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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Ha-ha, Marlow, that was a GIFT! Thnx!
Whillans visited Denmark the year previous, and I climbed with him for a day in Sweden (why the f... didn't I bring a camera...?!). He had exactly the same clothes, EBs around his neck, rope around the waist. And climbed with smooth elegance (on routes somewhat easier than E1/Dovedale Groove).
Good to see, good to remember!
Michael
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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The original link seems to be broken. Here's the Brown / Whillans film for anyone that missed it.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jun 12, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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The really tragic thing is that Whillans last climb happened when he was only 52. A life of excesses led to his demise....a cautionary tale for all.
Several years ago, Joe Brown told me had discussions with Whillans about his physical condition, but didn't prevail apparently.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 14, 2015 - 12:18am PT
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Thanx,
The video was on then ???
I know you have got to love those two!
Increasing age as the human condition comes with it insults.
Add to that, the insults to the system of smoke and drink , diet & overall lack of conditioning,
abusing the body and mind, those insults cut down the most verbose first.
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overwatch
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 08:09am PT
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Thanks for replacing the link.
What an intersting film especially watching with the knowledge of Mr. Whillans coming demise.
I loved his quips, in particular, "so far so good said the man falling from the tenth floor" and "by the time I get there I will be climbing on me elbows". Good stuff.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Dec 24, 2017 - 10:08pm PT
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Saw this on Youtube and figured it had probably already been the subject of a Supertopo thread.
Indeed, it has.
Therefore, I bump this thread and recommend this video highly.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Dec 25, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
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I can't say I wasn't a little upset when I heard that deep cough Whillans had on the approach up from the road. You also get worried when he admits he doesn't really care about climbing hard anymore. His partying was of course legendary, but you just can't carry on the same way at 52 as you did at 36 or 26 and not expect to pay some heavy consequences. But Whillans sure got a heck of a lot done before the final curtain went down.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 25, 2017 - 06:11pm PT
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With a slow Christmas day & 3" of fresh snow outside today, I got my tasks done & watched the video for the 2nd time.
Significantly to me! Whillan's managed to follow the climb with some fun & joking & had a cig at the top. Classic Whillans.
My old man was a "work-a-holic," skinny as a rail, & didn't drink much, but smoked two-packs of unfiltered Camels a day. He "checked-out" suddenly at age 53 from a heart-attack.
Whillans had a lot more fun than my father did.
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