Wow -- I knew many people were climbing new routes up there, but I had no idea how many or how much people have done. Thanks for all the info, and particularly to Davey for starting this thread.
If I get the chance, and if the weather cooperates, I'll take and post a picture from Highway 168, in response to a request upthread.
John
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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I just noticed that the photographer of the Big Schwaaa photo is Jorge (Tuckess) Menchu, who did the FA on top rope. That means the climber in the photo is Mike Latendresse with Patty McCartney belaying. Jorge's comment at RC.com confirms that Mike lead the route first. Jorge, Borrelli and I found it and they fell in love with it. I could never get up it without several hangs, so I was less enthusiastic. I hate thin hands! Why do these small people like them so much????
Super cool that so many people are chiming in with routes and history.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Clint, change the Schwaa photo with this one to correct my error.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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Mike A., Sorry for the confusion.
John, I tried to have my wife take some pics from 168 while I was driving on Sunday. 31 pics and not one got the bluff.....hahaha
Paul, the 2p roof traverse you mentioned, I believe it is just up the road from Road Gold about 1/4 mile if I am thinking of the same spot. We looked at it for a bit and only saw a couple possible lfree lines. Never thought of a traverse. Very cool. This is a pic off Google earth I found. Is this it?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Cool area. I want to go back.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Nice catch Clint. You are correct. Changes made.
Really loving this thread and everyone pitching in. Hope to have another FA this Fri or Sat. While I am up there, are there any photos you guys want me to take if I have time?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Davey - I linked to your photo with the corrected caption.
I also added one by guyman which is a closeup of Balch Camp Flake.
Photo requests?
 color version of Three Pillars (and one including both Three Pillars and The Blob)
if possible (may be hard to get): photos from further away, which show the locations of Road Gold, slab above Road Gold, and Antenna Rock, relative to the road. Maybe from 168, as Rene has requested.
If there are no convenient roads with the right perspective, don't go on some crazy poison oak bushwhack. We can probably use the satellite view from google maps to show the crag locations relative to the road.
larger/more detailed versions of these shots by Kris Solem (or maybe Kris has higher res versions which he can send to me?):
(Wedding Wall)
(this one shows Patterson Falls Apron more directly, and the diagonal black intrusions to the right of Patterson Falls Apron)
larger/more detailed color version of Patterson Left, with good lighting
(taken from same place as this one, with same afternoon lighting, but color/detailed and not cropped so closedly)
The first photo which NoRushNoMore posted is detailed and not too closely cropped on the right, but has too much shadow (taken too early in the day):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1046600&msg=1046993#msg1046993
This photo which Mike A. posted has the perfect location, cropping and lighting - I just need a higher resolution version.
It might rain this weekend, though. So the lighting may not be good, etc.
No rush; get them when the conditions are good.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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I will see what I can come up with on the way in and out for pics. Weather shows 77 sunny for Fri rt now.
Clint, left out left side of Road Gold. I will try to take another pic because its wider than it shows.
Also the pic that show the flake, pillars and blob might be the best we are going to get because it shows really overgrown on Google earth.
The color one with the color coded route diagrams you have the blob(if that's what we are calling it) as antenna rock.
Can't wait for Fri
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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For the past couple years I've been working on getting the Forest Service to whack a trail in for us. I have a contact and good friend high up in the Forest Service. He said that it would have to get public approval and an environmental study would have to be done. I was also going to start collecting topos and put together a guide book so that there would be more foot traffic to keep the newly whacked trails (when/if they do clear them) maintained.
However, I've been busy with school. So I shelved the project for now.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Those are sweet Clint. Tks for your work. The bluff overview is correct.
Road Gold rt and left are connected walls and shape an 'L'. They are both located where you have Slab above road gold. The long traverse Paul did I believe is on the long band of rock just n/w of what you show antenna rock to be. Where you show road gold is several tiers with a trickling waterfall at the bottom one. Don't know if anything has been done there but I will take pics on Fri. Ihave no idea where antenna rock is but will keep an eye out. Maybe Paul or someone in the know can give us beta
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I shelved the project for now.
Good! No offense, but I think it's a bad idea to get the USFS involved in making climbers trails. The lack of a good trail is one of the barriers that has kept Patterson off the radar for so long. Many climbers cherish remote crags like Patterson Bluff just because of the challenge and to get away from the mainstream climbing circus...and those kinds of places are becoming very rare these days.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Our crags aren't much of a circus anyways. ;)
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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You have a point!
Good thing it's a long drive from here....or that crag would be grid bolted!
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